Front-tilt latches

[David_Doan]

I decided to get the bonnet alignment and latches squared away before painting. Per Jim's recommendation I got the draw latches pictured below from McMaster-Carr. My only concern is the tiny #6 screws for installing them. Looking at the catch end on the right, there's not much room to drill them out either.

While poking around in their catalog, I found the t-handle latches below. These are very similar to what the old Jeeps used for hood latches. These are much beefier with holes for 1/4" screws.

For the bonnet itself, I will just use machine screws with nuts on the back. On the chassis side you can't get to the back. Are sheet metal screws enough or is a rivet-nut like the ones below more appropriate?

I'd appreciate any wisdom from those that have done this before. I'm leaning towards using the Jeep type latches with rivet-nuts.

 

[leecreek]

As presently having the ugliest latches on my BE right now, I have some of the instrument box latches similar to the top picture. But have not put them on. I would NOT put the Jeep latches on. No way IMHO. Really the Bonnet isn't going anyplace with the front tilt. I think Spritenut used Dzeus fasteners on his. similar to these....https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrd-192 And I do like the look of the Spitfire fasteners but I think I have cut enough into the Bonnet at this time. If I was going with the instrument type, I would install them with the handle going down when it was latched. My present rubber ones use a single pop rivet to mount to the rocker panel.

not a good pic.

 

[leecreek]

:smile-new:

 

[mightymidget]

I am gonna try round speaker magnets mounted on well boxes

 

[paulsherman]

I am installing Spitfire latches. Notice the "installing"part. Lots of trial and error, but progressing.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

David,

I used those small sheet metal screws for 4-5 years and Bugsy's bonnet had lots of stress on it as the latches needed to put some curve back into the top of the bonnet. Bonnets if set flat tend to sag and flatten out if not bolted in place and it had been that way for 20 years prior to my owning it. There is not much pressure on those screws just sideways pressure and the flat plate holds it in place. Anyway, I even changed location for the latches more than once. Removed the latch, screwed in a self tapping sheet metal screw, cut off the head and ground down flat with an angle grinder. The heat from grinding welded the sheet metal screw in place. Ground flat, prime and paint. Go for it, that latch works and the adjustment lets you fit as needed.

The other alternative is a hidden latch that Speedwell Engineering just developed. You can find a picture on the bugeyeparts.com page under New Parts Section. I like the setup and concept but see issues getting alignment done with the bonnet and front hinge. Check out that alternative. A little pricey but another way to do it.

 

[David_Doan]

Thanks Jim, I have a similar issue with my bonnet, its only been off for six months, but is still not quite right. OR... my expectations may be too high. That's why I thought the Jeep type latches would work well, with the internal spring providing constant tension and less importance to have them positioned perfectly.

 

[David_Doan]

I am gonna try round speaker magnets mounted on well boxes

That sounds interesting. You'll have to find a place to pull on it so start pulling the bonnet up.

 

[David_Doan]

I am installing Spitfire latches. Notice the "installing"part. Lots of trial and error, but progressing.

I've thought about that too, the scary part is cutting the rectangle for the latch, seems like a one shot deal.

 

[RickB]

I've thought about that too, the scary part is cutting the rectangle for the latch, seems like a one shot deal.

Worse that can happen, you have to get the hole welded up and start over.

 

[paulsherman]

Once you locate, cut and install the latch to the bonnet, you can then position the hook part as near as possible. Then relocate the hook part as required, by re-drilling the mounting bolts. Also, I needed to make a shim to locate the hook part (sorry can't remember the name) inboard and outboard. Currently am using hardwood shims. Like I said, "installing". What I did before I started, I made a mock-up to closely position the parts before cutting hole for latch. By the way, I am doing this on a fiberglass bonnet. When I get it close and pulled down tight, it was recommended that I leave it out in the sun for a few days before final fit.

 

[David_Doan]

I spent some more time aligning today. I'm now pretty close to not needing latches, I'm not drilling any holes for now.

 

[BlueMax]

My Caterham uses these!

https://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=865

https://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=872

https://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=977

 

[Jim_Gruber]

I tried something similar from Winner's Circle. Broke 2 sets before I went to the McMaster Carr Latches David posted pics of. The Stainless MC Latches are rated at 400 lbs draw strength and they are adjustable with a push to open lock.

So David, how soon to paint?

 

[David_Doan]

So David, how soon to paint?

Ugh... Hopefully soon. Still lots of prep....

 

[BlueMax]

As far as strength, my bonnet hinges hold at 135mph, that’s about 500 lbs of force pulling on it. You can see John Sprinzel’s sprite running them too.

https://www.spritespot.com/gallery/sprinzelsebringsprite?page=37

What every fits your fancy?