TR5/TR250 TR-250 Buyers Guide

Hey Guys
I may be in the running to purchase a TR-250. I just can't pass it up.
Any suggestions about what to look for when inspecting the car would be much appreciated.
Thanks much.
Pat

Pat,

I'd first check for frame rust in the area where the a-arms mount as that's something that could really drive the cost up for restoring any IRS TR. Wouldn't hurt to check for any damage or repairs around the lower front suspension mounts and rear differential mounts.

Oherwise it's the usual. Check for rust or rust repair in the rockers, floors, lower rear front fenders and rear fenders.

Scott

The mechanicals are all TR4A-TR6, so pretty easy to replace with new or used, check the engine for the dreaded crank float from worn out thrust washers, good advice on the rust already given, the badges are unique TR250, so expensive if missing or bad to do them all, the wheels, if not wires do they have the correct hubcaps in decent shape, if not you need to spend some money on either wire wheels, used TR250 hubcaps, or some sort of alloy or aftermarket wheel (unless your goal is a rat rod of some sort with steel wheels) None of these options are cheap. Interiors are expensive to do if you need seat covers, crash pads, interior panels and carpet, in fact in terms of raw dollars I spent the most on the interior by far (a considerable amount of sweat equity was invested in the rust repair, bodywork and mechanicals).

If you have more specific questions post them here, we will try to answer as best we can. Greg

Pat
I am now retired!
I can come and look at the 250 anytime. I am now in the process of putting My Wife'e 250 back together.
I do have a little knowledge on your restroation or get it running.

tinman58 said:

Pat
I am now retired!
I can come and look at the 250 anytime. I am now in the process of putting My Wife'e 250 back together.
I do have a little knowledge on your restroation or get it running.

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Hi Dan
Congrats on retirement. I am envious for sure.
I sent you a PM.
Pat

glemon said:

If you have more specific questions post them here, we will try to answer as best we can. Greg

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Thanks Greg. Very helpful
Hoping this is a rust free CA car. More details to come Friday!

Pat

Congrats Dan. You are far to young to be retired I am just tired!

First full week of retirement and getting ready to pull the TR3 engine out (oil leak) also starting on the rebuild of the 250 motor..................

tinman58 said:

First full week of retirement and getting ready to pull the TR3 engine out (oil leak) also starting on the rebuild of the 250 motor..................

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Hi Dan
I have a PhD in TR3 engine oil leaks. Let me know if I can help.
Pat

Pat,

When your wife kicks you out of the house just know that your TRs have a place to stay here in my barn in Woodland. FYI: got the tropical fan installed in the TR3A today without having to remove the apron. But you probably don't care about that having moved on to 6 cylinder cars. I am so jealous.

Mike

Pat
I have a new viton seal coming from Joe Alexander.
After reading your posts on your leaks..... I am wondering about the alum. plug at the back of the engine. I am heading to Oakland to drop off my work computer and phone today. (NO need for them any more).
I will start the removal of the engine tomorrow. Your knowledge of Triumph leaks will be apperciated.
Dan

tinman58 said:

Pat
I have a new viton seal coming from Joe Alexander.
After reading your posts on your leaks..... I am wondering about the alum. plug at the back of the engine. I am heading to Oakland to drop off my work computer and phone today. (NO need for them any more).
I will start the removal of the engine tomorrow. Your knowledge of Triumph leaks will be apperciated.
Dan

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The aluminum plug in the back of the block looked fine, but it leaked a lot . I assume that when my block was hot tanked, the sealing compound was at least partially removed. I would recommend that you replace this plug when you have the back of the engine exposed. I have an extra plug, if you want me to send to you Dan.

Pat