Fuel sediment bowl leaking madness

[tdskip]

So I was THIS close to getting the '66 TR4a running today. OK, okn yes I did use starting fluid just to hear her run but that doesn't count.

What stopped me from doing it properly was the darn fuel sediment bowl wouldn't stop leaking. Tried a new cork gasket - nope. Tried a solid plastic gasket - nope. Tried another bowl - nope. Cleaned the sealing face extra well and tried all of thse again - nope.

Anyone else have this issue?

 

[TR4nut]

Tom-

You sure you are leaking from the mating gasket there? Most issues I've had involve the o-ring and the jet adjusting screw (assuming you are talking about ZS carbs)

Randy

 

[DNK]

Think he's talking fuel pump,Randy

 

[TR4nut]

Think he's talking fuel pump,Randy

Oops, Don, you are right! In that case, I did have the problem but tightening up on the glass bowl did the trick.

 

[Deleted member 8987]

You have a glass sediment bowl with a bale, and tightening thumscrew?

Take the glass bowl out. Remove the bale (lift on one side), remove the gasket. Set the glass back up against the top without a gasket and see if it sits flush, or if it wobbles.

If it's what I think it is, the top is warped from overtightening, you can grind out the gasket surface on the hight parts, or tape it up and JBQuick, then dremel, sandpaper, and hope, or just replace it.

If it's part of the fuel pump, same drill.

 

[HerronScott]

Randy,

I think Tom is probably talking about the fuel pump.

Tom is it possible the leak isn't coming from the bowl but from the fuel pump outlet?

Scott

 

[Tom_Lynch]

Hi guys - yes, should have been more clear but he is asking about the fuel pump.

TOC - it feels like it sets properly but obviously not, so having the top be warped from over tightening makes sense.

Scott - good idea but it is weeping down the side of the glass bowl and after checking the lines several times I've ruled them out.

Given the time / hassle / risk of not actually fixing it. I guess it will just be replaced.

 

[DNK]

Lots of problems with the new pumps and the old pipes, me thinks,careful Tom

 

[Geo Hahn]

Tom -- I think you may be having an identity crisis. Nonetheless...

The suggestion of offering the bare bowl up to the bare mating surface sounds like the ideal way to tell if it is bent or not.

I had a bowl top that got warped from overtightening and was able to get it back into shape with a hammer and a couple of blocks of wood. Those pumps are cast out of pretty soft metal -- easy to warp, but pretty easy to straighten too.

I always use Hylomar on that gasket -- probably because I use Hylomar on everything but bagels.

 

[TR3driver]

TRF sells a nice soft 'rubber' gasket (probably Buna-N or similar, don't know) that seal much easier than cork, IMO.

If you couldn't feel the bowl rock against the bare casting, then IMO it's unlikely to be significantly warped. But another way to check is to rub black "magic marker" on the sealing surface of the casting, then hold the bowl against it and turn the bowl. It should leave a nice, clear line where it rubs the ink off of the casting.

 

[Member 10617]

George,

What version of Hylomar do you prefer: Hylomar AF or Hylomar M?

 

[Geo Hahn]

I use Universal Blue Racing Formula just because it was readily available. Some prefer plain Universal Blue. The difference may be in the solvent used -- I have no idea whether the 'Racing' designation means something or is just a marketing ploy (like 'California Style').

I do massage the tube a bit before using to get a consistent goo.

 

[TR3driver]

Hylomar says the difference is in the solvent, the original solvent is considered environmentally unfriendly (VOC). And for one thing, you don't have to massage the tube with the non-racing formula. It also goes on easier and thinner, IMO.

Seems like I read somewhere that the "Racing" designation was supposed to be because you didn't have to wait for the solvent to flash off before assembly. Racers are in a hurry sometimes.