Painting engine block

[Norton47]

I thought I saw where Paul or someone had painted their engine block with POR-15. If someone has, do you top coat it with regular paint?
I have some POR-15 left over from the floor boards and a clean long block. I am thinking of painting it with POR-15, but don't want it going ugly over time, it's not really exposed to direct UV under the hood but???
Suggestions?
Thanks

 

[Brosky]

I had mine painted with POR15 engine paint a few years ago. This requires a great deal of cleaning and prep and is most difficult in the car.

https://www.74tr6.com/enginrestoration.htm

When I did the head, I used a Dupli-Color High Heat Ceramic Red that requires a triple coat within one hour and several days of curing before use. That is what i will probably do with my block when I get it back from the machine shop in the spring.

https://www.74tr6.com/cylinderhead.htm

 

[71MKIV]

Por 15 also makes a high heat engine paint that is supposed to topcoat over the por 15 base coat.

remember anytime you paint,

the cleaner the surface, the longer the paint sticks.

Steve Spangler
71 MKIV "Jehu"
Lancaster PA

"never trust a weatherman with no window in his cubicle"

 

[Brosky]

I did use POR15 High Temp Engine Paint. I like the look of the Ceramic better and that head will be going on the rebuilt block, so it will match better.

 

[Norton47]

So, using POR-15 regular as a base would be all right and then overcoat it.
I see that the POR-15 web site rate regular POR-15 to 700 deg F for adhesion. So, I think that's what I will do.
I have some some hi temp black that I can overcoat it with.

 

[BOXoROCKS]

...a tip your guys might try,if it is bare cast iron,go over it with a propane torch. You will be surprised at the humidity that comes out of the surface.

 

[Brosky]

Yeah, cast iron always seems cold and damp anyhow. Makes sense, unless it's hot and wet, like from oil or antifreeze leaks.....gee, I wonder where those could be on and LBC???

 

[Bugeye58]

All this high temp and ceramic paint talk has me baffled. Just how hot do you expect these things run??
Here are some temps I did to answer a question last summer.
Jeff

<span style="color: #000099">Here are the readings I just took with a contact themocouple, rather than infrared.
1275, at operating temp, idling after a 10 mile drive.
All temps in Fahrenheit, surface temps only.

Top of head at thermostat housing: 163.1*
#2 stud at intake/exhaust manifold: 186.3*
Exterior of exhaust manifold: Front: 289.0*
Center: 290.1*
Rear: 287.0*
Intake Manifold flanges: Front: 163.2*
Rear: 167.4*
Head at rear exhaust manifold mating flange: 220.8*
Head at #3 plug: 158.8*</span>

 

[tomshobby]

Jeff, that is great information. I have often wondered about that. Thanks!

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]All this high temp and ceramic paint talk has me baffled. [/QUOTE]

Jeff,

All I wanted was a nice color of red. I could care less (technically) what kind of paint it is, as long as it doesn't peel. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif

 

[Bugeye58]

Paul & Tom:
I took those temps in response to a members question regarding his using gasket sealer that was rated to 400*F temps. He was surprised, as I think he expected to see readings that were <u>much</u> higher.
I just use regular engine enamel, as it's impervious to fuel and oil, my major concern.
The race engines are painted with standard Eastwood wrinkle finish black.
After all, these are water cooled, and don't really get all that hot.
Jeff

 

[Norton47]

Jeff
Thanks, I was kinda figuring that water boils at 212 deg F so the engine shouldn't run much hotter than that.
My thinking was that the regular POR-15 would adhere well to the block as it still had some rust when it came out of the caustic soda tank. I have cleaned it with solvent, then Marine cleaner and have now used the Metal Ready.
This led to a bit of the white residue powder, which I have wire brushed off with a brass tooth brush.
I am going to give it a coat of POR-15 rust preventative paint and then top coat it, with a Black. I have some POR-15 black exhaust paint but that sounds like over kill for sure.

I think I will get some of the POR-15 self-etching primer and then top coat it.

 

[martx-5]

The race engines are painted with standard Eastwood wrinkle finish black.
Jeff

Any particular reason for using wrinkle finish paint of the race engines??

 

[Bugeye58]

Not really, just a signature thing. My only point in mentioning it was that no high temp paint was used.
Jeff

 

[prb51]

I've done a block with POR15 and it stayed put. I didn't really clean the block really well either and it still adhered.
You'll have no sun/fade issue it still looked shiny a few years later but has since been sold.

 

[Norton47]

prb51
Just curious how many is a few?
Cool, I really didn't want to do the scuff or more work for the etching primer and a top coat. If it will stay shiny for a few years that's ok for me now.

 

[prb51]

I suspect it still looks good. After painting I had it 3 years, maybe a bit more and it looked as newly painted.
I didn't use anything but the POR glossy black paint, I just tried to remove as much oil/dirt as poss and had at it.

 

[Tinkerman]

My wife often accuses me of over engineering, unfortunatly she's right more often than not. I also go back to some advise I got many years ago, something to the idea of "keep it simple, make it fun", or "keep it simple stupid".
Having said all that I would just like to add two things. I have been painting engine blocks for years with black paint I bought off the hardware store shelf. Never had a problem. Much of what I read about our beloved TR's is that parts were dipped in tanks of "whatever cheap black paint they had in the shop". Can't attest to that though, but it makes sense to me.

My thoughts, Tinkerman

 

[TR3driver]

...a tip your guys might try,if it is bare cast iron,go over it with a propane torch. You will be surprised at the humidity that comes out of the surface.

Of course, a lot of that humidity comes from the torch as well. I do the same thing myself, but IMO it's more to drive out any oil or solvent that is hiding. The initial fog left by the torch flame gives a nice indication of when the surface is warm enough (since the water no longer condenses on it). Works on mild steel, too.

 

[Tomster]

Is the main block not supposed to be green? (as is my 4A)