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So have you had that sickening feeling when the little handle snaps off your heater valve? We all know better than to tempt fate by turning it, but it is awfully hard to resist. Here's a repair you might try:
1) This is what you have when you take the valve apart. It is really simple.
2) Carefully drill directly into the broken off handle. I drilled a hole using a 3/64" drill bit, drilling directly into the handle 15 mm.
3) Drill a similar hole into the valve itself, so that it will align with the hole you just drilled in the handle. I drilled this one about 10 mm in depth.
4) Now break off your drill bit the total length of both holes (in my case, 25 mm). I used the based of the drill bit for extra strength. (Note: You don't have to sacrifice the drill bit if you use a metal rod the same diameter as the drill bit. In fact, the repair may be more durable with a different metal rod- drill bit material is rather brittle)
5) You are going to insert the broken drill bit (or metal rod) into the valve, then slide the handle on the piece of bit projecting out. I mixed up JB Weld and put in both holes to hold everything in place.
6) Tighten down in a vise to make sure everything is seated well. Wipe off the excess JB Weld before it sets up to keep the neat appearance.
7) I reassembled the valve (and applied faucet and valve grease to the moving parts of the valve) and reinstalled. Works like a charm and looks as good as new. Plus it preserves the original part, and saves $115 by not having to buy a replacement.
Now, remember to never try to turn it again!
(Sometimes I think I should have gone to dental school.)
Best to all, Jeff
1) This is what you have when you take the valve apart. It is really simple.
2) Carefully drill directly into the broken off handle. I drilled a hole using a 3/64" drill bit, drilling directly into the handle 15 mm.
3) Drill a similar hole into the valve itself, so that it will align with the hole you just drilled in the handle. I drilled this one about 10 mm in depth.
4) Now break off your drill bit the total length of both holes (in my case, 25 mm). I used the based of the drill bit for extra strength. (Note: You don't have to sacrifice the drill bit if you use a metal rod the same diameter as the drill bit. In fact, the repair may be more durable with a different metal rod- drill bit material is rather brittle)
5) You are going to insert the broken drill bit (or metal rod) into the valve, then slide the handle on the piece of bit projecting out. I mixed up JB Weld and put in both holes to hold everything in place.
6) Tighten down in a vise to make sure everything is seated well. Wipe off the excess JB Weld before it sets up to keep the neat appearance.
7) I reassembled the valve (and applied faucet and valve grease to the moving parts of the valve) and reinstalled. Works like a charm and looks as good as new. Plus it preserves the original part, and saves $115 by not having to buy a replacement.
Now, remember to never try to turn it again!
(Sometimes I think I should have gone to dental school.)
Best to all, Jeff
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