1500 - water pump kaput

[JPSmit]

Seems to me I got the pulley off with two big screws drivers - on on either side. It's a friction fit and once it comes loose, it is pretty easy.

In terms of the nut, buy a Harbor Freight 3/4 inch socket set - it is about the price of three individual sockets, you will find a ton of uses (pinion seal/ drifts etc. etc) and it will impress the heck out of your friends

 

[Guest]

and it will impress the heck out of your friends

(sometimes .....you gotta just let a really good pitch cross the plate.)

 

[JPSmit]

and it will impress the heck out of your friends

(sometimes .....you gotta just let a really good pitch cross the plate.)

:thumbsup: :lol:

 

[bigjones]

OK, found this puller in my tool box and it worked pretty well:

So the fan clutch is off. The new water pump comes with the pulley already attached, btw. Just waiting on parts now.

Moving on to the front oil seal.

In order to raise the engine high enough to get a socket on that big nut, the exhaust system has to be disconnected at the manifold - is that correct?

Also, with the engine jacked up I'm not liking the idea now of wedging a breaker bar against the frame and hitting the starter button - or is that still an option?

Cheers!

 

[JPSmit]

Also, with the engine jacked up I'm not liking the idea now of wedging a breaker bar against the frame and hitting the starter button - or is that still an option?

Cheers!

That would make me very nervous!

Don't you have an impact driver or a friend with one? I got a 1/2in - 3/4" adapter and ran my socket on my air gun. (I know it is technically not the right use but of a quick spin it was fine)

 

[Guest]

Also, with the engine jacked up I'm not liking the idea now of wedging a breaker bar against the frame and hitting the starter button - or is that still an option?

Cheers!

That would make me very nervous!

Don't you have an impact driver or a friend with one? I got a 1/2in - 3/4" adapter and ran my socket on my air gun. (I know it is technically not the right use but of a quick spin it was fine)

As long as it's an impact adapter your fine. I pound the crap out of mine. It's a HF one and I've NEVER had any problems with it. My HF impact swivel gets tons of abuse too and it's 13-14 years old.

 

[bigjones]

Do you think this will cut the mustard?

On the premise that there are no stupid questions, here are some stupid questions:

When you use one of this things is the car in neutral?

That big crank nut is a "normal" one, righty-tighty, lefty-loosey?

Engine mounts - I assume Haynes means to undo the bolts holding the mounts to the engine. I only see one on the driver side (does double duty as a cover plate stud). On the carb side, I see one bolted into the engine block, directly over the dipstick, is there another one lurking around there?

Best to disconnect the exhaust from the manifold before raising the engine, right?

Cheers!

 

[JPSmit]

yes lefty loosey - so far as I know the only reverse thread on the car is the rear drivers side hub.

I did mine with the engine out - so would have been the same as neutral . the big thing you want to do here is break the torque tightness - once that is done it will spin right off.

there only the two mounts - others are at the transmission. You will likely also want to see how much slack there is in the ground strap - it might not let you lift high enough.

yes, disconnect at manifold is likely easiest.

and, yes, I suspect that compressor will be just fine

 

[bigjones]

JP,

Thanks for the answers.

Just one more thing:

What bolts exactly do you remove from the engine mounts, do you remember?

I'd like to get this right in my head before I start - I still want to play the piano after I'm done.

Cheers!

 

[Guest]

Do you think this will cut the mustard?
Cheers!

No, but it'll tighten the crap out of the jar lid. :wink:

Just kidding, that may ba o.k but you might have to let the compressor catch back up if it won't come right off. Oil the gun if it's not strong enough.

JP,

Thanks for the answers.

Just one more thing:

What bolts exactly do you remove from the engine mounts, do you remember?

I'd like to get this right in my head before I start - I still want to play the piano after I'm done.

Cheers!

There is a single bolt that holds the two sides (engine and frame) together. Pull out those bolts ( one per side.) They run perpendicular (sic?) to the crank centerline and are on about a 45 deg angle from the ground. You may have trouble seeing them but you'll know you found 'em when you do.

 

[Morris]

It's a lot easier to just un-bolt the steering rack from the frame and pull it forward. You don't have to completely remove it.

 

[bigjones]

Kellysguy,
This the one?

How did you get at the nut on the other side of that bolt, if you don't mind me asking. I thought I had a good selection of wrenches but nothing will fit in there - maybe I need to raise the engine a tad to clear the steering shaft.

Morris,
I was looking at that but isn't the rack also held in place by the splined rod coming out of the steering column?

Cheers!

PS. Morris, do you mean that if these 4 bolts are removed then the steering rack can somehow be moved enough to get at the crank nut? Man, that would be excellent.

 

[JPSmit]

Yes, that's the right nut - though frankly it's pretty simple down there so it really doesn't matter. Some might also suggest that you leave one on the engine and one on the car - easier to reinstall. Don't know about Morris' suggestion, but, it might make sense to take off the rack

All this being said - don't overthink it, trust me, it's not a hard job. BTW, when you replace the timing chain cover, you will need to hold the tensioner back. I seem to recall using a screwdriver from the other side, I also used gasket sealer

 

[Guest]

If you take the rack loose, don't forget to lossen the steering shaft too. it's just to the right of the right side arrows.

You get to the nut by jamming a wrench into the gap in the rubber of the mounts. Try it, you'll see what I'm talking about.

 

[Morris]

To move the rack out of the way:

1) Remove the pinch bolt that secures the steering shaft to the splined input shaft on the rack and use a long drift (I usually use a socket extension) and a small hammer to gently tap the shaft until it is free.
2) Remove the four bolts you have pictured and pull the rack forward. Sometimes this will be enough to get to the crank nut. If it isn't...
3) Remove the six bolts that secure the rack mounts to the frame and remove the rack mounts. You should then have more than enough room to move the rack out of your way.

I know this sounds like a lot of work, but it isn't. The whole thing can be done in under ten minutes and all the nuts are easy to get to... and it does not require messing with the exhaust... a job that is always painful in my book. Furthermore, your engine will be nice and secure while you are trying to remove that crank nut... which if you are removing it for the first time can be one heck of a job.

 

[Guest]

Man I hate that pinch bolt! I've always tapped a flat screw driver in the pinch slot to help spread it for easier removal.

 

[Morris]

Good point. I do that too.

 

[Guest]

Careful you don't bottom out the driver and beat up the shaft.

 

[bigjones]

Many thanks for the info folks.

Could not get at it today - had some errands to run but I did pick up the impact 1/2 to 3/4" adaptors from HF, ar, ar!
Cheers!

 

[Guest]

Many thanks for the info folks.

ar, ar!
Cheers!

You bought an AR too? Hope you got the 10 cause I doubt the 15 will get it off, even w/ SS109.