Windscreen Washer Motor

[Pete BN2]

The metal casing around the cable that moves the wipers is apparently bent because the cable inside is binding. I can have a new middle section made but the curved 8.5" section coming out of the motor is a PITA to install anyway. The question I have is do I need to have the cable run through the casing anyway? Is it needed to properly run the wipers or is it a safety issue?

 

[Randy Forbes]

I think it is more of a "keep the grease inside the conduit" issue.

Just don't wear white pants if you leave it out...

Actually, without the conduit's support, the push/pull action of the cable will have little effect on the wiper gearboxes. You need to keep the conduit intact.

 

[piman]

Hello Pete,
what do you mean by bent, is it kinked?
The wiper rack runs well enough with a normal large radius curve. It is very unusual to need to replace the rack outer. The wheel boxes get sloppy but the rest usually last for ever.
By the way, what has this question got to do with the windscreen washer motor?

Alec

[ 02-19-2004: Message edited by: piman ]</p>

 

[Pete BN2]

Randy,
Maybe I'm wrong but I'll soon find out. I'm hoping that the conduits only purpose is to hold the grease in and shield a moving part when the wiper is on. When you run the cable through the washer post, cover it, and screw it in, don't you think that would hold it?
BTW, what size and grip length did you end up using for the airframe bolts for the rear shocks?

 

[Pete BN2]

Piman,
The washer motor won't work if the cable inside the conduit is binding. I bench tested the motor w/o the cable and it works fine. I must have bent/kinked the conduit when taking it out of the car.

 

[Randy Forbes]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Pete BN2:
Randy,
Maybe I'm wrong but I'll soon find out. I'm hoping that the conduits only purpose is to hold the grease in and shield a moving part when the wiper is on. When you run the cable through the washer post, cover it, and screw it in, don't you think that would hold it?
BTW, what size and grip length did you end up using for the airframe bolts for the rear shocks?<hr></blockquote>

Pete,

That cable works on tension & compression. Where the radius is, you'll be opening up and closing that arc (radius of the cable) while imparting little movement at the wheelboxes. Bench run it (simulating the mounting positions) to see.

I have fitted tube shocks to my car so my fasteners would be way out of line with the original shocks. But that (the rear shocks on your car) is an excellent location to use the airframe bolts! They would be 3/8 x 24 x (thickness of shock mounting ear + thickness of mounting plate on chassis = "grip length"). Pegasus Racing (800 688 6946) has what you need. Order a few extra shims (washers) in case you need to fine tune the bolt's fit. Use high grade (all metal) "jetnut" locknuts and you'll never look back at them again!

 

[piman]

Hello Pete,
if it is kinked you must renew it. The wipers, as Randy points out, will not, repeat not, work without the outer guide. A simple check is to disconnect the rack (inner cable) from the motor and try to move the wiper arms. If all is well then you will be able to move the arms and see the rack move in and out at the end of the outer tube.

Alec

 

[Pete BN2]

Thanks Alec, I'll contact a shop that makes gas lines and have them make me up new ones with the proper flange at each end.