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5 speed vs. 3.9 diff - either or both?

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Phase 1:
Engine and tranny out. After removing the 1275's back plate (to be replaced with the Datsun adapter plate), we discovered that one of the coolant system blanking ("core" or Welsh) plugs were seeping (though contained by the gasket)... so both of those will be replaced before proceeding. Also, in getting ready to replace the diff, one drum showed some oil leakage (so that will be resolved too). No real surprises yet.
work begins - 21Nov2016.jpg
rusty coolant blanking plugs - to be replaced.jpg
 
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Mark - no, no bunching and no pressure on the shifter such that it would be forced out of either fifth or reverse (mind you, the dang thing pops out of 3rd when decelerating so that's disappointing - the shop that rebuilt it also took it apart to check it out for a potential locking problem and didn't find any problems, and I just don't want to have to pull the durn engine/trans again, so will live with it for a year or three. Third has the most clearance of all the gears, so I can't imagine that's a problem).
Was over at Jeff's today (he was doing some welding/fabricating on the dune buggy) and he's got another, perfect, mold made for the cupola. DOug
 
Had a similar problem in first (only when on a hill and gunning it, and only very occasionally)... so my rib-case has some wear in there. All that'll be behind me with the 5 speed. Actually, I was wondering more about the boot being forced out from excessive bunching.
Hope to know if I'll try to get the fiberglass unit in a week or two.
 
From all I know, no one who has a 5 speed can use the original rubber "gaiter".. boot. Don't expect it to work. even with the mods i've done, it won't work.
 
Pythias said:
From all I know, no one who has a 5 speed can use the original rubber "gaiter".. boot. Don't expect it to work. even with the mods i've done, it won't work.
Click to expand...

Yes, understood. Thanks. I'll start with it, but also have a big Healey boot like Gary used (with his slightly cut-out can). That set-up works well.
 
We're using the standard BE rubber boot in Jeff's fibreglas lowered cupola. I pulled the boot out today when I fueled up (premium; add fuel stabilizer; tuck it away tomorrow until Spring) just to make sure that there was no impact on my third gear problems from the gaiter (and there isn't).
The gaiter stays in place in all gears (and has since we put in back in July); you can easily rotate the gaiter around when the shifter is in neutral, and there's no problem putting the gaiter back in place (I slip one edge over the edge of the cupola and then just rotate it and feed the rest of the gaiter into place). So the BE boot works just fine with Jeff's lowered cupola. Doug
 
Mark,

Please check your personal email for an urgent message.
 
Gerard said:
Mark, Please check your personal email for an urgent message.
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Hi Gerard:
I don't see anything... but do you mean through the LBC? Odd, we've exchanged emails fine up to now.
I'll try to see if something is in SPAM, or I'll send you an email.

Edit: don't see anything in SPAM and nothing in the private message system here.

The 3.9 diff is in and the core/freeze/Welsh plugs are supposed to come in today. Then, it's back to work on the wee beastie.
 
You don't seem to be getting incoming mail, so sending you a PM here.
 
Gerard said:
You don't seem to be getting incoming mail, so sending you a PM here.
Click to expand...

Received (through the LBC system). Odd... other emails seem to be coming through fine, and your previous emails have come through fine too (to my personal email address).
 
Phase 2 (not much due to waiting for the freeze/core/Welsh plugs to arrive - but they just did):
4.22 diff removed and replaced with the 3.9 diff... as well as new axle seals/O-rings.
The prop shaft has been fitted with the special U-joint that fits the Datsun 210 tranny. This U-joint is 1/2 English and 1/2 Japanese; guess which half was easy? :wink-new: Finally, the other end of the prop shaft (the diff end) has been fitted with the optional "spacer" that I purchased from Gerard.
Next step, after the core plugs are replaced (at the back of the engine), assembly of engine and tranny... then tranny bracket... then... in she goes.
3.9 diff and new axle seals.jpg
prop shaft U-joint adapter.jpg
prop shaft spacer.jpg
 
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Did you get the "Seal Kit" from Gerard? could be worth doing if you hadn't yet considered it. ? I would have mentioned it earlier, but it just ocured to me.
 
Decided not to. The rear end is very clean and I was advised that it wasn't necessary (at least now). Might regret it later, though trying to keep the costs down.
 
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Phase 3:
Freeze plugs replaced (and block flushed). Back-plate adapter on. Machined flywheel installed with clutch. Slave cylinder installed on special cradle. Tranny mounted to adapter. This goes back in the car on Monday... followed by serious fettling. I plan to install a clutch slave bleeder that will come up the fire-wall (all this on the other side of the engine than where it normally goes). [EDIT: skipped a special slave bleeder - there was enough room for regular bleeding.]
engine and tranny - 2Dec2016.jpg

P.S. - yes, we checked the clearance of the clutch to the bell-housing (where it was cut open and patched).
 
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Nice mod on the bell housing. We just bashed the battery shelf with a lump hammer on my car. Never see it, but I do like that you patched yours... Is that Tig welded?
 
Pythias said:
Nice mod on the bell housing. We just bashed the battery shelf with a lump hammer on my car. Never see it, but I do like that you patched yours... Is that Tig welded?
Click to expand...

I wanted to avoid bashing up the battery tray, so this should slip in well. Gerard actually produces a template for a cut-out that is smaller (though it wasn't available when this modification was done - back when Paul was alive). The cut was a bit more aggressive than needed, but the patch doesn't hit the clutch, so it works fine. No, not TIG-welded, though that would have been very nice. Most recommend just a sheet of thin aluminum held in with JB-Weld (which is what Gary did). Mine has rivets and JB-Weld for good measure. Of course, as you say, it won't be seen and doesn't do anything structural (well, nothing that's needed).
 
A few new pics... for the curious:
a) gear-reduction starter
b) clutch-slave with special cradle
c) tail end of 210 tranny with speedo-cable adapter and tranny mounting bracket (and painted iron receiver for shifter)
starter motor installed - gear reduction.jpg
clutch slave 2 - with cradle.jpg
tranny - shifter end, speedo adapter and mounting bracket.jpg
 
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Thanks Gerard. Yes, it's pretty far "disengaged" upon first install.
Do you have a recommendation for a starting (approximating) position? Half way along the threads or by feel?
 
Mark,
The Datsun specs show 1 to 2mm of freeplay. I have mine at about 1/8 inch or about in the middle of the rod.
Gary
 
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