TR4/4A TR4 Dashboard removal question

[MrAlex]

I am in the process of disassembly in removing my dashboard for cleanup and refinishing (metal - olde english white dash). I've got the steering wheel and plinth's off. Now it seems I might need to remove the steering column in order to remove the dash panel??. Any suggestions / hints on removal would be appreciated. I suspect I will get suggestions of bushing replacement while it's out as well. I see brackets under the dash but not sure what to do next. Thanks

 

[KVH]

It's easy to get carried away when the dash is out.

Yes, you need to remove the steering column. When you do, someone mean might ask why not: a)replace the bushings in the column; b)upgrade, fix or repair the wiring in the column, including the ground wires if worn; c)check the wiring on the turn signal switch; d) re-wrap any loose or damaged wiring under the dash; e) replace all old gauge, tack and speedo bulbs; f) replace the heater hoses; and
g)replace all dash pads, upper included.

I'm sure there's more.

It's all fun. Best of luck.

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi,

Yes, you need to remove those dash support brackets. You should find one wide flat one on the passenger's side, two on the driver's side (unless someone before you has removed some of them and never put them back). One of the brackets on the driver's side runs parallel with the upper steering column, the other runs diagonal up to a bolt on the firewall.

Remove all the gauges if you haven't already done so. Remove the lever that opens the fresh air vent. Remove the glove box door and the glove box itself. Remove the fresh air vents either end of the dash (carefully... it's easy to damage some of the old seals and hoses).

I like to use blue painter's tape to label all the wires, pipes, cables, etc. to make reassembly a little easier. Remove the center switch plinth and all the controls there. Be careful with the switch plinth, the type for use with the painted dash aren't being reproduced and are difficult to find in good condition. The earlier ones were fiberboard covered with vinyl. Later ones and replacements once offered through Triumph are molded plastic. (Later plinths and all modern reproductions are plastic, and are for use with wood fascia dashes, so aren't as deep and will have a big gap behind when fitted to the painted dash.)

Have you removed the heater? It's not mandatory to do so if only working on the dash, but makes access in there a bit easier and would need to come out if some other repairs are being done behind the dash.

Then there are two clamps that hold the outer steering column. One is at the firewall, the other is right behind the dash. There is "felt" inside these clamps, and one has a piece of spring steel. New "felt" is available, since the old originals are probably flattened and wasted away.

Before loosening those too much, remove the lower column in the engine compartment. There's an adjuster and such near the top that makes it easier (see manual). Also remove the switch plinths either side of the upper column, and the cover over the wires under the column. Disconnect and pull out the wires, then remove turn signal switch (and OD switch if you have one.)

Now the upper column can be removed the rest of the way from the two clamps behind the dash. The steering wheel can stay on, if you wish. You should be able to remove the inner/upper column and steering wheel first, then the outer/upper column.

Once it's stripped, the dash comes out pretty easily. If I recall, there are two bolts, one at either end. Then there are a series of large Phillips screws across the top that hold the dash to the body. Easy to get to all these, once the dash is stripped.

Yes, I agree, it's worthwhile to replace the bushings in the steeering column,unless it's just recently been done. They wear and now is the ideal time to replace them. The aluminum cap on the lower end of the upper steering column is also often damaged or worn, but easily and cheaply replaced.

Also, yes, it's a good idea to check over the condition of the wiring under there. The harness will be held in place by bendable tabs that are spot welded to the body. Those should have plastic over the metal tab, to keep from damaging the wires. (TRF sells it, but it's common wire cover material that's avail. from most any auto parts or electronics store).

While the dash is out, look very closely at the steering column support bracket welded to the firewall (right above the driver's knee). It's very common for this to crack and fail. While the dash is out is the best time to repair, if needed. Personally, even if it were in perfect condition I'd always weld in a reinforcment there while the steering column and dash are out. If that's not done, chances are it will eventually crack, usually right along the bends first. Reinforcement is simply an extra layer of steel welded onto it. Have a welder or welding shop do it, if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself.

While all this stuff is out is also a good time to repair any damage to the battery shelf.

Just so you know, the dash is "Spa White", when you go looking for paint. That color was used on the earlier TR4 exteriors, too (including my '62). Later cars (I'm guessing after CT20000 or so) changed to a slightly brighter "New White" for exterior paint, but the dashes were still painted "Spa White". They'd probably been made up in advance and stockpiled. By then most or all were being covered with wood fascia anyway, so it really didn't matter.

It's a big project, but a refinished dash sure looks great when done right!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[MrAlex]

Super... Thanks Alan.. this helps especially after looking at the manual. My TR4 is Spa White so I already have the paint. I'll also do the column bushings while it's out. I do remember reading some other posts a while back with some suggested methods. Thanks again. Lots of great info on this forum that has been very helpful to me and you always seem to be a great resourse on info and advice to everyone.