Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
After maybe 50 miles of driving with the 5 speed installed, I noticed a puddle of oil under the trans. I pulled the shift cover and found a small lake in my trans tunnel and the rear seal had spun itself out of the trans and was now on the prop shaft. Naturally I tried the easiest way to repair it by pushing it back in place, no surprise, it didn't work. I assume I can pull the prop shaft and try to re-seat a new seal. Do I just try and drive a new one in? I was thinking about using a dowel with an appropriate diameter an using the old seal in between the dowel and the new seal. I assume it goes in dry with no additional sealing compounds. Any suggestions from anyone with a similar experience appreciated.
-
The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
-
Hey there Guest!
If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
datsun 210 5 speed rear seal won't stay in trans.
- Thread starter 65sprite
- Start date
Share this page
The new seal I used was from NAPA. Black, I don't recall that it had a flange on it. I don]t recall that there was a "maybe it is this one, or that. I'm sure I brought the original with me to compare to the new one as is my standard practice when replacing parts. I believe it was fine for the first 49 or so miles, then just walked itself out for no apparent reason.
G
Guest
Guest
Guest
Offline
If it were mine I mihgt try aviation permatex (also called 300 IIRC) or 2a or 2b (whichever one doesn't harden)
I found the original install instructions from Mini Mania. The part # they specify is 11615cr, where they specifically remark that it is the same seal without the flange, "because in the Spridget tunnel it is already protected and un-necessary". I'm sure that is the part I got from NAPA, which does not have a flange. Seems silly to replace it with the flanged one, only to have to cut it off. I did use the recommended synthetic oil initially, then switched to standard 90 weight trans fluid because some folks said the synthetic was too slippery for the old gears and the standard period correct oil would be better. Could the synthetic oil have gotten past the seal and loosened the fit?
Gerard
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Absolutely not. I stock and supply factory Nissan seals (w/o flange) with my kits. They fit properly and have never had a complaint, regardless of the oil used. My guess is that whatever you got was not correct tolerance. A lot of aftermarket stuff is like that these days.
Gerard
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Last edited:
Thanks for the pic. Looks like its in the most inaccessible place it could be with the trans installed. It also looks very vulnerable to getting squished during install, so it makes sense that it could be the culprit. If it was squished on the install, is it ok to remove it by cutting it flush, rather than trying to repair while the trans is still mounted?
Gerard
Luke Skywalker
Offline
I'm not saying it's not possible, but I have personally never experienced an issue with this getting damaged during install, nor have I heard from anyone else that run into a problem with it. I have them them damaged by careless removal on a couple occasions though. They will snap/pop off, so more likely than it getting squished shut, is for it to just be broken off. The short length and bend make it pretty stiff to bend.
BlueMax
Jedi Warrior
Offline
It’s documented that the castor is preset through the arch of front cross member. The frame rails are manufactured from 18 gauge box tubing. The few cars left today have years of use, as well corrosion from inside of the frame rails. Unless your know what your looking for the engine/transmission angle may have change because the frame rails have started to straighten making the top of transmission closer than normal to the battery box, so damage may be possible. Who ever installed the rear seal would known without question whether the seal fits with the appropriate tension to hold in place. So these are the questions that have to be answered. Pressure inside the case, or the O/D of seal was incorrect and last I/D was too tight forcing the seal to spin in housing working its way out from the motion of the front yoke flange. I believe you will find the correct seal dimensions are 30x45x8
Similar threads
Similar threads
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
G
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Finding Datsun 210 transmissions or other obscure used components
- Started by twas_brillig
- Replies: 1
-
Searching for Datsun 210 Front Bellhousing from a Trashed 210
- Started by Jim_Gruber
- Replies: 10
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Wanted WTB - clutch fork and shifter from Datsun 5 speed #60
- Started by dmq400
- Replies: 0
-
-
-
-
-
-
A friendly reminder - be careful what links you click on here. If a link is posted by someone you don't know, or the URL looks fishy, DON'T CLICK. Spammers sometimes post links that lead to sites that can infect your computer, so be mindful what you click.