TR6 Winterizing my TR6

Well, it's that time of year. I've rented a secure storage area for the car since I can't get any builders to talk to me about building a garage. Apparently they are too busy to talk to me right now (hence the term "Independant Contractor"). They are Independant alright,....very Independant!
I figure I'll rent a place this winter, and try to contact some builders over the winter. They should have time to talk to me then /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Anyway,...about the car. I have fresh Antifreeze, a Recent oil change. I filled the gas tank, and added some "Stabil" fuel stabilizer. The car is indoors, under a car cover, with one of those buckets of stuff that absorbs moisture from the air and such. Unfortunatley the garage is not heated,...but it sure beats sitting outside!

Is there anything else I should do while the car is "Hibernating". I thought I'd go the garage on nice days,(if we get any) and fire it up and take it for a spin. I live in Maryland, so I'll have to be sure the roads are free of salt and such, from the snow and ice treatment.

Just wondering if there's anything else I should do.

Thanks
Tinky /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif

my advice would be to let it sit without running it, or turning it on, UNLESS you can give it a good hard drive with the engine at running temp for at least 20 minutes. To turn it on, let it idle, and think you're doing good....is a myth. It fosters more condensation, wear, and causes more problems than you can imagine by idling it in place to just warm up the engine. It has to be road driven at running temp. for at least 20 minutes, and preferably longer for any lubrication benefits to occur.
Just look at it and dream of driving it next spring.
When you go to run it next spring, pull the plugs, spray WD-40 in the cylinder holes, put in new plugs, change the oil and filter, AND the gas filter. That should be it.

Back when I lived in the frosty north I would take the car off the road for the winter without doing much more than you have. I would disconnect the battery though & a little pack of Decon in the corner of the unit might be a good idea too.

FWIW - I did not drive it at all during those months and found I could save a couple of bucks by dropping all insurance coverages except comprehensive. My agent was always very good about doing this for me... just be real sure you remember to reinstate before you drive it anywhere.

Never, ever forget the mouse posion!! There has never been a garage that was 100% rodent proof, therefore mice will check our LBC's out while winter goes on.There is no end to the damage they can do in a very short time!!
Geo didnt stress this enough for me, I put it in several spots in and around the vehicle, its cheap insurance.
MD(mad dog)

One more thing...either disconnect or remove the battery.

[ QUOTE ]
Never, ever forget the mouse posion!! There has never been a garage that was 100% rodent proof, therefore mice will check our LBC's out while winter goes on.There is no end to the damage they can do in a very short time!!
Geo didnt stress this enough for me, I put it in several spots in and around the vehicle, its cheap insurance.
MD(mad dog)

[/ QUOTE ]

the problem with mouse traps/poison...is that it attracts them and brings them in from outside. If they're already outside, I'd rather take a chance that they'd go elsewhere, than leave attractive goodies out to bring them in. Think about it, and make your own choice though. It would be totally different if you KNOW you have mice in your garage...then go all out and posion the crap out of them..otherwise you may be setting out a welcome mat.

Here's one of my columns from a year or two ago on this very subject. :

Proper preparation ensures vintage cars can sleep soundly during the winter

After the long, beautiful summer, the current onslaught of rain simply depresses me. I just got so darn used to driving my old cars almost daily. Even my daughter keeps asking me if the old cars are now “broken,” as we pass them by in favor of Mommy’s Oldsmobile. I explain to her the time has come to pack the less winter-friendly vintage rides away for the winter.

If you have show cars that would lose value if exposed to mud, or vehicles like my Triumph TR-3 offering all the winter weather protection of the 50-yard line at Green Bay’s Lambeau Field, you might decide to put them into hibernation from November until late March or April.

Sound Classics faithful will remember our springtime discussion regarding readying a classic for the summer driving season. Our expert for that column, mechanic Bret Swearingen of Madrona Autoworks, indicated good preparation in the fall eases the amount of time, effort and money it takes to drive safely and reliably in the warm weather months.

So the first step should be to thoroughly wash and wax the car’s exterior, as well as vacuum and dust the interior. Any contaminants left on exterior or interior surfaces will likely bond by the end of winter, meaning spots, stains and smells will be significantly harder to remove. Use paint cleaning clay to remove sap, tar, insects and bird droppings. I also like to drop a fabric softener sheet (like Bounce, or equivalent) under the seats to keep the interior smelling fresh.

For drop-tops and roadsters, store with convertible tops up or tonneau covers attached, or in March they’ll fit as well as a size two dress on Oprah.

Always store cars with a full tank of gas, because the lower the fuel level, the greater the chance of rust forming in the tank. Don’t skimp by filling-up with discount fuel. A friend of mine worked for years as a scientist in the fuel industry, and she explained to me that while different fuel brands are often sourced from one refinery, the detergent additive packages added by each company are very different. Texaco uses the best combination of additives to keep systems clean and the fuel itself from turning to varnish. Mobil and Exxon also utilize good additives. Discount brands sold at grocery store stations are the worst. In general, discounted rates are a result of skimping on additives. Wintertime urban oxygenated fuels also should be avoided, as this fuel can begin turning bad in as little as two weeks.

No matter what fuel you use, add some fuel stabilizer. The last time Jay Leno forgot to utilize fuel stabilizer during storage, fuel varnish clogged a valve in his Jaguar XK-120 causing a valve-to-piston collision (resulting in an expensive engine rebuild.) Now Leno never forgets to add Stab-il brand stabilizer, the smelly red liquid just about everyone I know uses to prevent fuel breakdown.

Next you should change the oil. Changing the oil for storage (and then changing it again coming out of storage,) prevents contaminants from bonding to engine internals. Nice new oil will protect engines from seizing. Similarly, make certain the vehicle’s cooling system is a good mix of antifreeze and water. Nothing ruins a cooling system more quickly than a mixture of too much water and not enough (or no) antifreeze. To prevent radiator rusting, ensure the fluid is to the fill line.

Batteries should be disconnected and removed to prevent electrical fires, as well as protect the quality of the battery from parasitic losses. Fully charge with a battery charger prior to storage, and attach a trickle charger like Battery Tender to maintain the quality of the battery during the cold months.

To save your tires from flat spots, use a floor jack to lift your car and place the vehicle on four secure jack-stands. Refer to your manual for appropriate jacking points. If you have children, you might consider roping-off the area to prevent anyone from playing around a lifted vehicle.

Finally, fit your vehicle with a soft, breathable cover. Make certain the car cover is clean, as dust on the cover will scratch your car’s paint when shifting during the winter.

By following these steps, you can be sure that when the sun emerges from its winter vacation, your classic will be ready to roll for another long warm cruising and show season.

Sam Barer runs Apex Features, an Olympia-based writing company. Submit questions or cars for profiles to soundclassics@apexstrategy.com[/i]

[ QUOTE ]
Never, ever forget the mouse posion!! There has never been a garage that was 100% rodent proof, therefore mice will check our LBC's out while winter goes on.There is no end to the damage they can do in a very short time!!
Geo didnt stress this enough for me, I put it in several spots in and around the vehicle, its cheap insurance.
MD(mad dog)

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gifYES!!! I can offer first hand experience regarding the damage those pesky little rodents can do over the winter!

My 2cents:

Having stored boats for 5-6 mos. in New England, one thing I have been told & tend to believe in is that storing a full tank is not necc. My understanding is that the breakdown in the octane is worse than the moisture as moisture can be yet to a minimum with stabilzer/dry gas. The thing is if you fill the tank with 90% new fuel in the spring the dead gas & any moisture will be diluted to a small percentage.

My Grady hold 90 gals & I usually leave less than 1/2 in with Stabil & have yet to have a problem One thing I do is to fill the tank with stabil & run the engine for 1/2 hour or so to circulate the stabil into the carbs. I actually have a disposable fuel filter I change, & pour some Stabil directly into it. Could do something similar with your LBC if you have a filter at the pump or an in-line filter.