TR2/3/3A TR3A Scuttle/Windscreen Stanchion questions

[PaulLongBl]

As I understand from the www the tr3 had a few different changes to its windscreen mounting. My TR3A (TS66256) windscreen was bolted directly to the body scuttle and did not have any of the stanchion guides (I'm assuming this is original). However, the two sides of the mount area are not identical. The passenger side is rounded where as the drivers side seems to have been pressed. As I understand all the TR3s body scuttles were rounded and not pressed in. Would like to tap everyone's expertise on the difference as well as if it's not supposed to be what would be their best approach in removing pressed in area, using a dent puller, cutting out the area and beating it out and rewelding (limited welding expertise)? As you will see in the pictures both sides are different and you will also not the nutplate that fell out on the pressed in side.

Thanks

 

[CJD]

That's body damage...a dent! It's not a particularly easy one to repair, either, as the interior kick panel covers it. That nut plate is also not original. The original plate is spot welded to the inside of the scuttle so it does not come off when you remove the windscreen.

A typical body shop would drill holes, use a puller to get it close, and bondo it.

To do it right, you need to drill the spot welds on the interior kick panel, pull that panel back to access the back of your scuttle, and then work it out with a hammer and dolly.

 

[PaulLongBl]

Would it be safe to say that the passenger side nut plate which is welded in is also not original? I'm going off the info at this site https://www.revingtontr.com/product/804511/name/stanchion-lh-windscreen-tr3a

 

[CJD]

There should be a nut plate that is welded to the back side of the scuttle. That may be the plate in your pic,, but it should be attached. Your year does not get a stanchion plate on the outside. I'm not sure if that's what you're asking?

 

[PaulLongBl]

Yes. That provides me enough reassurance to continue without stanchions. Thank you.

 

[DavidApp]

My TR3 is TS75524 and came with these stanchions. The curvature of the lower plate matches the bodywork.

David

 

[CJD]

That's a configuration I hadn't seen before, David. It's using the newer screws with an older style stanchion and plate. Until you posted that I thought all the stanchions with plates used dzeus fasteners.

 

[martx-5]

Triumph did a lot of messing around with the windscreen stanchions back then. Here are four different style stanchions that I have run across. Sorta evolutionary. These four show at least three different castings. There may be others out there.

 

[DavidApp]

Hello John

There was a thread about this a while back and I notices a set similar to mine but tenon plates were screwer to the car. That made more sense if the idea is to help with easy removal and replacement of the screen.
As far as I know the set I got with the car were original to the car.

David

 

[TomMull]

That's body damage...a dent! It's not a particularly easy one to repair, either, as the interior kick panel covers it. That nut plate is also not original. The original plate is spot welded to the inside of the scuttle so it does not come off when you remove the windscreen.

A typical body shop would drill holes, use a puller to get it close, and bondo it.

To do it right, you need to drill the spot welds on the interior kick panel, pull that panel back to access the back of your scuttle, and then work it out with a hammer and dolly.

Stud guns have come down in price to the point where even I can afford one. This repair was designed for the tool. No holes, no hacking away the inner panel and very little bondo. It helps if you've done some panel beating previously but a couple of youtubes will get you going. Of course the body shop people use them too.
https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.c...P140463.aspx?gclid=COKHl4Cj89QCFcKPswodq1oLmg
FWIW, my TS73117 came without the stanchion guides, like yours.
Tom

 

[sp53]

I was not sure which way the windshield slid to come off, so my information is always philosophical, but anyways David when I look at your arrangement what I see is that someone took and older windshield and removed the Dzus screws from the frame and then got the screw for a newer body set up or perhaps some longer ones and took the slid plate set that in its recess and screwed the whole older windshield to a newer car.

I am just learning body work and it has been fun, and it is getting harder to find fun=== the older I get, so I am glad I took on the challenge, but anyways that dent on the driver-side is a tuffy, but doable. I had one just like it. John and Toms ways would both work fine. The problem is you are going to have a difficult time with access to that spot.

I have not tried a stud gun, but I see the theory and it looks good and would work well. On mine, I pealed back some of the inner panel which is also the whole end of body support and got in there with some bent homemade 18 inch iron bars and a big hammer and punch it out kinda caveman style. John’s way is the correct way and would give you the best outcome. If you are going to do your own body work, perhaps bang on something easier at first, but know that dent will come out just fine with varying technics.
Steve

 

[DavidApp]

My stanchions look similar to Art's first one except there is no counter-bore which could have been to secure the Dzus fastener. I have seen a photo in another thread here of a set that had a second set of holes countersunk in the tenon plate. Presumably to secure the tenon plate to the body.

I can see problems trying to mount the screen on the car without damaging the paint. Unless you mount the stanchions then install the screen in the attached stanchions. I thought the tenon plates were originally intended to make screen removal and replacement easy for racing or other sport events.

David

 

[DavidApp]

These are on e bay. Dzus type stanchons.

David

https://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-OEM-1...ash=item361c18f587:g:2VYAAOSwXXxZVAN7&vxp=mtr