Rebuilt Damper with fan eliminator kit

Brosky

Great Pumpkin

Offline

• Apr 25, 2008

• #1

I nearly lost this kit in all of the paper wrapping stuff that I was collecting. I had it in the box with the damper to be balanced along with the clutch and just found it last night when I was clear coating the damper.

I got this on ebay. Nice package and it fits great.

 

DrEntropy

Great Pumpkin

Platinum

Offline

• Apr 25, 2008

• #2

Paul said:

...found it last night when I was clear coting the damper.

Click to expand...

w00f. Ya gonna WAX it when you wash the car, too?!? :smirk:

Did you have a lot of model kits as a kid?


...meh. My ~green~ is showin'.

 

2wrench

Luke Skywalker

Offline

• Apr 25, 2008

• #3

Y-e-a-h, Doc, welcome to the club.

I just don't understand why Paul's damper looks
so good. Mine was supposed to have been done at the
same place. It sucks compared to his.

Paul, did you paint the white markings yourself?

 

G

Guest

Guest

Guest

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• Apr 25, 2008

• #4

That red does look good.
Hmmm...

 

BobbyD

Jedi Knight

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• Apr 25, 2008

• #5

Paul,
Is that Rick Patton's fan eliminator or has someone on eBay ripped off his design....right down to the two little indents on the back side of it? If it's not his, it's a perfect copy of the one he's been making and selling for about 3 or 4 years now.

 

OP

Brosky

Great Pumpkin

Offline

• Apr 25, 2008

• #6

It's Rick Patton's kit.

I painted the lines.

I had a LOT of model cars as a kid.

I have never really grown up.

 

Trick6

Jedi Hopeful

Offline

• Apr 25, 2008

• #7

Paul. The damper does look nice. Painting the lines white will help when setting the timing. I get ou the old white caulk and smudge it on and wipe it off which leaves the caulk in the grooves. Nice touch.

 

DNK

Great Pumpkin

Offline

• Apr 25, 2008

• #8

Gang, instead of the chalk trick you can also use gel pens,if you can find white,and do the same trick. Might stay longer. Try it on the dash knobs too.

 

T

tr6_easyrider

Jedi Hopeful

Offline

• Apr 25, 2008

• #9

Just a heads up Paul, When I installed Ricks Eliminator Kit,
it bottomed out on the crank, so the damper was loose. I discovered this, because I had to go back into the timing cover to replace the crank sleeve, do to an oil leak. He remachined the donut a few thousands and it was good to go.
Joe

 

OP

Brosky

Great Pumpkin

Offline

• Apr 25, 2008

• #10

Joe,

I'm dense today, so forgive the questions. What bottomed out? Was the big round spacer too thick? If so, the bolt would not go into the threads on the crank, right?

But from what you're saying, it bottomed out? Do you mean that the bolt bottoms out inside the crank, before it draws the big washer and damper down tight?

 

T

tr6_easyrider

Jedi Hopeful

Offline

• Apr 25, 2008

• #11

The center of the spacer that is machined, to slip over the end of the crank, made contact before contact with the damper, so the damper was floating free on the crank.
The bolt did not bottom out, the spacer was not machined deep enough over the end of the crank.
Is that a better picture?
I noticed he is now using a flat washer under the bolt, mine came with a lock washer.

 

OP

Brosky

Great Pumpkin

Offline

• Apr 25, 2008

• #12

Duh....now I got it.

I think that I'll be going down to do a trial fit on this assembly tomorrow.

Yes, the only washer that came with the kit is flat.

 

MTribe

Jedi Hopeful

Offline

• Apr 25, 2008

• #13

The damper looks great... sorry if I'm slow on the uptake, but is there a way to rebuild it? The rubber in mine was chipping away on the outside, but the core looked OK, so I decided to just keep it as is.

But haven't put it on yet... any advice appreciated! Thanks.


Steve

 

OP

Brosky

Great Pumpkin

Offline

• Apr 25, 2008

• #14

It must be done by a professional and these guys are the best, IMHO: https://www.damperdudes.net/

$115 with shipping back to RI.

EDIT Link to Damper Dudes above

 

2wrench

Luke Skywalker

Offline

• Apr 25, 2008

• #15

Contact Damper Dudes, Anderson, CA., (530) 365-2144.

 

MTribe

Jedi Hopeful

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• Apr 25, 2008

• #16

Oh, thanks Paul... that link goes to this thread. Is that intended?

 

sixer

Freshman Member

Offline

• Apr 25, 2008

• #17

Joe,

Rick Patton here. On your eliminator kit there were two issues. The first was that I didn't machine the pocket as deep as usual and the second is that the length of the nose of TR6 shafts vary a bit as they are cut to length with a saw. If you look at the end of most TR6 cranks you can see the saw marks. Since then I have deepened the pocket and as far as I know you have been the only one with that problem. Now they are all CNC cut so there are no variations. If there ever is a problem with a fan eliminator kit let me know and I'll gladly take care of it.

Rick Patton
75 TR6sci
https://pattonmachine.com/

 

T

tr6_easyrider

Jedi Hopeful

Offline

• Apr 26, 2008

• #18

Rick
I should have explained my problem better. How lucky can one be, to be the only one with this problem. Your kit saves a lot of time and effort. And it certainly dresses the front of the motor. And I would recommend your kit to anyone. Thanks for explaining what I should have .

 

davidk

Jedi Trainee

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• Apr 26, 2008

• #19

Hey Rick. Welcome to the forum.

 

DNK

Great Pumpkin

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• Apr 26, 2008

• #20

Rick- Glad to see you've come over to the dark side too