TR4/4A Dropping the Engine and Transmission Back onto the Mounts

[KVH]

Can I slide the motor and transmission back into the car, and onto the mounts, together, engine bolted to transmission, with the transmission cover still on, or must I remove that cover? I noted reference in my manual to removal of the transmission cover. I thought that removal of the shift lever, however, should be enough. Please let me know how you feel about it. thx

 

[TomMull]

I've never tried it withe the cover on but I'm quite sure it's possible. It does come off quite easily and I would remove it. It really increases wiggle room. Tom

 

[charleyf]

I don't like messing with removing the tranny tunnel and the dash support. However, I would always take it off to remove or replace the tranny and engine. I am thinking that you will have a major hassle with the rear mounting bolts for the tranny but even more for the driveline bolts.
Charley

 

[KVH]

If I remove the cover, must I drain all the gear oil? I can't recall how high up the fluid level comes in the gearbox. I have a Type A Overdrive (Laycock) as well.

 

[charleyf]

I do not believe so. The oil level is a bit over the mid level of the tranny. It sure is a convenient time to change and refill the tranny.
Charley

 

[sp53]

You can make a temp trans cover with some tinfoil and string-- sometimes it better to put the mounts on the engine and the slip the package in to place then bolts the mount to the frame because the studs sticks up.

 

[SteveBones]

When I restored my TR4, I pulled out and later put back in the engine and transmission with the trans cover. (I actually had to do this a couple of times so I know it works). I did remove the gearshift lever. I installed the eng/trans with the help of another person. The engine hoist that I rented also came with a chain that included fasteners that bolted onto the engine head bolts. The hook on the hoist itself was placed on the chain so that the engine and transmission would be tilted when raised. This allowed the tail end of the transmission to be lower that the front of the engine. One of us moved and slowly lowered the hoist while the other person guided the transmission by grabbing the tail end where the drive shaft bolts on. I hope this helps.

 

[Geo Hahn]

I'm so confused... are we talking about the cover on the gearbox or the tunnel in the car? Sounds like both depending on whose talking.

 

[KVH]

I'm so confused... are we talking about the cover on the gearbox or the tunnel in the car? Sounds like both depending on whose talking.

The actual 8 bolt shifter cover of the transmission itself. Not the interior tunnel cover. The manual must assume that the extra two or three inches is important. They figured folks like me would bend up the firewall and accelerator shaft and make a royal mess. Maybe they're right.

 

[charleyf]

I'm so confused... are we talking about the cover on the gearbox or the tunnel in the car? Sounds like both depending on whose talking.

Sorry I was confused as well. I was believing that you were referring to the tunnel. I have ALWAYS LEFT THE TOP ON THE TRANSMISSION. The clearance issues come from the top of the bell housing and the fire wall. I do remove the gear shift and attached pieces.
Charley

 

[KVH]

I just wasted 3 hours trying the get the engine and transmission into my 4A, doing it all in one piece. No way. The oil pan kept hitting the frame member; the bell housing hit the accelerator rod, the front plate wouldn't meet the mounts; the engine hoist wouldn't reach far enough and kept hitting my front bumper. Tomorrow, the engine goes in first, then I'll horse my transmission in from the interior, and all will be well by the weekend.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Just put engine/trans back in a TR4a on Saturday. For TR4s I always remove the top of trans. I also had carbs and exhuast manifolds on on engine. I only use short chain and let it slip in hoist hook as I need to tilt engine. I also remove rear trans mount as well. Takes about ten minutes by myself to set in. I use a 2x4 under tail shaft to hold it up (once I have the engine on mounts) to set the the rear trans mount back in place.
marv

 

[sp53]

the car needs to pretty high, but the two should go when you tip the trans down.

 

[Mink]

Did mine recently and don't recall any drama. My accelerator shaft was out but other than that it just popped right in. I had a friend helping guide it.

 

[glemon]

I never thought to take the top cover off the tranny, when I first started reading it I also thought the reference was to the fiberboard or plastic transmission cover. I suppose it would give more clearance. There is always something more to learn I guess.

 

[Mink]

I never thought to take the top cover off the tranny, when I first started reading it I also thought the reference was to the fiberboard or plastic transmission cover. I suppose it would give more clearance. There is always something more to learn I guess.

Yep, that's what they are referring to in the procedure, not the tunnel cover (that's a separate step).

 

[KVH]

Did mine recently and don't recall any drama. My accelerator shaft was out but other than that it just popped right in. I had a friend helping guide it.

Mine is in now. All as one piece, after all. Another 3 hours, but that was all by my lonesome, under the car, back up, down under, over and over again. Issues for me were the height of the transmission overdrive tail under the car, the clutch rod "zerc" filling hitting the floor board, the accelerator shaft connecting link hitting the exhaust manifold (in addition to the shaft, itself, hitting the engine and bell housing), the angle of the drop possible with my AC Delco leveling arm (which I find quite cheap in quality, with shavings of the threaded rod spinning off, rod slipping and other issues), and the new alignment of my motor mounts due to now having a new (not bent) engine face. I also removed the front bumper and got three more inches (I see yours is off). But, yes, patience and determination, the right angle of descent, and I finally cleared the bottom cross member of the frame with the sump left intact, though I did bump it a bit hard on one too quick decent. It's all just experience, help, and patience and I sure lost the latter the first time.

 

[Mink]

Congrats!

I also removed the front bumper and got three more inches (I see yours is off).

Good point. Now that I think about it, even with the bumper off, the hoist was all the way up against the apron. It would definitely be tough to do with the bumper on and a standard engine hoist.

 

[KVH]

I've been here awhile so I know a few of you. And for that reason I corrected a spelling error above. I just want to head into the Holidays feeling proper.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

I have an overhead rail hoist which gives me a little more space. Bet you will admit, if you have to do again, you will be able to do in half the time.

Marv