CJD
Yoda
Offline
Bill, you are correct...assuming you assembled the engine by the book, and the timing mark on the pulley lines up with the marker, then there are 2 possible ways to have the engine when the marks align. One is correct, with both valves completely closed...and the other is NOT correct, where the valves for the #1 are "rocking" between open and closed. For your static timing, the engine rotates CW from the front, so you want the mark on the pulley left of the pointer by about 3/8" to set the timing with the engine off.
For your second....there are 2 types of lights you can use. If you are using a strobe, then hook it up with power to the battery...and the pickup clipped around the #1 high tension plug wire. If you have a 20+ year old strobe, you will have to pull the #1 plug wire and insert the pick-up wire in line with the plug wire.
The second type of timing light...is just an electrical test light. For this one, it is not designed to take the thousands of volts in the high tension side...so it goes on the low tension side of the distributor. One side of the simple light goes to the Negative on the battery (assuming you are still positively grounded). The second side will clip to the wire coming out of the distributor...and it can be on the coil.
When you are turning the distributor, you are seeing the flash for 2 different cylinders. You want the one where the rotor is towards the #1 spark plug, and the vacuum advance is pointing almost straight forward. Again, this is assuming you assembled the engine by the book...and the rotor points to the #1 plug at TDC.
So...set the pointer 3/8" left of the mark, with both valves closed.
Then, turn the distributor in the direction of rotation (arrow) shown on the rotor, slightly past where the vacuumm advance mechanism is pointed forward. Then slowly turn the distributor the opposite direction until the strobe flashes or test light goes out. That's your spot to tighten the distributor at about 3 degrees before TDC.
Realize that using this method the rotor never moves...the distributor is moving around the stationary rotor. With the strobe, the cap has to be on the distributor. With the simple test light, the cap can be off.
For your second....there are 2 types of lights you can use. If you are using a strobe, then hook it up with power to the battery...and the pickup clipped around the #1 high tension plug wire. If you have a 20+ year old strobe, you will have to pull the #1 plug wire and insert the pick-up wire in line with the plug wire.
The second type of timing light...is just an electrical test light. For this one, it is not designed to take the thousands of volts in the high tension side...so it goes on the low tension side of the distributor. One side of the simple light goes to the Negative on the battery (assuming you are still positively grounded). The second side will clip to the wire coming out of the distributor...and it can be on the coil.
When you are turning the distributor, you are seeing the flash for 2 different cylinders. You want the one where the rotor is towards the #1 spark plug, and the vacuum advance is pointing almost straight forward. Again, this is assuming you assembled the engine by the book...and the rotor points to the #1 plug at TDC.
So...set the pointer 3/8" left of the mark, with both valves closed.
Then, turn the distributor in the direction of rotation (arrow) shown on the rotor, slightly past where the vacuumm advance mechanism is pointed forward. Then slowly turn the distributor the opposite direction until the strobe flashes or test light goes out. That's your spot to tighten the distributor at about 3 degrees before TDC.
Realize that using this method the rotor never moves...the distributor is moving around the stationary rotor. With the strobe, the cap has to be on the distributor. With the simple test light, the cap can be off.
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