Try a couple of tests. Disconnect the wire from sender to gage, at the sender. Ground the wire coming from the gage. The gage should read empty or a little below. With the wire ungrounded the gage should read above full.If not, the gage or the wiring are defective. You can isolate the back of the gage & do the same tests to find if it is the gage or the wiring.
Measure the resistance from the isolated sender terminal to ground. with the tank full there should be around 70 to 80 ohms. With the tank empty the reading should be around zero to 7 ohms.
It may be easier to remove the sender for tests. Be prepared to replace the cork seal around the sender & there should be copper washers under the sender securing screw heads. Permatex "Hylomar HPF" is a good sealer to use on the gasket & screws.
Obviously there should be no fuel in the brass float. If there is, drill a small hole in it & drain. Solder the hole & submerge the float in hot water. Air bubbles will come out wherever the leak is. Solder the leak & retest.
As you move the float arm from empty position to full the ohmeter connected from sender terminal to ground should change smoothly from around zero to 70 ohms. Sometimes the arm can be making a poor ground contact on the sender body & cleaning or tightening the arm pivot can help. There is a small resistance wire coil that the arm travels over which gives the resistance changes with arm motion. It is pretty hard to repair the tiny wire but it can sometimes be done.
If you get a new sender (Moss is as good as any) do the same tests before installing things. There is a way to precisely calibrate the gage itself if everything is ok & the gage is just a little off. If the gage needs repair go here;
Margaret Lucas
Mo Ma Manufacturing - instrument repair
13211 Second Street. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87102
Ph (505) 766-6661 - Fax (505) 766-5419
momanm@aol.com
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