Radiator Pin Hole Leaks

[RJS]

Happy Memorial Day! I hope everyone is having a great weekend.

I must say I am so disappointed. After all that time straightening radiator fins (5 hours with a mini screw driver straighten each bent fin), re-soldering the side frame to the bottom, repainting (the rad and fan look like works of art)...I put it all back together yesterday only to discover I have 2, maybe 3, new pin hole leaks in the radiator now.

This is the original rad which appears to have had some soldering repairs in the past.
-I am very reluctant to use any "magic" radiator stop leak
-I doubt this is something I can repair myself with a soldering iron (correct me if I a wrong)

I did locate a radiator shop on the web in the next town which advertises they work on vintage, hot rod and custom radiators.

I can pull the whole radiator out in about 30 minutes now that I have done it. It just means more time off the road and expense (hopefully nominal though). I am hopeful they can repair it for less than $150. Is that realistic?

Thoughts? What are my options?

Thanks

Bob
PS: I fixed the fan mounting. After owning the car for ~9 years, I realized the previous owner had mounted the rad fan backwards. The pitch in the blades was still correct but, the curve in the blade was facing the wrong way. So, while the fan still pulled air, I am pretty sure it now pulls much more air than before!

 

[DaveGT6]

Good morning RJS.
The last rad I took to the shop was just checked over (pressure test) cleaned & painted. The bill was about $35. This was 2 years ago. It's been over 20 years since I had one with the same issues you have, a few small holes. Someone else will have to help out with what to expect for repair costs. It shouldn't add too much to the bottom line.
Dave

 

[dklawson]

Back in the day they would R&R a radiator for about $50 but no one seems to want to do that kind of work anymore. Every time I have talked to a radiator shop on the phone they leap right towards "replace" or "re-core".

I understand your reluctance to run a "leak stop" product. However, if the shop tells you it will cost more than you are willing to pay for them to repair the pin holes, consider running one treatments of Bars Leak Liquid Copper. That has sodium silicate (water glass) in it which will plug the leaks. Once the leaks are plugged, drain the system and replace with your regular anti-freeze. That will plug the leaks and then remove the coating/plugging material from the system before it can cause any detrimental build-ups.

 

[3798j]

About 10 years ago the radiator shop re-cored (everything new between the top and bottom) the TR4A's radiator. Cost back then - $185.

 

[TR3driver]

If the core can be saved, then the cost should be well under $150. Unfortunately, they corrode from the inside out, so it may be that yours is too thin to be repaired even though the leaks are small. As I recall, my recore was closer to $300 last year.

 

[Geo Hahn]

My recent re-core was over $400. Will vary by shop but in my case was as much as a new Asian readitor would have been (did the re-core of original anyway).

 

[tr8todd]

I gave up trying to have the TR8 rads recored because it just got too darn expensive. Last one was $350. Now I buy and modify new aluminum ones from Summit. I can pick up a 26X16X3 inch rad with the same size and location outlets for $180. You need to spend an hour or two modifying the mounts to fit into the radiator brackets, and also have to add a third outlet that goes to the overflow tank. The stock rad barely works with a stock engine let alone a modified one. The 3" think aluminum one will cool a race engine on the hottest day.

 

[martx-5]

... After all that time straightening radiator fins (5 hours with a mini screw driver straighten each bent fin)...

BTW, just as a reference, they make radiator combs for just this job. The Harbor Freight one doesn't look that great, but there are others out there that are of higher quality. Our Triumph club has one.

 

[RJS]

Thanks all,

I'll call the rad shop tomorrow. But, won't be able to drop it off until Friday morning. Hopefully some simple soldering. If not, I would opt for a full copper recor made by a shop here over a new rad made overseas.

In the meantime I'd still welcome thoughts, ideas, advice from others.

Bob

 

[tr8todd]

For the record, the $180 aluminum rads I buy are sold by Summit and are made by Griffin Radiators. Griffin is an American company in S.C. that specializes in aluminum racing radiators.

https://www.griffinrad.com/expansion/

 

[RJS]

Thanks,

I'll.check those out. Wizard Radiators makes an aluminum rad just for the TR4A but it.is. about $450

Bob

 

[TFB]

I went with the aluminum Wizard,but have since seen ebay radiators,including alum,in the 300 range,and both Moss and TRF seem to have some pretty good sales,like TRF's 20% right now.
To me what is "unrealistic" is thinking of getting some more years out of a 50+ year old radiator.I think they are a little like tires.Even though they may look good,the chances of a really old one not causing any problems are slim.
Tom

 

[RJS]

Hey All,

Follow-up report with good news. I have waited two weeks to report this because I really did not believe it myself but... my two little pinhole leaks have cured themselves. After my last post above on 5/28/12, later that day I idled the engine in the driveway. I wanted to get the engine to full temp and further investigate the exact location of those pinhole leaks (as I would be calling the radiator shop the next day). Guess what, after the first 5 minutes the leaks stopped. I idled for about 25 minutes. Engine got to 185 degrees and for the last 5 minutes it was up to about 195 degrees. I blotted up the spots and no leaks returned.

In disbelief, I shut it down and let it cool for two hours. I inspected every 20 minutes or so expecting the leaks to return but, bone dry. So, I repeated the exercise, full temp, no leaks.

Still in disbelief, I parked the car in the garage and inspected it every night after work...no leaks. Last weekend I took it for a 30 minute drive up the road, staying close to home. No leaks. So, final test was this morning. One hour drive at 60 mph on the parkway...no leaks.

I'll be the first to recognize the radiator may have issues. But, for all I know it's had issues the last 12 years. And rather than throw money at it, I'll simply keep a close eye on it and see if I can get another 12 years!

Bob

 

[bobhustead]

Couldn't hurt at this point to carry a tube of AlumaSeal.It's better at clogging small holes than the misccellaneous engine gunk doing it now. Have it in hand when the dam bursts next.
Bob

 

[DougF]

Couldn't hurt at this point to carry a tube of AlumaSeal.It's better at clogging small holes than the misccellaneous engine gunk doing it now. Have it in hand when the dam bursts next.
Bob

Agree

 

[Geo Hahn]

Follow-up report with good news... my two little pinhole leaks have cured themselves...

I see in your other post that you changed the coolant and thus eliminated the Water Wetter. In my experience, Water Wetter will sometimes reveal small leaks that do not appear with just coolant+water.

X3 on the Alumaseal -- I always have some in the boot (which I have used to help others several times).

 

[TR3driver]

Ordinary anti-freeze contains a very mild stop-leak additive, so it may be that rather than "miscellaneous engine gunk" that plugged the pin holes.

I agree about carrying a tube of Aluma-seal (I've used it many times myself). But I also suspect it may have been a factor in the overheating problems I was having with the TR3 last year. The radiator shop said the tubes were lined with "mud", which may have been at least partially Aluma-seal (mixed with "engine gunk"). I had been using Aluma-seal to keep the usual crack around the base of the header tank sealed.

 

[RJS]

Very curious. Not sure really how it happened. It's the original radiator which was serviced about 12 years ago. I've been running it the past two years with Water Wetter.

I pulled the rad after this last flush since I had to do some work on the engine fan. With the rad out, I used the opportunity to straighten some fins and repaint. This is when the leak started. Perhaps in all that handling I disturbed some old brazing or soldering.

Anyway, good for now. If it leaks again, I'd rather not use any "stop leak". I'll pull the thing (takes about 30 minutes) and take it to a radiator shop.

RJS