Radiator Heater Core

[RestoreThemAll]

I'm working through the heat/air components. I was inspecting the heater core and noticed that one side had pulled away at the weld. See pics. The tubes, tanks, and fins seem OK. I'm guessing that there was expansion at some point but I don't see any other evidence. Can this unit be repaired or would it be better to get a new one? Are the new units good quality? That's always a fun question.

 

[Griz]

Dale, I would expect that a local radiator shop could check it out and make needed repairs. I had both my the heater core and radiator checked out here in town and fortunately for me they were good. I do have a leak in my heater, but it's in the flow control valve which I tried to refurbish myself. Looks like I'll be ordering a new one.

Griz

 

[RestoreThemAll]

Griz, I live in the middle of no place. Radiator shop is 2 hrs away. What did they charge to check yours out? Were there issues to be corrected?

 

[Griz]

It was a year or two ago and I don't remember now what I paid, but since I didn't need much done (they just "boiled" out the radiator and pressure tested it and the heater core) it couldn't have been more than a couple hours worth of work, so probably less than $100.

Griz

 

[steveg]

My radiator shop told me new cores aren't available. Yours looks pretty good. Boil it out and pressure test and it'll be fine. Or you could buy a pressure tester online and rig up a way to pressure test it yourself.

I have a Stant cooling system tester and it shows 10 psi as the test point for a 7 lb system. Pump up a spare tire with 10 lbs and hook it up with one of those "equalizing" hoses. There's probably info or YouTube videos telling DIY folk how to clean their own radiator with Drano or some such.

 

[gonzo]

Detached top and bottom plates are fairly common with age. They're just brazed on. From the pic the top plate appears to be in good condition and not pulled away from the tanks. This is good news since it's the attachment point to the heater box. The bottom plate is not "structural" so it should not be too much of a concern.

My core was not leaking but the top and bottom plates were beginning to detach, so JB Weld fixed that. Quick tip: A thin film of silicon / dialectric grease helps to ease the radiator hoses through firewall grommets. Home Depot has a good assortment of rubber grommets for heater box and firewall (check electrical isle for the packet). GONZO

 

[RestoreThemAll]

I'll pressure test to make sure that there's no leaks.

Gonzo, my plate is pulled away some and won't be pushed back into place. Did you use and strapping or other reinforcement with the JB weld?

Water based lubricant also works for rubber on rubber. A parts store manager once suggested that I use KY and I really thought that he was teasing me. He wasn't. It works well, and the wife wasn't as embarrassed as me to buy it.

 

[Keoke]

New cores are available at most rradiator shops, they are upgraded and include more tubes and serpentine fins cooling is improved by ~25 to 30 %.

If your tanks are good have it recored.


OPP's That for Radiators

 

[MisterB]

I had the local radiator shop (they do ag/industrial stuff but have gotten used to me and my "odd stuff") clean and test the core on the '52 chevy heater and it was 20-30 bucks. They even pick up and deliver on their route.
I'm also a believer on the KY type lubricant. WM even has a generic. Works great when you're putting spark plug wires together too.
Mike Burgess
Albert, KS

 

[gonzo]

Assuming the heater core is not leaking, a radiator shop is unavailable and /or you're uncomfortable with brazing, then strap the side plates and apply JB Weld to seam(s). Let cure for at least 24 hrs.

The radiator shop that did mine forgot to braze the plates - repair guy had the flu - but no worries JB Weld, or similar, is perfect for this.

Regarding lubes, a waterbased one will be used when the upgraded fresh air tubes / ducting is installed. GONZO

 

[RestoreThemAll]

Just to wrap this up. I did a pressure test; 10# of air pressure with the core submerged in water. Bubbles came from the seam where the hose neck comes out of the tank. I was also getting a very occasional bubble from a seam on the tank. I compared one tank to the other using a caliper. The tank on the side where the plate attaches and was pulled away by about 3/16" is just about 3/16" larger. I believe that the unit was over heated or frozen at some point. The tank expanded like a balloon but did not deflate all the way. Even though the tubes and fins look fine and the tank might be brazed I still don't trust the unit. It's a potential problem that I don't want to worry about on a trip.

I ordered a new heater core/radiator from AH Spares. I've been pleasantly surprise by the prices. Their web page shows # or USD. The USD displayed is higher and never correct. The final invoice is very close to the #! My budget manager is very pleased. Though flowers may still be a good idea

 

[Griz]

Budget managers always seem to appreciate flowers!

 

[Bob_Spidell]

... I've been pleasantly surprise by the prices ...

Yep. 'Brexit' did us Yanks a big favor. I recently made a large purchase in GB and the exchange rate probably saved me a couple hundred bucks. Doesn't hurt here to admit what a codger I am, but I remember when the pound was worth north of $4.