white smoke question

[zimasprite]

Hey all,

My 68 sprite is puffing out white smoke from the exaust. Heavier at startup but continues when driving. I know it's typically a sign of head gasket leak/cracked block(basically water in the oil). The oil looks good though, not milky at all. It's also on the original tank of gas I got with it in February. I added some dry gas and a gallon or so from my gas canister. I would expect milky oil if head gasket/cracked block. Think this could just be water in the gas? Any other thoughts?

Also, when I say I've driven it, I have never driven for more than about 10 mins and just around my neighborhood at speeds under 35mph.

Thanks much - Drew

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Any bubbles in the radiator when idling?

Have you done a compression check yet?

 

[tosoutherncars]

If tests prove inconclusive... Process of elimination? Get it hot, change oil, flush coolant, drain as much gas as possible, fill with high-test and see if it persists?

If you're never getting it hot, you will have problems with condensate forming, which could certainly be the source of a little white smoke! Fingers crossed that's all it is...

 

[DrEntropy]

Get it up to temp, run it for at least 15 minutes (unless, of course you hear/see something amiss) and drive it a bit. Combo of old gas (even one month old gas is less-than good) and condensate in the exhaust system can cause it. If you're getting a distinctly more dense white-blue on initial start than after it runs a bit, you may be looking at worn valve guides/stems. Water in the oil or the other way 'round would be indicative of head gasket failure. As would inexplicable coolant loss. If it's coolant getting into the CChambers the exhaust will have a distinct "sweet" smell, too (assuming you have proper glycol mix).

 

[AweMan]

A head gasket can have a leak between cylinders and NOT contaminate the oil {So you would notice it anyway}
One way to check is, remove the spark plugs and have a look at the electrode ends. They all should be simular in color.
An engine in proper tune and good condition will have DRY grey to dark tan on all of the electrodes. If one electrode is cleaner, this can indicate a coolant leak in the cylinder that plug came out of. If two side by side plugs are cleaner than the rest. That indicates the head gasket is leaking between those two cylinders. Black sooty electrodes indicate a rich condition, Black wet sooty electoredes indicate oil blow by. {getting past the rings into the combustion chamber.} Light tan indicates a lean condition. Loss of coolant can be many things, to include leaking hoses, waterpump, radiator and a defective headgasket. Bubbles in the coolant can be pressure from the leaking headgasket, however bubles can also be created by a cavitating waterpump. Another good way to test for a leaking headgasket is a cooling system pressure test. If the cooling systen holds pressure consistantly, in all probability the headgasket is good. A leakdown compression test can indicate if a cylinder has a problem {diagnosis of the problem However would take further testing as in dry/wet compression testing} this tests the ring and valve condition.
Condensates in the exaust system can cause the smoke although these condensates should burn of rapidly, once the engine reaches normal operating temprature.
A cracked block, only if the crack is in the combustion chamber of the block, will leak coolant into the combustion chamber. The same goes for a cracked head.
I`v never seen water in the gas cause smoke, {Mainly the engine will run like crap if at all} low test, high test, or otherwise. An oil oil based fuel additive however could cause some smoking but one would assume there would have to be a pretty high additive to gas ratio. A Diesel fuel gas mixture could possibly cause some smoking also.
So in conclusion, draning and changing the old gas for fresh may not be a bad idea.
I hope this gives you some ideas of where and what to look for.
Kerry

 

[zimasprite]

I did a compression test and all cylinders were 145 to 165, so that seemed pretty good. Like I said, the oil looks good on the dipstick, but I still need to change it anyways. I'll get some gas for it and drive it a bit and see what happens. Hopefully it'll burn off and that's it. Never know though!

- Drew

 

[piman]

Hello Drew,

the other source of white smoke is a failed brake servo (if you have one?) and brake fluid is being drawn into the intake manifold and being burnt.

Alec

 

[zimasprite]

Just saw the post by Kerry. The gas is almost empty, so I'm going to fill up and hope to dilute whatever is in there with the new gas. Should I use high octane??? I'll also check the plugs, although they are only a few weeks old and have about 10 miles on them total.

Thanks - Drew

 

[AweMan]

Drew:
Plugs bieng that new probably arn`t going to give you much of an indication. Did it smoke with the old plugs?
Do you still have them? If so take a look at them.
High octane fuel would be my first choice. AND a good point by Alec, IF your car has a Vacume booster for the brakes a broken diaphram will deffinately cause smoke and brake fluid typicaly burns whithish too. Check your M.C. to see if there has been a brake fluid loss. AND you can temporarily unplug the vacume booster hose {plug the hose end going to the intake manifold off with a bolt or some such thing} then run the engine and see if the smoke presists. IF not then therein lays the culprit.

 

[DrEntropy]

Yup. Process of elimination. Best first step would be to get some premium octane gas run thru it. BTW: for some odd reason, premium doesn't degenerate to dinosaur pee as quickly as the lower grades seem to. <shrug>

I'd be stunned to learn of a brake booster on a '62 AH Sprite, BTW. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif

 

[zimasprite]

Well,

I have a 68 an it doesn't have a booster either. I also have a 62 I was going to start on a bit ago, but haven't really yet. Maybe my signature is wrong or something. Anyway, I was going to try and drive it some today. One thing led to another and I'm still working on it...go figure! I am putting in seat belts. The driver seat seems too far towards the door so I was going to reconfigure it...3 hour later I put it back how it was. 2nd time it blocked the E-brake. While I had the seats out thought I'd repaint the floors. YOu know how it is....I'll get to driving it someday!! haha. I must say, I bought this car for almost nothing and haven't spent too much on it and it's drivable now. FUN STUFF!!!
- Drew

 

[zimasprite]

Good news, yesterday I filled up with 5 gallons of high-test gasoline. When I started it up, it puffed a small burst of white smoke, then I drove it for about 20 mins.

Good news #1:
It didnt g0 over 200 degF this time since I put in a new thermostat and cleaned out the cooling system and soldered the upper mounting bracket back onto the radiator.

Good news #2:
The car actually drove for 20 minutes! The seat belts are in, the top is on

Good news #3:
By the time I got home I didn't see anymore white smoke. I waited 2 hours and started it up again....no smoke or smell to go along with it.

Good news #4:
There weren't any cops in my neighborhood since I have no plates of any sort yet.

Thanks for all of the advice...hopefully problem solved!

-Drew

 

[WALTER]

I believe over filling the dashpots can cause smoking also.

w

 

[Keoke]

I believe over filling the dashpots can cause smoking also.

w

--Yep,but only if they spit the excess all over the exhaust manifold.---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

 

[dklawson]

It's not uncommon for A-series engines to seep a little oil down the valve stems when parked. If you notice the car having the white startup smoke frequently in the future, remember to check for valve guide wear and to check the condition of the intake seals.

 

[zimasprite]

Well, I'm happy that smoke isn't billowing ou of the exhaust now. At the end of my driving for 20 mins it sounded like some mechanical groaning(like a more gutteral whirl) coming from the tranny tunnel/rear end of the car. I seemed to notice it esp in 4th gear. Not sureif it matters or if just lower RPMs are quieter. I haven't ever checked the rear-end for fluid etc..so, that's next on my list.


- Drew