Cruise Control/Foot Rest

[DanNagy]

1. I am planning a long trip with my 74 TR6 next summer, and wonder if it is possible to put cruise control on it. I am not soft, but think that might be welcome on a two thousand mile trip. I have no idea how that mght work with webber carbs. My '73 Fiat Spider had a crude sort of cruise control that fixed the throttle. I don't expect that there is anything, but thought I would ask the experts.

2. I want to add a footwell rest for the left foot. For me, this is a serious omission in the car. Is there a bolt on one available, or should my shop just fashion one?

Thanks for your time. -d

 

[70herald]

There was a discussion about this about a year ago? someone will chime in

however as I recall this is what was recommended
https://www.amazon.com/Audiovox-CCS100-Universal-Vacuum-Control/dp/B00029WQTW

I thinking about adding one to my Herald but of course I need to finish putting it back together first.

 

[swift6]

Early TR6's had a footswitch for the high beams. It was placed on a bracket that bolted to the sidewall of the footwell in the perfect place for a dead pedal. I'm not sure if later TR6's have the threaded fasteners for that bracket but I wouldn't doubt if they still do.

BTW, dead pedals have a much more sporting purpose than just being a foot rest. Though they can work well for that as well.

 

[71tr]

Regarding the foot rest pedal; I just ran across someone's TR6 website over the weekend showing a custom aluminum foot rest they had installed. It looked great, I'll see if I can backtrack and find the URL.

 

[DanNagy]

Thank you gentlemen, I'll forward your comments to the guy doing my restoration. He has a few TR6's in his "teen car lot" and might have a dead pedal there. The custom aluminum pedal would be a good choice, too.

I am not sure what you mean, Shawn, by the dead pedal having a sporting purpose. Perhaps you mean it serves to brace you in tight corners?

______________________

Thanks 70Herald for the info on the cruise control. I just need one setting on it for 70mph while cruising on Rt. 70 throught the midwest. I am surprised to see that there is something, and hope it works. The question now is how/where to hide the controls.

 

[swift6]

I am not sure what you mean, Shawn, by the dead pedal having a sporting purpose. Perhaps you mean it serves to brace you in tight corners?

That's exactly what I mean. Allows you to shove your bum back into the seat, and hold it there, during quick corners while your caning it. That way you don't have to hang onto the steering wheel and can keep a light, controlling grip on it instead.

 

[TRMark]

I built this out of aluminum sign material for my TR4. I have posted the picture some time ago. It does help when autocrossing. Also, a good place to rest your foot on long drives.

 

[DNK]

Interesting carpet Mark,looks like some acoustical material I apply to walls.

 

[DanNagy]

Excellent. Thanks for taking the time to post this picture. I'll forward it along to the shop. -d

 

[TRMark]

Interesting carpet Mark,looks like some acoustical material I apply to walls.

It is indoor/outdoor carpet from Home Depot. I admit I am cheap. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif

 

[Brooklands]

Great illustration. I will have to see if something like that will fit in my TR3. I hate always having my foot sitting on the dimmer switch.

 

[Brosky]

Dan,

I don't know if I ever welcomed you to the forum, so Welcome!

I'm a former PA guy myself. My family was from the Johnstown area. They are still there, I'm here in sunny RI.

Good luck with the restoration.

 

[DanNagy]

Thanks, Paul, for the greetings, and for all your help.

This resotration has actually been a three-year project, and will be completed in November (I hope). The frame was excellent, and the body was okay so I have been concentrating on the mechanicals up to now. The suspension, drivetrain, engine, exhaust, cooling system, and interior have all been redone. I had it aligned to the tune of $350 - it's labor intensive. Now the transmission is being rebuilt, and an overdrive unit added. The car is being dissassembled this week, and after taking it apart, the shop advised me to go with new fenders and trunk lid. Because the frame was excellent, they will just wire brush it, paint, and coat it. The shop will keep the paint in the engine compartment (except the battery box) so that we still have some part of the car that is original. It is a 1974, but I want the rubber bumpers off. They will just put a chrome bolt throught the attach points so they could be put back on. Everything is being rechromed or replaced, and a new top put on. This car was a garage baby and only had 108,000 miles on it, but was in need and deserved this major overhaul.

I never expected to spend this kind of money, but I hate doing stuff half-*ssed. I keep telling myself that what I am spending is the same as a new Miata would cost - and what would I rather have? Of course, the answer is a "new" TR6.

 

[Brosky]

Dan,

You can get away with the bolts on the front, but there are notches cut out of the back of a 1974 bumper that allow the overriders to fit in differently than the later years. Go figure? The notches are on the top of the bumper at the rear, just under the black paint.

I hated mine so bad, that I had them welded over when I had the bumpers replated this spring. I did find spare 74 TR6 bumpers on ebay, that can be replated if I ever feel crazy enough to put those hideous things back on.

Here's mine from my website:

https://www.74tr6.com/bumperrechroming.htm

Good luck,

 

[Brosky]

Dan,

Here's what your back bumper will look like without the idiotic rubber bumpers. This slot is only on 74's. Maybe you got lucky and have a later rear bumper.

Notice the notches on each side that would be irritating probably only to someone as anal as me.

I also added a picture of the front and the two holes on each side that can be covered with a bolt or chrome cap. These were mine on the way to the plater. I decided to take "before" pics for insurance, just in case they got lost or disappeared somehow.

 

[DanNagy]

Oh, I see now what you mean. Yeah, that's awful. Well, the shop has spare bumpers I can rechrome instead. I'll ask about what I have. I hate to build a parts bin with this kind of stuff, but I need to keep the original stuff together. Thanks for sending this - it's best to send pictures to the shop. -d

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

Brosky and Dan,

I too am originally from Pa. I lived in a small town near Johnstown called Portage (some of my family is still there). -I've driven my 74 TR6 there and back.

That makes 3 people on the same forum topic, from the same area with the same 30+ year old car. Small world.

Jer

 

[DanNagy]

Wow, yours is even the same color! That looks nice with the white top. I was thinking about doing a caramel color top to match the interior, but that looks good. Is it difficult to keep clean? That's canvas, right?

I just bought a hard top for mine today, but now I wonder why I did that. I am not sure if I will ever use it. I thought it would be good for winter, but I will only take it out on sunny days when there isn't melting snow and salt on the roadway. Well, I'll see how it goes. They are easy enough to sell.

I'll be taking my 6 to KC and back next summer. I'll be moving to Switzerland from Korea, so I hope to get home a lot more. If you are planning to be in PA, let me know.

Looking at your picture makes me want to come home for a drive - especially in the fall. On a nice autumn day in PA with the top down, you can smell the fallen leaves of the maple, oak, and pine trees.. and feel the crisp air, and try to take in all the beauty of the flaming foilage coloring the mountainsides. Man-o-man, it makes me homesick to think about it as the rain is now pouring down in Seoul from the approaching typhoon.

I hope to be back for its maiden voyage in November. Maybe the weather will be kind to me.

 

[NutmegCT]

Just a thought - I too was wondering where to put my left foot when I drive.

My high beam button (standard for my TR3A) is similar to Mark's, but slightly lower.

So ... I cut a 1/4" thick square of wood into a U shape. It slips down behind the button, between the button and its bracket.

So when I drive, I can rest my foot on the button itself. The wooden "block" keeps the button from moving. I can just pull the block out if I want to drive at night.

Quick and easy to make, quick and easy to remove if needed.

Tom

 

[Brooklands]

Tom,
Any photos of the piece itself, and of the piece installed?
Sounds like a workable solution.