Front Tilt or Stock Fit Bonnet

[tiiM5]

I am curious regarding experiences with front tilt hood or stock hood.

I am working on the fitment and my car presents with issues- passenger wing fits with better gaps that the drivers side.
The drivers side suffered a minor injury decades ago. I have fitted new bulkhead and inner fender rather than pound and fill
the bent pieces.
I am certain I can make up some gap, I've read about purchasing new hood hinges and I may try that prior to making a final decision.
I am curious is tilt installation more forgiving on fitment issues?
Is stock any better?

I welcome your sharing your experiences.

Thanks

 

[Keith_M]

I think you'll get a lot of different opinions on this, but here's my two cents. I just finished a bugeye restoration, and I initially set it up with the original hinges. The bonnet is very heavy, and the prop rods on either side don't inspire confidence (at least to me). Plus, access to the engine is very difficult. So, I switched to a front tilt set up. I used Gerard's (he's a frequent contributor to this forum) set up, and it worked great. I'm much happier with the front tilt. It's a lot less scary, and it's a lot easier to access the engine. I don't think the fit will be influenced by which set up you use, just the things I talked about.

 

[Rut]

I am curious regarding experiences with front tilt hood or stock hood.

I am working on the fitment and my car presents with issues- passenger wing fits with better gaps that the drivers side.
The drivers side suffered a minor injury decades ago. I have fitted new bulkhead and inner fender rather than pound and fill
the bent pieces.
I am certain I can make up some gap, I've read about purchasing new hood hinges and I may try that prior to making a final decision.
I am curious is tilt installation more forgiving on fitment issues?
Is stock any better?

I welcome your sharing your experiences.

Thanks

As Keith said you will get a lot of opinions on this. I switched to a front tilt and could never get the closing gaps to be consistent no matter how tight I got the bolts. I tried a different brand of front tilt hinges and had the same issues which I've not been able to correct. The regular hinges keep the bonnet positioned better, but it's a heavy lift with little room to work on the engine.
Rut

 

[Jim_Gruber]

I've used Gerard's kit on my '68 Sprite w BE bonnet with no issues and I'm about to install one from Gerard on Bugsy IV my '60 BE. You have no idea how many head wounds I've managed to inflict on myself over the past year. Consider adding reinforcement 1/4" steel reinforcement rod around the wheel arches, especially if there are cracks at the top of the arch before painting. You'll need to figure out what you want to do for latches at the back of the bonnet. I chose some stainless steel, adjustable , locking draw latches from McMaster Carr catalog. Others choose leather straps, or fit Triumph style latches. Gerard's kit is quality built with grade 8 Hardware, precision machined, good stuff. Google Bonnet Latches and you will find some interesting choices from across the pond.

 

[tiiM5]

I have Gerards kit, as you mention, it is excellent, well thought out and clear instructions, I am leaning towards using it but wanted some perspective I am not partial to side straps or other obvious bonnet hold down solutions.
just trying to collect anecdotal information to assist my decision.

thanks, for all your comments.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Speedwell makes an interesting bonnet hold down kit. Not cheap but it looks like an interesting way to do it. Latches, not elegant but simple to execute. Drive not Design is the ultimate goal.

 

[Keith_M]

I am still considering hold-down options for mine. But, honestly, the thing stays put pretty well without anything.

 

[BillW103]

I like the stock setup. I don't have to spend much time working on it now. When it sets in the garage I can leave it open and it doesn't take up the room a forward tilt would. The props have always worked ok. It is a little heavy.

 

[Joe Schlosser]

Swiched to front tilt maybe 40 plus years ago, I fabbed my own hinges back then but recently switched to the standard design used by Gerard and the Outfit in Colorado (frequently on EBay).
With the regular setup it is almost impossible to work on the master cylinders or check the battery levels. Same thoughts for checking on any wiring issues neat the myriad of connectors at the bulk head
I used Pins attached to the original hinges for hold down till I switched to the new hinges. Have to fill the old holes for paint job.
As the load when the bonnet is open is through the front bottom the section behind the grill needs to be in good shape. Any reinforcing of the bonnet should be in this section

 

[tiiM5]

Joe, thanks for your observations. If you or others have any photos of your set up you might post that would be welcomed.

Thanks

 

[Gerard]

Joe,

You should know that the guy that sells them on eBay stole the design off my web site. He even has the balls to print the instruction pages directly from my site (I've since put together a better unpublished set that only my customers get). All this was done without my permission or acknowledgment. His product is made from unpainted steel and used all grade two hardware, and sell for about the same price as my kit, which is 6061 aluminum, and grade 5 and 8 hardware. There's no comparison in quality.

I'm thinking about coming up with something even better down the road and have some ideas about incorporating a latching system.

Swiched to front tilt maybe 40 plus years ago, I fabbed my own hinges back then but recently switched to the standard design used by Gerard and the Outfit in Colorado (frequently on EBay).
With the regular setup it is almost impossible to work on the master cylinders or check the battery levels. Same thoughts for checking on any wiring issues neat the myriad of connectors at the bulk head
I used Pins attached to the original hinges for hold down till I switched to the new hinges. Have to fill the old holes for paint job.
As the load when the bonnet is open is through the front bottom the section behind the grill needs to be in good shape. Any reinforcing of the bonnet should be in this section

 

[Jim_Gruber]

And I will second Gerard's Comments. His kit is ready to be installed right after I get the new Speedo and Tach installed this weekend. Time to fab up the Weatherpack 6 Way Quick Disconnect for the bonnet so bonnet can be on and off of the car in less than 10m all by myself.

 

[Joe Schlosser]

Jim
Disconnecting the electrics and unbolting the hood is the easy part. How are you planning to lift the bonnet alone??
I have never been able to remove the bonnet by myself. I was thinking of rigging something through my hoist.

 

[gfholl]

I used an engine hoist which worked well. I would have been more nervous if I had a nice paint job though.

 

[bugedd]

I've been considering this as well, but haven't found a latch system I like. Any pics of some clean latches? The leather ones might be nice, may look more period correct.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

I used some old Sailing Hardware and Line I had in the garage. On each Fender was a mirror hole. I inserted an Eye Bolt with a backing washer on the end into the mirror mount hole. Two ropes went to each side with an S Hook on the end. Ropes met in the middle to form a bridle which led to a single rope running up to the Beam in my garage. With my 7'+ Ceiling in the garage not a lot of room but rope went through a pulley and I installed a cleat, again more spare old sailing hardware so I could clamp the hoist rope wherever I wanted. The spacing of the Mirror Mount holes pretty well balanced the bonnet. I learned I could raise the bonnet fairly level rotate it 90 degrees so it was clear of the fenders and lower it onto the back edge/corner and then stand it straight up on a piece of carpet or cardboard and then rotate and move as needed after I disconnected the S Hooks.

A similar setup can be found to raise and lower Miata Hardtops into place, or raise bicycles up to the ceiling for storage. Really pretty simple. Again the same setup can be used tp install hardtop by yourself, just back the car onto the garage. Have a helper ready the first few times you try it. Again helps not to have really nice paint if doing this by yourself.

On Bugsy IV I will make this a 3 point or maybe a 4 point bridle and will use two screw mounting holes for the hood hinge on each side to anchor the hoist ropes. and figure out a similar arrangement for the front. Bugsy IV will not have fender mount mirror holes when painted.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I've thought about making a purpose built dolly to hold the bonnet in an upright position by cradling the nose.

 

[Gerard]

I use what I think was originally intended as a Miata hardtop cart/dolly. There are some ready made ones that should work quite well with the nose in the up position.

I've thought about making a purpose built dolly to hold the bonnet in an upright position by cradling the nose.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

I found one online made for a small Mercedes it was < 100 including g shipping. Wheels and allows it to be stored without damage.