Silicone gaskets aren't always the "cats meow" to stopping leaks. They can work fine, but sometimes they don't. I have reverted back to cork gaskets in most cases and I use the cork gasket with a thin smear of Black RTV gasket maker sealant on both sides of the gasket. You can use gray RTV gasket maker as well. And now there is a green RTV gasket maker used where there is EP Gear lube present. But don't use clear silicone gasket sealer. It is junk and is degregated by oil and gasoline. When using the RTV gasket makers it is important to give them time to cure. In my mind that means 24 hours or at least overnight. Their packaging will lead you to believe that you can put the parts into service right away but if you really want it to last, wait overnight. Also on installation, let the stuff set up a little before mating the surfaces and then don't over tighten. You just need to get the pieces to be a good snug put together then the RTV will do the rest.
A couple of things I learned about cork gaskets in my years racing Spridgets:
First, be sure the surfaces on both the head and valve cover are very clean and dry
Second check the valve cover with a straight edge to be sure it is straight and square (a bent or twisted valve cover will never seal)
Use a fresh, brand new cork gasket that fits correctly, if it is stretched out or you have to stretch it to fit it is probably NG
Using RTV (Blue, Black, etc.) glue the cork gasket to the valve cover and put it on a flat true surface sitting on the gasket with some weight on the top of the valve cover (a lb or two will do)
After checking to be sure it is all sitting straight leave it be until the RTV is completely cured (an hour or two or more if possible, half hour minimum)
Once it is cured, use New rubbers for he VC bolts. Refit the valve cover and be very careful not to over tighten the bolts as this will warp the valve cover
By doing it this way you should be able to remove and replace the valve cover many times without having to replace the gasket again.
Cheers,
Dan M.