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TR2/3/3A TR3A Vent

rlandrum

Jedi Trainee
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We're making good progress on the TR3A and ran into a snag with the Vent. We have the knob, the rod, the vent lid, and a spring, but don't see how the rod connects to the vent lid and suspect that we may be missing a piece.

Does anyone have a good picture of this assembly? It's our understanding that pulling the knob opens the vent. If that's the case, how exactly does the spring fit into the picture?
 

martx-5

Yoda
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It sounds like you're missing a piece or two. There's a pic in this thread that might help.

The piece you're missing is the fulcrum. It gets screwed to the front part of the valance where the two small holes are. If no one else posts a pic, I'm pretty sure I have a spare I can take a picture of when I get home later. You can see some of that piece in one of the pics in the thread I referred to.
 

TexasKnucklehead

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Here's some pictures of mine. Note the rod in my photo is actually a broken spoke from one of my 48" high-wheel bikes and has not been cut to length. The vent lid was on the car when I got it, but the linkage and springs were not. I still have no springs, but a ebay vent lid came with the linkage. I spent the better part of an afternoon in the garage getting it on the car and working, but do not remember exactly how it goes. And I took no pictures until this morning. This is one of those complex things you look at and think, -obviously it can only go one way...
 
OP
rlandrum

rlandrum

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That's perfect. I've just ordered the "Anchor, Fulcrum, and Fulcrum to Lid Connector Rod" from Triumph Rescue. Let's hope it's the right stuff... :smile:
 

newmexTR3

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On this same topic, anyone else have the issue of their vent not staying open on its own? When I open mine I have to stick something between the switch and the housing so that the vent lid doesn't just drop down. What is supposed to create the resistance for it to stay up?

Cheers,
Gavin
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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The funky spring missing from the photo above is what keeps it open. I forget the details offhand, but it creates an "over center" effect that pushes up when the lid is open, and down when it is closed.

The straight part of the spring gets clamped under the plates at the left above; then the ends go into the rusty holes on the right. Art posted some good photos of the installed spring :
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=5&Number=281328
 

Geo Hahn

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FWIW -- I found I had to slightly oval out the holes in the hinge to get some rearward adjustment to prevent the front of the lid from binding on the rear of the bonnet (couldn't adjust the bonnet any farther forward w/o a bind up front.

Not much of an oval, just a little bit, but made all the difference.
 

martx-5

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Geo Hahn said:
FWIW -- I found I had to slightly oval out the holes in the hinge to get some rearward adjustment to prevent the front of the lid from binding on the rear of the bonnet (couldn't adjust the bonnet any farther forward w/o a bind up front.

Not much of an oval, just a little bit, but made all the difference.

I had to do the same thing.
 

mrv8q

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martx-5 said:
Geo Hahn said:
FWIW -- I found I had to slightly oval out the holes in the hinge to get some rearward adjustment to prevent the front of the lid from binding on the rear of the bonnet (couldn't adjust the bonnet any farther forward w/o a bind up front.

Not much of an oval, just a little bit, but made all the difference.

I had to do the same thing.

I find if I push down on my vent lid with my hand, the rubber gasket compresses enough that the lid won't catch on the rear of the bonnet when I immediately open it. Paint's all scratched there, though!
 
OP
rlandrum

rlandrum

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I got the parts in the Mail friday and we got them cleaned and painted this saturday. I believe we may have goofed during installation. We assumed that we should leave the push rod loose until the lid was installed, then tighten it up. However, this doesn't seem possible. How do you determine the proper setting for rod prior to installing the vent lid?
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I left mine loose until the end. With the vent open, I could reach in and tighten the lock screw with a small "ignition" wrench.

Don't recall just why now, but my vent operating rod is also made from a SS bike spoke. The knob is mounted using a hexagonal standoff (originally for mounting PC boards), drilled and tapped for a setscrew that both locks the standoff to the rod, and the knob to the standoff.

I'm my own DPO !
 

prb51

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I've taken mine apart to replace the vent seal. I also tightened the small set nut once in place thru the opening using an ignition (tiny) wrench.
The pull knob is in the open position when securing the nut. It should be open 1 1/4" measured from the vent pull metal plate to the end of the convex knob. Actually mine is 1 1/4 and a hair.
This should allow the vent to be closed with the knob flush.
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Could be, but I've always heard [Darn] Previous Owner.

The present tense is DCO ...
 
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