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Kolecki
Freshman Member
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I would say I have been pulling my hair out over a simple (?) TR 3-4 engine issue, but since I haven't had a full head of hair since 1975, I won't go there.
I have rebuilt perhaps 15 TR 3,4 and 4As over the past 30 years but only recently got back into body off frame full restorations in my retirement. It's a time consuming but worthwhile challenge made easier with access to the British Motorheads out there. Most often I had taken running cars and rebuilt everything but in the past 2 years I acquired a 1964 TR4 which sat in the CA desert for 35 years- no rusty body or frame issues but also no interior and everything was sandblasted and baked due to the lack of a good storage choice. Then I purchased a 1961 TR 3A that was a spare parts car from a collector here in Florida- It needed everything and was very rusty.
All that being said when it comes to replacing flood pand, fender sections etc, I am fine. And having been a mechanic since the 1960's (not todays' replacement technicians) usually the engines are so basic that I can work miracles.
Except for the initial set up of the timing marks and position of the Cam and crank gears/chain.
I have the original Triumph Spare Parts Catalogue and Workshop manuals by The Standard Triumph Motor Company ( even a TR 2 Service Instruction Manual for supplement for the TR3, Tuning Your British Sports Car by Charles Williams and after an exhaustive on line search I have Tony Drews website
Is there a timing set up for Dummies for these simplistic engines with pix or videos? I have a total of 5 TR 3-4 engines all basically rebuilt from the ground up waiting for this final critical set up.. I have become frustrated that after I thought I had it correct on 2 different engines, when I tried starting them backfires thru carbs.. So I tried to read the information more carefully and what should be simple is not. You don't line up the teeth/marks on the cam with the teeth/marks on the crank to come up with a perfect match or close enough that you can get the engine running.
These engines all have new liners, pistons, wrist pins, rings Fresh machined Crank and new bearings, oil pump cam bearings, re machined heads with all new valves, springs guides and hardened seats where needed.
At a total loss. Thanx for any leads or help from someone knowledgeable.
Ron Kolecki
Merritt Island, FL 32953
cell 321-408-1462
I have rebuilt perhaps 15 TR 3,4 and 4As over the past 30 years but only recently got back into body off frame full restorations in my retirement. It's a time consuming but worthwhile challenge made easier with access to the British Motorheads out there. Most often I had taken running cars and rebuilt everything but in the past 2 years I acquired a 1964 TR4 which sat in the CA desert for 35 years- no rusty body or frame issues but also no interior and everything was sandblasted and baked due to the lack of a good storage choice. Then I purchased a 1961 TR 3A that was a spare parts car from a collector here in Florida- It needed everything and was very rusty.
All that being said when it comes to replacing flood pand, fender sections etc, I am fine. And having been a mechanic since the 1960's (not todays' replacement technicians) usually the engines are so basic that I can work miracles.
Except for the initial set up of the timing marks and position of the Cam and crank gears/chain.
I have the original Triumph Spare Parts Catalogue and Workshop manuals by The Standard Triumph Motor Company ( even a TR 2 Service Instruction Manual for supplement for the TR3, Tuning Your British Sports Car by Charles Williams and after an exhaustive on line search I have Tony Drews website
Is there a timing set up for Dummies for these simplistic engines with pix or videos? I have a total of 5 TR 3-4 engines all basically rebuilt from the ground up waiting for this final critical set up.. I have become frustrated that after I thought I had it correct on 2 different engines, when I tried starting them backfires thru carbs.. So I tried to read the information more carefully and what should be simple is not. You don't line up the teeth/marks on the cam with the teeth/marks on the crank to come up with a perfect match or close enough that you can get the engine running.
These engines all have new liners, pistons, wrist pins, rings Fresh machined Crank and new bearings, oil pump cam bearings, re machined heads with all new valves, springs guides and hardened seats where needed.
At a total loss. Thanx for any leads or help from someone knowledgeable.
Ron Kolecki
Merritt Island, FL 32953
cell 321-408-1462
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