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Key in Ignition warning buzzer

Olafthor

Member
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Does anyone know where to find a replacement warning buzzer or who can rebuild them?

Thanks,
Daniel
 
G

Guest

Guest
Guest
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Perchance, is that the little round cannister with a mounting tab and two brass spade connectors marked "W1" and "C1"?

I have a 73 TR6 as well and got this in when I was gonna rebuild to factory specs. That went out the window long ago and have no need for such. The buzzer, if that what this is, has never been installed. The label says, "AC Made in England, 1V7978803 B2"

If this is what you want, it is free to you. Just PM your mailing address to me.
 

Tomster

Jedi Knight
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I'd like a similar device that says "Hey you, you left your lights on!" for my 4A as I drive lights on all the time.
Anyone rigged one up?
 

AltaKnight

Jedi Knight
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Tomster....
There are some aftermarket gizmos that have a warning beeper for the lights being left on.
I think they need connections to the ignition system and probably the courtesy light switch.
They used to have them at Canadian Tire.
See you round town.
 

delisaj

Senior Member
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I had that ignition warning warning buzzer wired up, and found the thing so annoying that I had to disconnect it.

Perhaps I could use it now as a way to warn for the leaving the lights on. Hmmmm.
 

guzzul

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
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delisaj said:
Perhaps I could use it now as a way to warn for the leaving the lights on. Hmmmm.
Seems to me you could do this.

Replacing the solid-purple wire at the LH door switch with a lead tapped into the red-wire (dash lamp) circuit (upstream of the rheostat) could provide power (only when the main light-switch is on). You would need to bypass the ignition-key contacts (Black-Green wire coming off the buzzer), otherwise you would have the buzzer on any time the lights were on, which would be a tad frustrating.

Seems do'able though. I don't know how much extra strain the buzzer and the ignition-ring lamp would put on the lighting circuit, and whether that would cause you to blow fuses. That would need to be checked.

Any wiring experts out there? Does this sound feasible?
 
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