TR2/3/3A Death by Electrocution

[charleyf]

A source for an appropriate sized pulley is a electric motor repair shop. When putting an alternator on my TR4 I had a repair shop rebuild a unit for me. At the owners suggestion he provided a smaller diameter pulley so that the unit spins a bit faster. He had several sizes available to fit the wide belts we use on our cars.
Charley

 

[jimstr4]

Just bought an ASE pulley. It's sent to Portland Oregon then shipped by NZ Post to Wellington New Zealand, so thankyou to whomever suggested it. All I've got as a reminder was a shortcut on Chrome.
I just have to go over all my notes re wiring. My mechanic owes me a favour as I did an IT job for him so I'll get him to buy me an alternator with the correct shaft diameter.

Jim

 

[TRrover]

Hi All,
I just wanted to post my final update on the electrical mystery that began 9 days ago...To quote Gene Wilder in "Young Frankenstein" IT LIVES, IT LIVES' yes, I finally got to what appears to be the bottom of it and it turns out that both the ammeter and the control box were fried, which one was first I'm not sure, but I'm guessing it was the control box. (the strap on the A terminal became a "fused link" wether it liked it or not.) I'm guessing it had a lot to do with the ammeter and the control box being 56 years old. After replacing both, checking connections and grounds. (finding many were loose or having poor connection) all now works, including gauges, lights and all devices I see so far. You guys really helped, and I learned a lot about British wiring and Lucas (the God of Darkness), much of which I shall no doubt use on this and other cars around here.

Cheers,
Rob

the "Other cars:
1968 Land Rover 2a "Bug Eye"
1967 Mini Cooper S
1964 356 C Porsche Coupe
1966 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ45 pick up
1967 VW Type1 Sunroof

 

[Geo Hahn]

...To quote Gene Wilder in "Young Frankenstein"...

Or the original...

Either way, it is a great feeling to get that sorted without fire & smoke.

 

[charleyf]

Hi All,. You guys really helped, and I learned a lot about British wiring and Lucas (the God of Darkness), much of which I shall no doubt use on this and other cars around here.

Cheers,
Rob

Rob,
Actually as I understand it Lucas is only "The Prince of Darkness". Think how much more trouble we would be in if he were actually a God.

 

[glcaines]

Hi All,
I just wanted to post my final update on the electrical mystery that began 9 days ago...To quote Gene Wilder in "Young Frankenstein" IT LIVES, IT LIVES' yes, I finally got to what appears to be the bottom of it and it turns out that both the ammeter and the control box were fried, which one was first I'm not sure, but I'm guessing it was the control box. (the strap on the A terminal became a "fused link" wether it liked it or not.) I'm guessing it had a lot to do with the ammeter and the control box being 56 years old. After replacing both, checking connections and grounds. (finding many were loose or having poor connection) all now works, including gauges, lights and all devices I see so far. You guys really helped, and I learned a lot about British wiring and Lucas (the God of Darkness), much of which I shall no doubt use on this and other cars around here.

Cheers,
Rob

I would be concerned that you haven't yet found the cause. The damage to the control box and ammeter could only be caused by excessive amperage where something shorted to ground. If I were you, I would trace all of the wires and look for a sporadic short someplace. One of my TR3s once had a short in the wiring to the tail lights. I would occasionally hit a bump in the road and it would short out and the area where the short was occurring was not obvious.

 

[TR3driver]

One of my TR3s once had a short in the wiring to the tail lights. I would occasionally hit a bump in the road and it would short out and the area where the short was occurring was not obvious.

I had a similar problem with my previous TR3A. One strand of wire had broken at a bullet connector and was sticking out underneath the sleeve. Hit a bump, and it would touch the body underneath, shorting out the headlights. In my case, it was the headlight switch that acted like a fusible link and opened up first (although not until after a lot of wiring insulation has melted).