Orange Peel Removal ???

[TR4]

The PO painted my TR4 and there was Orange Peel on the Drivers side rear fender that has always bothered me. I finally took 2000 grit paper to it and got rid of the Orange Peel but I have not yet been able to bring the luster up to match the rest of the car. I have been using polishing compound with an electric car polisher and then waxing it. I can live with it as is but I am hoping this forum can help bring back the luster. You only notice the difference in luster if you catch it in the right light.

The car never has had a clear coating applied, only paint. I am unsure what type of paint was used. The previous owner can't remember.

 

[Tinkerman]

I just sent you a PM

Tinkerman

 

[martx-5]

After I painted and color sanded my car, I buffed it using 3M foam buffing pads. I used the waffle pattern type. They come in various sizes and are very effective. Just be careful you don't burn through the paint.

 

[hondo402000]

If tinkerman didnt help you out I think there are several polishing steps to go thru to get that high shine

Hondo

 

[TR4nut]

Meguiar's. Nuf said!

 

[TR6oldtimer]

I hand sand with 1500 then 2000 grit paper going in one direction. I have a variable speed 8" angle polisher. Using Mequiar's, I hit it with a compounding pad, which will bring up a shine, then a polishing pad to bring out more of the shine, then a foam finishing pad, all the while taking care to keep the work area and pads clean. Care also needs to be taken to have the pads rotate off edges. For smaller areas I use a set of 3 inch pads on a variable speed drill.

On old finishings, I would start with a clay bar then the sanding.

With the modern single stage urethane paints, you can get a mirror finish, with older acrylic enamels, you can get a shine, which some prefer.

 

[TFR]

Just curious what type of paint was used on the car? Two stage, one stage, three stage, lacquer?
Just so you know the longer the paint is on the car the harder it is to polish out the scratches. Clear, if used, gets harder by the day until it is too hard to buff to a nice scratch free shine. It might be better to repaint the dull areas.

 

[TR4]

I have no idea what type paint was used and the previous owner can't remember what was used. He really has been no help when I ask about the car's history.

 

[TR4]

I just sent you a PM

Tinkerman

Thanks Tinkerman, received and appreciated greatly !!!

 

[TRED]

Find someone that does buffing for a living and have it done. My buddy did mine and it looks awesome, he does cars for about $100.

 

[trfourtune]

don't just do the one quarter panel, do the whole side of the car. Like sanding, it often takes a series of buffing from coarser to finer to wax.
R

 

[TR4]

don't just do the one quarter panel, do the whole side of the car. Like sanding, it often takes a series of buffing from coarser to finer to wax.
R

I have realized I will need to go all the way to the front of the car. It will take quite a while but it should come out of hibernation next spring looking real nice.

 

[Andrew Mace]

Find someone that does buffing for a living and have it done. My buddy did mine and it looks awesome, he does cars for about $100.

Good idea. However, for what it's worth, make sure they understand what kind of paint is on the cars. There are lots of detail shops around, and many of them employ young and talented people ... who have no idea about anything except modern clear-coat finishes.

This came up just this past weekend, as my son and I negotiated the purchase, from a local used car dealer/carwash/detailer outfit, of a 1981 Subaru GL with original paint. We were discussing the car with the salesperson, who volunteered that it was his dad (owner of the place) who ended up buffing and polishing the car, since he was the only one with experience with the older paints and the right buffer mitts and chemicals to use!

 

[trfourtune]

I'm told that Dupont Imron can be really difficult,but do-able.
R

 

[Geo Hahn]

...Using Mequiar's, I hit it with a compounding pad, which will bring up a shine, then a polishing pad to bring out more of the shine, then a foam finishing pad...

Can you (or someone) mention what specific Meguiars products would be used in these steps? Thanks.

 

[TR4nut]

Geo-

Not sure if this is any good, but it worked for me:

Wet sand with 2000 grit to clean up repair area
Buff with Meguiar's medium cut cleaner
polish with Meguiar's swirl remover
Optional finish with Meguiar's show car glaze - probably could just use a favorite wax at this point.

There are most likely a lot of other options, but with these I was able to blend in a repair on a crunched fender lip on my TR4.

Randy

 

[glemon]

One question which is key is the type of paint, know you said you don't have the answer, but some types of paint will not sand and buff well if at all, I don't think old style enamel will at all (new urethane enamels do).

Had a freind in the same boat recently, car was modern urethane enamel, basecoat/clearcoat, he could not get the shine back by hand and had to invest in the Harbor Freight variable speed polisher, I still think he could have done it by hand by using progressively finer polishing comppounds, but anyway the power polisher did the trick for him.

 

[TR4]

Geo-

Not sure if this is any good, but it worked for me:

Wet sand with 2000 grit to clean up repair area
Buff with Meguiar's medium cut cleaner
polish with Meguiar's swirl remover
Optional finish with Meguiar's show car glaze - probably could just use a favorite wax at this point.

Randy

Well, I took Randy's suggestion and the sheen is certainly coming back (Thanks Randy). I believe I need to hit the spot that had orange peel just a little more with the sandpaper to completely remove it since you can still barely notice it in the right light. Of coarse, I will be very careful not to cut through the paint, then I'll need to do the rest of this side since the rear fender is now looking better than the front of the car.

Thanks so much to everyone for sharing your expertise and advice.

Phil