TR2/3/3A Coil issues

[Daves1957TR-3]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^6

So very true.

 

[NutmegCT]

So ... did we ever learn the why the original coil was replaced? Are the symptoms with the new Sport coil the same as with the old coil?

I'm still not sure why we're concentrating on the coil and/or condenser, as we don't know the problems before and after the coil was replaced. (I'm thinking a loose wire in the distributor ...).

TM

 

[2long]

I did not mean to leave out details about the original coil, and that may not even be the issue causing my problem, as some of you recognize. The original coil was replaced when the car began running poorly, and then stopped, and then there was no spark at the points. When I changed the coil and cleaned the points, the car started up and ran smooth for about 10 miles, and then sputtered going up a hill to my home. Then it started up the next day and ran pretty smooth, so I took it for a run, and it ran fine and then 5 miles out it sputtered and left me curbside. So I thought it was the coil I put in. I am doing the best I can to sort this logically and economically. I do appreciate the input and I am learning as I go.

Dan

 

[frankfast]

Never had a bad coil but have had a bad condenser and I suspect that is a more common problem. It reacted much as you've described. Worked for a bit until heated up and then sputtered.

 

[sp53]

Try a different gas station 2long. It sounds simple, but it has happened to me a few times and given very similar symptoms.
steve

 

[2long]

OK, the curse has been lifted. It turned out that my issue was a worn ignition switch. With my old original FA series ignition switch, the key was jiggling to a dead spot, aided by the key fob dangling near the gear change knob. In certain positions the key was in the right place, but just a little off one way or another was a poor connection spot that caused the intermittent current. What an odyssey sorting that out! I thought the TR gods were punishing me for spending so much time getting the Doretti going, and maybe they were. Just removing the fob pretty much fixes the thing by taking away the weight and jostling of the fob. However, I think a new switch is in order, but I sure wish I could get an FA coded one! Any leads?

Dan

 

[CJD]

Glad you figured it out! Worst case you can swap the original core into a new switch assembly.

 

[TR3driver]

Can you swap your old cylinder into a new housing? If that doesn't work, you should be able to drill out the rivets and transfer the new switch onto the old lock. Since it's hidden behind the dash, I just replaced the rivets with short round-head screws and nuts.

 

[6TTR3A]

Dan,
Look for my email.
Frank Conklin

 

[sp53]

Glad you reported back 2Long so often people never let the forum know. Plus I remember, I had that problem back in 1993. I remember because of the girl I had with me. Plus I let her get away, but not the car

 

[2long]

"I had that problem back in 1993. I remember because of the girl I had with me. Plus I let her get away, but not the car"

Great story! I had a pretty good one with this recent issue. I thought I had the issue licked with the cleaned points, so I took my sister for a cruise and ended up stranded roadside with her. But the car community came through, as I called a friend and he showed up, but not before at least two other folks stopped by with their thoughts and suggestions. One dude even gave me a tow strap that my friend and I used to pull the car back to my home, up a steep hill (extinct volcano). On the way up the hill, the tow strap broke because it was really a come-along strap not designed for more that 2,000 pounds. But driving behind me was a big old truck with an off-duty fireman driving, who stopped with me and loaned me a much beefier tow strap, which his fireman friend had made from electrical cable sheathing. My sister was blown away at all the fuss and help!

Cheers

Dan

 

[CJD]

Yep, these little cars attract just about everyone!

I did have one time the TR3 started running poorly and dying intermittently. It turned out the main power supply wire into the ignition switch had loosened under the set screw over time. I've started tinning the ends of the wires with solder and have not had any more trouble. No women were envolved, though...bummer.