TR2/3/3A Steering wheel hub removal

[Redoakboo]

I blew a fuse installing a replacement windshield wiper system. I have replaced the fuses but now the horn and directional lights don't work? I would like to remove the steerig wheel hub to check for any burn't wire connections. If you remove the three screws in the hub, will it come off to do a visual inspection of the wire connections?I dropped the dash but could not find any burn't wires. Dick Vinal

 

[CJD]

You will likely have to straighten the wires where they exit the stator tube at the steering gear. The wires must be able to feed in there in order to pull the trafficator outward. It often takes 2 people, on to push wires in while the other pulls the trafficator...if it's been a long time since the wires have been moved.

Also, it would be too much of a coincidence to have the trafficator short when the fuse blew. I think your trouble will be a connection to the trafficator wiring behind the left horn on the inner wing.

 

[Redoakboo]

Thanks John, will look at it tomorrow. Would this knock out the directional lights too?

 

[CJD]

It's impossible to say until you find the problem. Both the horn and signal wires go through the steering stator tube down and out the steering gear. From there, they go up to the batch of connectors just behind the left horn...and that's where they connect to the main harness. I can't remember the car you have (sorry-short memory?!?), but on all the later cars the wiper motor is just forward of this area. I am thinking there is a chance a connector or two in that area got pulled. The horn and signals should each be on a separate fuse, but they travel similar routes, since they end up at the trafficator together. When I diagnose my electrical system, I always start with the areas I was working on. It's so easy to knock the bullet connectors apart with an elbow or such.

 

[Redoakboo]

It's impossible to say until you find the problem. Both the horn and signal wires go through the steering stator tube down and out the steering gear. From there, they go up to the batch of connectors just behind the left horn...and that's where they connect to the main harness. I can't remember the car you have (sorry-short memory?!?), but on all the later cars the wiper motor is just forward of this area. I am thinking there is a chance a connector or two in that area got pulled. The horn and signals should each be on a separate fuse, but they travel similar routes, since they end up at the trafficator together. When I diagnose my electrical system, I always start with the areas I was working on. It's so easy to knock the bullet connectors apart with an elbow or such.

John, it's a 54 TR-2. I did not use the WSWiper wires as the kit I bought wired from other connectors. The green wires for the old WSW are just coiled up connecting to nothing. It is so strange as the horn and signals lights worked fine. When I disconnected the wiper system, multiple wires on a white plastic plug, after the left fuse blew, horn a dir. lights stopped working. I replaced the fuse, they still did not work?
The replacement WSW system I had to use the old systems cable and blade studs. They kept jamming until they finally blew the left fuse.

Right now I am waiting for the new system I bought on Ebay. In the picture it appears to use the same white wire plug I had on the replacement system so, I am hoping I can just plug the two white plugs together?This weekend I am going to inspect the connecting wires that are attached to the stator wires for a burn't connection. Dick

 

[CJD]

If it's all aftermarket I'm afraid I won't be much help. I just find it unlikely the trafficator wiring could be affected by the fuse problem. The horn wire is made to go to ground, so all a short in the horn wire would do is make the horn honk. Then, the chance of 2 out of the other 3 signal wires grounding in the trafficator is just difficult to understand. The horn and signal wires end up over by the fuse block that you were working on. It just seems most likely the issue would be there.

Is there a reason you are thinking trafficator?

 

[Redoakboo]

If it's all aftermarket I'm afraid I won't be much help. I just find it unlikely the trafficator wiring could be affected by the fuse problem. The horn wire is made to go to ground, so all a short in the horn wire would do is make the horn honk. Then, the chance of 2 out of the other 3 signal wires grounding in the trafficator is just difficult to understand. The horn and signal wires end up over by the fuse block that you were working on. It just seems most likely the issue would be there.

Is there a reason you are thinking trafficator?

You are right, the trafficator is not involved. I am going through all the wire connections from the stator tube wires tomorrow. I found a three way green wire connection that had a bad connector. I have tried to find the 3 & 4 way connectors everywhere, Amazon doesn't even have the right ones. Will let you know if i have any success tomorrow.

 

[Jim_Stevens]

call britishwiring for the connectors, and get their handy pliers to squeeze the together. ISTR Moss sells a handy wiring kit too. I myself went whole hog and bought a bullet crimper tool too. I crimp AND solder, but I’m an EE…. Jim

 

[Redoakboo]

Thanks Jim,

Dick

 

[Stevenry]

I found bullet connectors and a very good quality crimper at “The Bonneville Shop.” I don’t think you want to scrimp on the crimper.

Steve

 

[CJD]

Yep, never scrimp the crimp!

 

[Redoakboo]

I found bullet connectors and a very good quality crimper at “The Bonneville Shop.” I don’t think you want to scrimp on the crimper.

Steve

I got my scrimpers at British wiring and just ordered my 3 & 4 way connector from them too.