• Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

Late production classic minis: anyone have one???

V

vagt6

Guest
Guest
Offline
I'm changing jobs soon and facing a rather long commute, but on very good roads. I want to make the commute as fun as poss, and also incorporate an LBC if at all practicable.

Sooo, I've been eyeballing some of the later production Mini Coopers, with 1380 mpi engines, modern drivetrains, amenities, etc.

Also a couple of outfits will "manufacture" one for you for a fairly decent price, see below for a couple of examples. The last link is for Honda engines, but interesting:

https://www.superfastminis.com/

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/...0421787250&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT


https://passwordjdm.com/B18C-R-OBD2-98-Spec-Motor-Swap-LSD-P1581C201.aspx

Question: do any of you own, or have experience with such "manufactured" Minis?

I'm not so riveted on the VTEC/Honda conversions, but it is enticing from a durability/power perspective. Frankly, 140-200 HP in a classic Mini, for most "practical" purposes, may be a bit beyond practical. I don't see how you could give it more than half-throttle in first gear without smoking the tires!

Generally, I'm interested in how durable and drivable one of the modern Minis (i.e., 1990-2000) Minis might be (2000 was the last Model year). Seems that a well-built 1380 injected Mini has all the power I'd need for a commuter vehicle, with the excellent gas mileage.

What's your experience with a "modern classic" Mini, guys? What can you tell me about ride/handling/durability, etc.??

Thanks for the input!
 

dklawson

Yoda
Offline
First I'll make a legal statement that the rule (as I understand it) is that a car must be 25 years old or older to qualify for importation. This would put the cutoff at 1984, well before the injected Minis. Yes, you will see SPI and MPI Minis for sale in the U.S. However, they will be carefully described as "197X Mini updated to 199X specs" or similar. MANY of such cars you see pictures of are late model cars parked on a 1980 or older title. Be careful, don't be illegal. Though it's not common in the old car hobby to have cars impounded, it is within the government's right to do so.

Back on the subject of reliability and driveability, there are few shops that will work on the SPI and MPI Minis. I understand that the ECU is from Delco/GM so some shops will have equipment to handle the computer interface. The mechanicals of the car are largely unchanged from the 1980s so that doesn't represent any real challenge. Thus, the biggest hurdle for a late model Mini being a reliable daily driver are issues with the ECU and injection system, neither of which was really officially imported and supported here.

So, if you want a really reliable, easily supported later Mini, I'd focus on one built in the 1980s with a carbureted 998cc engine. The 1275 has more power but the 998 has been the workhorse and is a highly reliable engine. If you really want more power, start with a basic 1275 and add put on a big-valve 12G940 head, an uprated carb needle, and an RC40 exhaust. This will give you good street power while retaining reliability. If you want a bit more power than that and are willing to pull the engine, switch the cam. There are many to consider. I run a Swiftune SW5. It's a nice cam for low end torque (pulls strong from 1500 RPM) while maintaining a normal idle. There are lots of radical cams out there but they push you further and further away from a reliable, streetable daily driver.

A word of buyer caution is in order though. This is the 50th anniversary of the Mini and prices are ridiculously high. Shop around. Whatever you buy, buy the "best body" you can get. It costs just as much to repair the body of a common 850 sedan as it does a Cooper-S. In contrast, the mechanicals are readily available should you wish to upgrade, change, swap them and the amount you spend is up to you. Again, buy the car based on its body. Expect that many headed for the U.S. are marginal on passing their MOT. Have any potential purchase carefully examined for rust in the sills, wheel arches, boot floor, and A-panels. I cannot stress enough the importance of buying based on the condition of the body.

EDIT: Sorry, I totally neglected the VTEC aspect of your question. It's up to you, but if you want a VTEC, buy a Honda. A Mini really isn't a Mini without an A-series (or A+) engine.
 
OP
V

vagt6

Guest
Guest
Offline
Thanks, Doug, I figured you'd know a bit about this topic.

I'll continue to research. I'd like to hear from folks who drive these cars. I know a guy nearby who has a 2000 MINI, 1380 MPI and LOVES the thing. Says it gets almost 50MPG with a very tall diff ratio, Rover 5 speed, etc. Air bags, all the amenities. Need to track him down for more info.

Very interesting. Like you said, Doug, the Honda drivetrain seems pure overkill to me. However, to some folks (not me :nonono:), it's all about the overkill . . .

I'll keep everyone posted on this . . . thanks again.
 

JC_T_ONE

Member
Offline
Hi Mark, there is also the turbo way, this way you can keep the car nice, and quiet, but still have the power if needed.
Fuel consumption is all up to the driver-he he

I have done 700 miles, in my JANSPEED turbo, and you can cruise down the coast, or take it on the freeway, and play with new modern cars, the best thing is that its so quiet, you can hardly hear any noise, and you keep the A series, so its still a proper Mini.

Jens Christian
 
OP
V

vagt6

Guest
Guest
Offline
Jens, thank you very much for the reply. I am very interested in this topic so I appreciate your input.

What kind of maintenance must be performed on your Janspeed turbo? It's a modified 1275, so for example how often must you check the valve lash? How often do your spark plugs need to be changed? What else? What gearbox does your car have?

I'm thinking about using a classic Mini for a rather long, all 60 MPH highway commute. This may or not be a good idea, but boy, would it ever be fun! I can do regular maintenance work on any 1275-powered car myself, I'm just wondering how the engine and drivetrain would hold up under such heavy use and what it would take to properly maintain the car.

I hold no illusions about reliability on these cars, having driven LBCs for the most part of the last forty years. But still, I intend to research the possibilities. I love classic LBCs and want to have some FUN in my daily commute to the salt mines.

Again, Jens, thank you for your input.
 

JC_T_ONE

Member
Offline
Hi again, just came back from a 4 hour drive in the snowstorm, was only 10 miles down the road, to pick up numberplates.

Regarding my turbo, I have only driven it for 700 miles since the resto, so all I have done, was tightning down the head, after 200 miles, at the same time I adjusted the valves, and changed the oil, becourse ALL inside is brand new.

The service book for the MG Metro Turbo, has the same milage between service, as any normal Mini, but dont forget, its the A+ engine, ánd they all have longer between service, it became standard from around 1980/81 app.

I had a complete MG turbo setup, but I sold it a few months ago
These setups, are becoming hard to find, in the UK now, as most are rusted away, and the engine is then transferred to a Mini.

I will post a picture of my engine bay for you. Now there is a picture for you to see.

I almost forgot, I met a guy with a Danish Mini 40, back in 2000, he also had the numberplate for it also(looked cool) that was a really nice car, but I havent seen it since.

Jens Christian
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
R 3-point seat belts on late production BT7 MKII Austin Healey 7
M TR2/3/3A Late 57 Production with a Small Mouth Apron Triumph 16
V MGB Replace late intake manifold angled breather with early model straight? MG 1
C What to do with my late father's Healey 100 Austin Healey 5
K TR6 TR6 late rims wanted Triumph 0
M Need help removing the pinion assembly from a late 1275 steering rack Spridgets 7
B Austin-Healey late 3000 BJ8 Electrical Diagram Austin Healey 1
WHT Late BJ8 Seat Belt Mounting Points Austin Healey 8
D Wanted WTB: Late Triumph Spitfire Top Frame Triumph Classifieds 8
T TR4/4A Recommendation on top for a late TR4A Triumph 8
steveg TR6 Late Wiper/Washer Switch - What Happened? Triumph 3
T For Sale Triumph TR6 N.O.S engine block [late] Triumph Classifieds 2
M TR2/3/3A Upper Fulcrum Orientation On TR3A with Late TR4 Upper Control Arms Triumph 6
M Wanted WTB Late model TR6 Front Brake Caliper Brackets Triumph Classifieds 0
B Wanted WTB: TR3 Late model-"Round bottom" door Triumph Classifieds 4
crispy How to Remove the Exhaust Manifold?? [late BJ8] Austin Healey 27
Alfred E. Neuman Late Healey 3000 Spotted 0
JPSmit Late night Benz [no pics] Other Cars 3
B Wanted Late TR6 Gearbox frame Crossmember Triumph Classifieds 1
K Wanted W.T.B. Late 100 BN1-BN2 DOOR HINGE Austin Healey Classifieds 0
L For Sale late tr4a IRS project Triumph Classifieds 0
T TR2/3/3A Early/Late Starter? Triumph 6
Michael Oritt Spridget Differential Carrier--early versus late question Spridgets 1
Marvin Gruber Mounting info needed for late BJ8 license plate holder Austin Healey 9
S Late 1930s Business Coupe Other Cars 1
tr3guy TR2/3/3A Late TR3A, TR3B windshield assemply Triumph 5
TR3driver TR2/3/3A Late TR3A fuse box mounting Triumph 10
T TR2/3/3A Late Fuel Tank in Pre-TS60000 TR3A Triumph 3
B TR4/4A Late TR4A - Anyone know what this is ??? Triumph 10
Joe Reed MGB DIY Late MGB Mud Shield MG 0
eschneider Any late-model Mercedes owners willing to review new brake pads/ rotors? Other Cars 4
L WTB - rear leaf spring, late model Sprite / Midget Spridgets 8
Keoke SEE it is never too late Austin Healey 3
T TR2/3/3A Has anyone put late TR4/4A upper A-arms and ball joints on TR3? Triumph 3
wkilleffer MGB brake light switches of late Restoration & Tools 3
Mickey Richaud Early [late 30's?] 10 Spotted 0
B TR6 Vacuum retard late TR6 Triumph 4
B TR6 Is the "separation tank" in late model TR6's necessary? Triumph 5
G Late model head light circuit Spridgets 3
af3683 TR2/3/3A Late TR3 Starter Triumph 3
B Spitfire How do you replace U Joint on late model Spitfire OD Prop/Drive shaft? Triumph 7
6TTR3A TR2/3/3A Late TR2 Grill surround Triumph 12
R TR6 How does one test the voltage regulator in th late TR6? Triumph 2
PatGalvin TR2/3/3A Late model TR3 Fuel Tank Straps available to a nice home Triumph 0
D Late to early bumper swap Triumph 10
dklawson 150 CD Carb Floats - Early vs Late ? Triumph 2
wingsandwheels TR6 Late TR6 Wiper/Wash Switch Triumph 0
Geo Hahn TR4/4A TR4 / late TR3A Starter Pinion Triumph 4
F Late BJ7- any close to mine? 25281 Austin Healey 14
S TR2/3/3A Late TR3A windscreen Washers Triumph 7

Similar threads

Top