Brake Fluid Everywhere!!

[tony barnhill]

So, UPS delivered my new EEZIBLEED with the proper brake master cylinder cap for a '74-1/2 brake master cylinder from Moss &....

Today I started bleeding the brakes (everything at the wheels is new) on my '74-1/2 RB GT...20psi air pressure & no leaks in engine compartment or at wheels...under thev rear of the car there was lots of air but I got fluid flowing to both.

Went back to check the bleed container & it was empty...okay, no big deal...the lines & the master cylinder were all empty anyway from the rebuild...so I refilled the container with fluid & it immediately disappeared under 20psi air pressure.

Where'd it go? No leaks at wheels.

Suddenly, through the floorboard scupper came a stream of brake fluid.....yep, driver floor carpet soaked & standing brake fluid....darn, darn, darn!!

I didn't rebuild the master cylinder when I did everything else! Lesson learned.....New master cylinder!!!

Now I'm worried about my clutch master cylinder! The clutch works but I installed a new slave cylinder while I was redoing brakes....

Just another Saturday in the GarageMahal!

(But, good news is that Jerri's taking me out for a nice dinner tonight! The mail just delivered her annual tobacco lease check so she's feeling 'wealthy'..hehehe....her family farm in Tennessee has a huge tobacco base that she leases to farmers who want to grow more tobacco than their farm's tobacco base allows. Our daughter calls her mom the "tobacco baroness"...hehehe)

 

[DrEntropy]

Lower the pressure to around 10~12# Tony. Works just as well and you have less likelyhood of pushing fluid around a seal.

 

[tony barnhill]

Probably so, Doc...but, do you think that now that I've pushed fluid past the seals I can trust the MC like it is?

 

[DrEntropy]

Nope. You may even have inverted one of the seals in it. Out it comes. Inspect it and rebuild/replace as indicated.

 

[tony barnhill]

Yep - at least the pedal cover came off easily!!

 

[Scott_Hower]

Tobacco Baroness... I love it!

Agree, 10Psi max on an EziBleed. Dunno why. but I prefer to suck fluid through with a MityVac.

 

[tony barnhill]

Well, everything is off except the 2 bolts holding the pedal box to the firewall.....tomorrow...

(Don't you just love it when Bentley says, "disengage the brake pedal, remove the brake lines, remove the fixing bolts & remove the master cylinder from the box assembly." Yeah, right! After you remove the pedals, & remove the box assembly from the car - when you finally have it on the work bench!)

I'm going to clean up & go to dinner - look out Ruth's Chris Steak House!!

 

[DrEntropy]

heh. We just finished Italian sausage sammiges on the grill, onions 'n peppers sauteed, artichoke hearts with black olives for a 'salad'... red wine for lubricant.

Happily sated now. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

 

[Steve_S]

The directions state the maximum pressure for the tool, which is far less than 20. I believe it's 12 PSI.

 

[DrEntropy]

Actually, the instructions state that the maximum pressure is 20. Far less is needed for the actual task. 10~12 seems to work best for me.

 

[tony barnhill]

The directions state the maximum pressure for the tool, which is far less than 20. I believe it's 12 PSI.

From the Gunson EEXIBLEED Handbook:

Instructions for Bleeding Brakes
1.........
2..........
3........
4............
5........
6. Pressurize using the spare wheel at 20 psi. max. by connecting the air line to the tyre valve. (This pressure should not be exceeded for efficient bleeding).
7..........
8.........
9.............

...& Doc,you're correct, less than 20 psi is probably best -10 to 12 like you say....but you've either gotta experiment or have somebody who already uses one to tell you that. There's a place back in the rear of the handbook that alludes to that:

"The recommended setting of pressure for the device (20 psi) is intended purely as a guide. In some cases a lower pressur will give adequate flow, possibly as low as 10 psi. In other cases the full pressure of the spare tyre will be better. In some vehicles, a higher pressure (over 10 pis) is better for bleeding the brakes of the rear wheels."

And I was starting with the rear wheels....

 

[DrEntropy]

It works well at ten for the rears too, Tony. The over all hydraulic pressure will equalize thru the system, you'll have plenty of pressure on the relatively short rear run lines on an MGB to do the whole system.

You're good. I just wish the manual for the tool would suggest starting lower and building up rather than stating a "maximum".

 

[Steve_S]

That's strange. I'm positive my instructions said 12 PSI or similar. I'll triple check it when I get a chance. Perhaps the newer ones have an uprated PSI rating.

 

[DrEntropy]

Very possible, Steve. This one I have is OLD. The "instructions" are what look to be a poorly made Xerox-like copy. One-sided piece of paper with the print skewed on angle. I don't think I ever tried to use it at "maximum" pressure. We even made adaptors for it to fit up with a regulated air compressor supply.

 

[tony barnhill]

Mine's brand new & the handbook from the manufacturer (part # G4062)

 

[Stewart]

Mine also had 20psi max in the destructions. Great tool when your working alone.

 

[tony barnhill]

Brake Pedal Box Is Out!!

....but I don't know how I'll ever get it back in!

Remember, this is a '74-1/2 GT w/AC....there's 1 bolt through the firewall holding the pedal box in place that's behind the steering column support bracket & almost impossible to get to.....the other's not much easier to get to but at least I can get my fingers on it.

...& who the heck thought it'd be a good idea to put the heater control cable through the pedal box itself?

I needed to remove the factory steering wheel anyway to install my 14" Tourist Trophy wood wheel - that gave me some room....lowering the steering column also allowed me some visibility....I guess tomorrow I'll pull the column completely out to see if I can get to the support bracket to remove it completely so I can get the 1 bolt back in when I've rebuilt both my master cylinders.

Pain in the butt!

 

[jlaird]

Re: Brake Pedal Box Is Out!!

Might as well...........clean it all up while it is out.

 

[tony barnhill]

Re: Brake Pedal Box Is Out!!

Yep, just tossed the pedal box in the parts cleaner...ordered what I need for the master cylinders....am cleaning up the firewall area under it all right now (need to find some Blaze paint in a spray can).

But, gotta stop to go take the '63 Midget engine to the machine shop....

 

[Ed Kaler]

Re: Brake Pedal Box Is Out!!

Read my "lips", guys I've been using one for as long as the thing has been out (mine org'ly from UK<G> so it wasn't even available here!!) EIGHT pounds is BEST!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer.gif

And this oughta irk Tony (LOL), I can do a MGTD in less than TEN minutes with it!!!!

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

Ed