Clunk ..clunk

[bigjones]

That's a clunk when the car is started and a clunk when turned off. Sounds like it is generally coming from the steering wheel area.

I thought it might be that the dreaded thrust washers had lost interest but a quick check indicates they are OK (push clutch pedal in, insert crow bar between lower pulley and tubular cross memeber and try to push pulley backward - any sign of movement is sadness all round).

Those who have followed my misery know I've just replaced the starter motor - that R&R took 2 days so I really don't want to go through that again so I thought I'd ask. The replacement (from my 1275) was a bit stiff but a spray with some penetrating fluid freed it up nicely (the spring-loaded whuzzit that goes in and out).

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Cheers

 

[jlaird]

No lube on starter, just very very clean.

 

[bigjones]

Oh dear.

I did soak up most of the fluid with a paper towel.
Can't you think of something else? Ha!

That starter was an insane pig to remove and replace.

I'm thinking of jacking up the car on 4 jack stands this time - maybe I can get a better shot at that lower bolt - anyone does this on a 1500? Or does it need to go on a lift so that you are standing under it.

Thanks for the comment Jack. Better than engine trouble I suppose.

Cheers

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Clunk when you start the engine and clunk when you turn it off.
Unless the bendix drive is hanging up in the ring gear, and it may not last very long if it is, I would think more like an exhaust pipe banging against something.

When you start it, generally, the engine is rougher than running, and when you shut it off, you get delayed impulses from the cylinder compressions, and it's rough again.

Start it up (in neutral) brake on, open the bonnet, then pull the power lead off the coil to kill it.

Watch and listen carefully.

Re-connect, hit your remote starter, repeat until you isolate the clunk.

Just what I'd do.

Dave

 

[JPSmit]

I agree, starters don't tend to clunk, exhausts do, motor mounts do, loose things do.

And, yes, jack stands will help in the future

 

[lesingepsycho]

+1 for tailpipe

 

[Billm]

Just to be obnoxious- I always put oil on my starter bendex's and don't have any problem with them, i just clean and relube them every couple of years if/when the engine comes out anyway.
BillM

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Usually I find the rear main (or lack thereof) on LBC's keeps the bendix well lubed.

Dave

 

[Guest]

That tubular crossmemeber is you steering rack. Don't pry too hard.

One problem I had was I put my motor mount bolts back in backwards.( they go in from the bottom). I thought it was exhast as it sounded just like it. I checked and check but the exhast was fine.

As the mount sagged, the end of the bolt was hitting the other side of the mount under load on the pass side. I found it by leaning over on the carb.

( o.k, I found it by accident, but I found it!!!)

 

[spritenut]

For those who do not know, there is a rubber plug on the inside lower right footwell, remove it and you can get a wrench on the lower starter bolt.
I replace starter is about 5 minutes, it's not that tough.
No jacking it up, just undo 2 bolts, 1 wire and pull it out from the top.
This rubber plug also lets you bleed the clutch.

 

[bigjones]

Thanks for all the info.

Spritenut - I should have mentioned, this is a 1500 - no inspection holes.

I think Dave and JP have it - I yanked the tail pipe against the fuel tank and that sounds like the noise. You may have saved me trying to pull that starter out again and then walking around like the Hunchback of Notre Dame for two days.

However, I wedged a big chunk of kneel-on-mat between the exhaust muffler and gas tank but I'm still getting the noise on start-up and shut-down- I'll investigate more tomorrow with Dave's trick of pulling off the power lead to the coil and listening. Hopefully, I can get the wife to help turning the key.

Kellysguy - thanks for warning about that "crossmember"!

Cheers!

 

[bthompson]

this is a 1500 - no inspection holes.

At least, no inspection holes that actually let you <span style="font-style: italic">inspect </span>anything.

 

[Guest]

It could be anything connected to the motor. If you don't have the oil filter adapter on your car (like me) it might be hitting the steering shaft. ( that would be the bar connected to the round crossmemeber.)

Check where the pipe turns to go under the car.If you have the converter removed, the lip should be bent :hammer: to clear the pipe right where it turns to go towards the back of the car. It could be that stupid "I" bar transmission mount thing too. Let me know if you need a pick of what I'm talking about.

 

[bigjones]

( that would be the bar connected to the round crossmemeber.)

Too cruel! :laugh:

OK, the good wife helped me out this afternoon turning the engine on and off, with me looking at where the clunk may be coming from. No joy. It seems to have stopped making the clunk when the engine is turmed off. But even the wife thinks she hears it when turning the engine on.

I repositioned the exhaust so it is not touching the gas tank but there is still the clunk on start-up:

Any more ideas on how to narrow the search down? I'm sure it's not the exhaust - or the engine banging into the engine mounts.

 

[Guest]

Start and run the motor, push on carb and see if you can tilt motor some to make it clunk. Pull a plug wire off and that might make it clunk. Also, try letting the clutch out quickly to load the drivetrain and mounts more. Do that with all wires on. Rev it a bit more.

 

[bigjones]

Kellysguy,

Thanks for the suggestions.

"I" bar transmission mount thing - this car (1975) hasn't got one - don't know if the DPO removed it or not. Where does it connect to? Maybe I could fabricate one - Moss and VB do not show it.

Couldn't push carb but carefully got a big pry down by the engine mount and I could rock the engine about by say 1/4" with the engine running- no noise.

Tried the clutch in/out thing and also revving up the motor- no noise.

Doesn't have the converter.

It's still clunking on start up and it's back to clunking, sometimes, when engine turned off.

I disconnected the white lead to the coil (so the engine wouldn't start) and fired up the starter. Starter sounded good with no clunk - not sure what proves but hey.

 

[Guest]

Check the pipe that replaced the converter and see if it's hitting where it turns towards the back. Look under the car there. YOu'll need about a hlf inch or so. VB pg62 look by parts # 22,23,24 and it's the I shaped piece of metal. One branch of the I goes into the mount housing and the other end bolts to the tailshaft. Follow the piece of metal that bolts to the tailshaft forward and see if it is resting on the trans mount housing/cradle/crossmeber or whatever you want to call it. I was getting a noise/vibration from there. I took mine off, but tranny jumps around too much so I'm putting it back on. Which way are you engine mount bolts facing? Are they pointing up? If facing down they will cause a noise when the mount sags. How about your hood, hinges loose? Mine rattle a bit at idle. When you touch the back of the hood it stops.

 

[bgbassplyr]

Not trying to jinx your search for an exterior 'clunk', but if you can't find a cause, check the front crank pulley to be sure it's tight and that it hasn't broken the key or wallowed out the key way.

Water pump pulley? Not likely, but check it. Generator mounting bolts/bracket tight?

Might also be a loose (dare I suggest it), flywheel. I hate to think that, but it is something else to check. Trans in gear, brake off, engine off, try rocking the car back and forth and listen for the clunk.

Maybe a loose clutch cover. Is the clunk louder when starting with the clutch depressed? Just a thought.

Good luck!

 

[Deleted member 8987]

If you think it might be a pulley of blade, just remove the fanbelt.
Eliminates generator, generator pulley, water pump, water pump pulley, fan blade, and any side loads on crank pulley.

 

[Guest]

I wonder if the thrust washers are gone and the clunk is the crank?