TR2/3/3A Ignition key issue

[Jerry]

Hey group,
Strange problem, I bought the replacement door, trunk, ignition kit to replace the originals which the chrome was gone. The ignition key works but sometimes when in the on position, cuts out. A wiggle of the key turns it back on. A little unsettling when driving a new restore. Anyone have any ideas to fix this issue?
Note: No problem turning the key, but the ignition light as an example only comes on and lets the car run in the far right turn. Seems like there is too much play in there but I don't know the issue.

jerry
TR3A

 

[TR3driver]

So are you saying you replaced the switch or just the lock?

I pulled my original switch apart (by drilling out the rivets) and discovered that it was just worn out inside. The spring-loaded moving contact is supposed to drop into holes in the fixed contacts to provide the detent action, but the fixed contacts had a slot worn in them so there was no detent action left. I probably could have saved it by cutting deeper holes in the fixed contacts and touching up the tips of the moving contact (or just fabricating a new one); but it was a lot easier to just replace the switch.

However, if it's a new switch, then it sounds defective to me.

 

[tinman58]

A defective electrical switch on a Triumph? Who wodda thunk?

 

[Jerry]

For the ignition, these kits come with the barrel , so I did have to insert it into the housing, but I have done that before and can't remember any problems. It is new and must be defective! IE: I am perfect so it must be the part! I will take it out and at least look at the internals. Perhaps like Dan's , the housing has too much play in it.
Jerry

 

[6TTR3A]

Randall is right (as usual) they wear out after 40+ years, but replacement switch
bodies are plentiful and inexpensive. The same switch fits several British motorcycles,
so they are all over the internet. Google LUCAS-30608-S45 That's your switch and
you'll gets lots of hits.
Frank