TR5/TR250 Starting a TR250 that's been sitting for 10 years

[angelfj1]

My TR250 has been sitting in an unheated garage for nearly 10 years. I would appreciate recommendations for getting it ready for the road this summer.

Thanks, Frank

 

[Popeye]

Nice car!

In terms of getting it roadworthy, I would think you need to go through all the systems, one by one: brakes, fuel, spark, clutch, oil, ...

Flush and replace all fluids. Check flexible hoses for cracks. Check rubber bits in the suspension for the same. Tires probably need replacing after 10 years.

Is motor frozen? Was it put away "wet", or properly stored for the long term? (E.g. squirting oil into cylinders, draining fuel, etc.)?

It might be best to reach out to your local Triumph club. Offer a few cold brews and brats, and have someone look it over.

 

[LarryK]

1. Clean fuel line from tank to carbs.
2. Check condition of tune.
3. Check brake and hydralic lines, renew fluids.
4. Lube chassis
5.Renew all oils and fluids.
6.Renew coolants and belts.
7. Start
8. Clean car thoroughly.
9. Recheck fluids, and Restart
10. Drive slowly around block
11. If all seems well, wax and drive more.

 

[poolboy]

Don't be surprised if the carbs overflow or flood the engine combustion chambers....the float chamber needle valves might be stuck open...
If it happens, I can post a non-evasive procedure that might clear things up...Just let us know.

 

[NutmegCT]

One of the best guides, written by a former BCF member Tony Barnhill (RIP).

Awakening a Sleeping MGB.

 

[LarryK]

Tony was thorough, mine is short, but you get the drift

 

[glemon]

All good advice above, I have found when my TR250 sits too long the clutch sticks--the other stuff, fluids and hoses first, but be careful first time you try to start it--if you are in gear and the clutch is stuck it will roll forward on the starter.

 

[Old Guy]

I have always pulled the spark plugs and put oil in the cylinders on top of the pistons and rings. I am a bit of a worrier and want to make sure I have good lubrication before I turn the engine over and eventually have oil pressure. Over the years, I have used different lubricants like Marvel Mystery Oil or a penetrating oil followed by regular motor oil. Everything mentioned is good and again very thorough.

 

[DrEntropy]

Marvel Mystery Oil is "The Elixer of Life" for the job.

 

[LarryK]

Uncle Tony proved that wrong, white vinegar or weezel pee (1/2 trans fluid, 1/2 acetone), working for me now in my GT6 that sat for 42 yrs. Someone on this site suggested it years age, has worked for me since. Tony had it as 1st, wp 2nd as it took less to free up rings and actually took off the rust. An addition, my brother in law being an A&P engineer used Marvel Mystery Oil in his Opel GT for oil and only changed the filter and added more MMO, survived 190,000 miles until the suspension rusted off.

 

[DrEntropy]

weezel pee (1/2 trans fluid, 1/2 acetone), working for me now in my GT6 that sat for 42 yrs. Someone on this site suggested it years age, has worked for me since.

It was likely me who originally suggested the weasel pi$$ back then. The Marvel has plenty of lubricity and Frank is in eastern PA where humidity is likely less a problem. If it sits for a bit, it should be about as effective, methinks. It was a "do no harm" first suggestion.

 

[LarryK]

Very true Doc. Never tried Marvel, but do like how the weazel p ignites with heat.

 

[DrEntropy]

Very true Doc. Never tried Marvel, but do like how the weazel p ignites with heat.

I will admit Marvel makes more smoke than fire!