Starting the New Engine

[DougF]

I was attempting to break in the cam this evening after having a starter problem and a leaking radiator hose.
Everything was going very well(except for the miscellaneous stuff burning off) until about 10-15 minutes into the break in, the motor stalled(not an issue). Antifreeze erupted immediately from the overflow tube and sent me running for cover. I'm hoping it was an air pocket in the system. After a short cool down, I restarted the motor and things heated up quickly again, but no eruption.
The temp gauge is reading normal.
Any thoughts of what it might be other than air?
I'm going to replace the thermostat tomorrow.
There is no oil/antifreeze mixing anywhere.

 

[poolboy]

Might be a good idea to fill the cooling system without a T-stat and with the heater valve open. Then idle without the radiator cap, watching the water pump work and coolant level.

 

[mrv8q]

Meanwhile, check the T-stat in a pot of boiling water?

 

[DougF]

Thanks for the responses. I'm going to work on it some more this evening and hope to get everything sorted out. Getting itchy to see if it runs as well as it sounds. I have a couple Triumph Road trips coming up that will help with the break in.

 

[bgbassplyr]

There is a little gizmo that came on my parts car, spliced into the heater hose between the spigot and the heater, which allows a water hose to be plugged in to fill the heater and the block and force the air towards the radiator.

Or, it can be opened to allow the air to exit from the highest point of the cooling system.

 

[poolboy]

That sounds like part of the Prestone cooling system flush kit.

 

[DougF]

Things aren't working out. I have to re-torque the head and see if there is any improvement. Next step is a new head gasket. Unfortunately, I didn't have a 12 pt. socket in the bag, so no torquing tonight.
Sure want to finish this thing by the weekend.

 

[DrEntropy]

eeep. So it's running but ya think with a head gasket leak? There is a 'gizmo' to detect combustion gasses in the coolant, try HF/AZ, etc. or go ask Jim.
Sounds like you've got your hands full. :frown:

 

[TR3driver]

Or, any radiator shop should be able to perform the test for you, for substantially less than the cost of the tool.
https://blockchek.com/

But from your description above, I'm wondering if you are just overfilling the radiator. There needs to be a couple of inches of air space left when filling, otherwise you will get coolant expelled during hot soak (the period right after the engine shuts down, when the iron is still conducting heat into the coolant but the coolant is not circulating).

 

[DougF]

Thanks. I'll have to try to get the car out to our local meat smoke house/radiator shop once I'm road worthy.
Some of the best beefstick you'll ever find....and they do good rad work too.

 

[hondo402000]

never heard of leaving a couple of inches of space in the radiator, anything that gets expelled goes in the over flow bottle. isnt that what its for, and when the coolant cools down a pulls a slight vacuum in the radiator it pulls coolant back in from the over flow bottle

 

[hondo402000]

and also when you fill up your system with antifreeze the first time you need to leave the thermostat out fill up the radiator and then pour coolant in thru the thermostat housing and when the head is full put the thermostat back in and button it all up that way you will know its full. if your head is not full and the thermostat is not touching coolant it will not open and you wont get circulaton of coolant and Boil over and and warped heads will happen'


I know BTDT

 

[DougF]

The system has been back filled. I'm hoping it isn't a head gasket, and pulling the head is the very last option. I will be back at it either tonight or tomorrow.
The temperatures across the head vary from 170-173. I was getting reading from 130-165 from the radiator, and 190 from the top of the water pump. The gauge was reading normal.

 

[TR3driver]

never heard of leaving a couple of inches of space in the radiator, anything that gets expelled goes in the over flow bottle. isnt that what its for,

I could be mistaken, but I thought this was his 1960 TR3A, which didn't have an overflow bottle from the factory. Of course, if someone has added one, that would change things.

 

[Don_R]

Back in my friends shop I used to put a 1/8" hole in the thermostat to help vent any trapped air.

Before that was the old asprin trick, use an asprin tablet to hold the thermostat open to get any air out.

 

[DougF]

The TR3A is waiting in the wing and I will resume with it as soon as I get the TR6 running properly.
Sorry I didn't ID which one I'm working on.
Fortunately, the 3 needs very little....I hope.

 

[DougF]

YEEEEHAWWWW!!!! Finally, things are sorting out. Cooling system is acting normal. Didn't really do anything this evening that should have made a difference, but it doesn't matter.
Just need to change the oil and hook a couple things up and it get the OD adjusted.
Should be ready Saturday for an actual test drive.

 

[DougF]

Thought everything was good, the cooling system was acting normal and my world was wonderful. Calm before the storm.
I put a new thermostat back in, torqued the head, adjusted the valves, and changed the oil and thought I'd be driving very soon. Looking like it's a new head gasket. Need a new heater valve too...must have been enough pressure to spring a leak in it.

 

[poolboy]

I just have to ask. Is there a possibility that the T-stat is in upside down ?

 

[deadair]

I haven't been following this thread closely, so forgive me if this is has already been mentioned. Are you using a stock fan?

If so, then you're experiencing what happened to me decades ago when I first started by rebuilt engine in my ground-up restored TR3A. The only difference is that my temp gauge was accurately reading a high temperature. Are you sure your gauge is accurate?

I tried, on and off, over the last 25 years to sort out the problem and finally found the solution: An electric fan. Before now, I resisted doing anything non-original to the car at the cost of years of enjoyment.

If you have any doubt about your temp gauge, I suggest investing in an Infrared Thermometer to check your engine's hot and cold spots.