Aluminum Finish

[Rut]

Good morning all,
I'm redoing the aluminum on the Bugeye and wanted to know what the original finish was for both the cockpit surround and windshield frame and posts. I'm either going with original or have it polished and anodized. Also, any recomendations on who to do this type of work? Jack gave me the name of a place in Florida and they do good quality work, but it would be nice if I could find something closer.
Thanks, Rut

 

[PAUL161]

As I remember them when new, I believe it was anodized like a B windshield frame. Could be wrong though, CRS seems to be working overtime lately! PJ

 

[jlaird]

Cockpit surround, doors and rear were anodized, front covered with interior color vinyl. Windshield posts light gray paint.

 

[Rut]

Jack,
Thanks for the info. As we discussed I contacted the people in S FL regarding anodizing, but I don't know if the aluminum should be a high polish, med, low, sanded, bead blasted, etc. I've seen just about every type of finish out there and they all need to be re-anodized or they will oxidize in a hurry.
Thanks, Rut

 

[regularman]

I have done it, but its hard to get the anodized off of aluminum. You have to use oven cleaner, drain O,etc. Then when it is removed you can polish the aluminum like chrome but it doesn't have any of the protection of the anodized aluminum and will get real ugly in a hurry.
I did this with my grill surround on the 71 midget but I clear coated it with some stuff about as soon as I got it polished.
If that company removes the anodized and then can re anodize then that is awesome.

 

[Rut]

Kim,
That's my goal to have the cockpit surround and windshield re-done by a shop and re-anodized. My main question is what finish is original? Brushed, polished, bead blasted, etc. and does anyone have a shop that they would recommend?
Thanks, Rut

 

[rkep01]

Rut - Might want to check this out. Far cheaper than anodizing. If it doesn't work, you could always go back to anodizing.

 

[Rut]

rkep01,
there's no link or anything with you reply.
Thanks, Rut

 

[rkep01]

Sorry 'bout that. I'm sure I'm pre-alzheimer's. Here's the link: https://www.sharkhide.com/

 

[RickB]

Sorry 'bout that. I'm sure I'm pre-alzheimer's. Here's the link: https://www.sharkhide.com/

The correct term is: Mild Cognitive Impairment

Then there is also CRSS
Can't Remember 'Stuff' Syndrome

 

[rkep01]

Think I have all three

 

[dklawson]

If you take the frame to the anodizer they will be able to strip the old anodizing off. What is left will be a satin finished bare aluminum (much like what Kim will get from using oven cleaner). That can be anodized again as is but it will have a matte appearance. Most platers are not going to polish or otherwise prep the surface for you but it is certainly worth asking about if you don't want a matte finish. If they won't polish the frame you will probably want to take the bare aluminum home and polish it to the level you want, then take it back for final anodizing.

When you discuss anodizing with them there is soft-coat and hard-coat. The hard coat will be thicker and last longer but cost more. It also doesn't take color as well. However, the surface of the hard-coat can be filled with things like Teflon to give it long lasting protection.

 

[Rut]

Guys,
Thanks for the replys and the Sharkhide looks very interresting! My goal is to replicate the original factory finish either myself or have someone more experienced do it and have it anodized. I'll call around to the people who advertise anodizing and find out what services they offer and research the original finish/texture prior to anodizing.
Thanks for the help! Rut

 

[jlaird]

Polish Rut. the outfit I pointed you to will have the whole thing done, call em.

 

[regularman]

These little aluminum bits is another place I might try the Mirrachrome paint.
I got to pull the 77 windshield apart to put rubber in it at some point. I got two windshields so why not experiment?

 

[Rut]

Jack,
I thought I could find a place closer and wanted to check around. Now I understand why you used them and I'll give them a call when I get to that point (hope sooner rather than later).
Thanks, Rut

 

[jlaird]

LOL, Kay said Miss Agatha deserved only the best.

 

[Guest]

When you discuss anodizing with them there is soft-coat and hard-coat. The hard coat will be thicker and last longer but cost more. It also doesn't take color as well. .

Never heard of soft coat before. I guess they don't leave it in the tank as long. If he's "clear" anodizing it color with be the same as they don't use dye for that. I anodized some stuff at home before. It's not that hard but time consuming getting everything set up right. The problem is getting a container big enough to do the surround. That's a lot of acid too. I'll probably cost the same either way.

 

[smaceng]

Anodize is usually called hard coat. the problem with anodize is that the color result is not what you may want. It is best to have a sample done to check out the color...and what I really mean is shade...usually a bit grey.
Soft coat is called iridite, which is a similar process, i.e. the ozidation of the surface layer...but a thinner layer. I would suggest this as it protects the surface from further oxidation, and gives less grey to the surface. Also, a good layer of wax is good too. That is what I did to mine. So far so good after 1 1/2 years.
Scott in CA

 

[Rut]

I think I'll follow Jacks advice since I've seen Miss Agatha in person and the finish is exactly what I want. Original with no imperfections, good protection, and decent turn around. I just wish they wern't so far away!
Thanks all, Rut