TR2/3/3A TR3A Gauge Cluster Wiring Question

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Hi Guys,

On the cold winter days when it is less than comfortable working in the garage even with a heater on, I am looking at some projects that I can do indoors. I have already refurbed all of the gauges as an example.

What I would like to do next is install all the small gauges (maybe with the exception of the temp gauge)and all the switches etc in the center pod and then wire it up and attach it to the new main harness that I have.

Does anyone that has btdt see any issues with this?

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Don't see a big problem, you will have to feed the harness thru the panel hole. Why not have the whole dash out and wire it up to every thing on the dash?

Marv

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Hi Marvin, yes that is what I am thinking as the whole dash is out at the moment. Just don't want to have one of those uh oh moments when you realize that what you have done won't work.

For example, I recall wiring in the new rear harness of my tr6. After I was done working from the far corner of the trunk back towards the front of the car, I realized that the plug on the end of the harness that mated with the main harness would not fit through the hole in the body where it was supposed to pass through....I should have started the other way around and fed the harness through the hole in the body first....

Cheers,
M Pied Lourd

 

[mgedit]

I just installed the dash itself without gauges, and it was a bit of a fiddle. I'm thinking that you don't gain much by adding the wiring harness to the gauges in advance, but not having btdt this is just a guess. Not sure how you would lay the harness in the car with it attached to the centre panel. Perhaps I'm missing something here in what you plan to do. I've installed the gauges and other bits (other than temp) in the centre panel as I like you wanted to see "progress". Here is a very good step by step someone was kind enough to offer on another list a couple of weeks ago when I was about to tackle the under-dash and dash installation. I'm only part-way through the steps. Perhaps others will find it useful a well. I certainly did.

"First step is steering column and loosely assemble the support brackets, then complete wiper set up, then the drain tube for the vent flap (If fitted) then the O/drive relay (again if fitted)

Next is the wiring loom just loosely laid in. then the main dash support brackets and the main heater unit then the oil pressure pipe. Next is main dash panel (Trimmed but nothing fitted to it .) and the demister pipes and tubes. Now you can finish bolting the column support brackets up.

Next thread the main wire for the vent flap through and fix to vent flap mechanism (Again if fitted) but do not attach the knob yet.

Feed the centre instrument part of the loom through the centre hole in the dash panel ready to wire the centre switch panel up. Fit the switches to the centre panel and the ammeter and fuel gauge then wire these to the loom along with the ignition light and indicator light and dash bulbs with the centre panel just sitting on the bottom of its aperture in the main panel but leaning out to allow access to the rear. (Fiddly job but there is never much length on the looms to allow you to have it very far out). Then carefully thread the water temp capillary through the centre panel and round the left side of the heater and then through the bulkhead into the engine bay, fit the gauge to the panel.

Fit the oil pressure gauge and choke cable into the centre panel and then bring the panel nearly up into place and fit the oil pressure pipe to the back of the gauge not forgetting the leather washer.

Feed the choke cable through the bulkhead Then fit the centre gauge panel into place with the 4 wing nuts not forgetting to attach the earth cables and being careful of the temperature gauge capillary and the choke cable fouling the heater matrix.

Now fit the cable to the fan rheostat and fit to dash panel and then fit the O/drive switch.

Next fit Speedo and Rev counter not forgetting the panel light bulbs and main beam warning light and the earth leads to the mounting screws.

Then fit the glove box buffer bracket and the stay bracket. Now fit the glove box lid and stay and lastly the glove box and support bracket. Lastly fit the dash top roll and the vent flap knob and lift the dot fasteners (later cars) or Tenax studs (early cars)

Thats a bit of a rough guide but always be careful wiring the early type screw connector switches especially repro ones as the screws are sometimes sharp enough to cut through the end of the cable if over tightened.

As an addendum to the above list, Tr2/3 weren't fitted with screen washer system when new so when fitting the wiper system its best to fit the washers at the same time as they are now required for MOT tests (in UK)."

Cheers, Mike

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Thanks Mike

Cheers,
Tush

 

[CJD]

I was going to reply earlier, but glad I waited as Mike covered it all. I think the time you spend hooking up the dash early would be way offset by the trouble trying to run the harness with it attached to the dash.

My 10 year old son and I hooked up the wiring in about an hour to the center cluster. The harness, though, requires a lot of intricate twists and tucks that would be hard with the dash in your way.

You can still place everything in the cluster and attach all the lights and short ground wires ahead of time...

Stay warm!

John

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Thanks John,

Thats what I needed to know. Sound like there is little gained so I will continue with the body work! Gotta get out the long johns...

Cheers,
David

 

[Tinkerman]

MP, I hooked the wiring harness and the dash cluster up outside of the body of the car. It was way easier than standing on your head under the dash and trying to do it. I repeat WAY easier! I then fed the complete harnes through the cluster hole in the dash, got the harness wires all spotted out then put put the dash cluster. Right now Im having some bit of trouble with the speedo and tach so I really can't imagine what it would be like trying to wire the cluster up with it in the dash. Having said all of that I went back and re-read what Mike sent you. Much of it very valuable info. Had I to it all over I would still pre-wire the cluster and go from there. Of course I'm not as agile as I used to be, heh.
By the way I do have pictures of the back of the dash cluster if you need some.

Any How, Good Luck, Dick