Windshield to body seal

I have spent the last 3 days (unsuccessfully) trying to inset the rubber seal into the bottom of a Bugeye windshield frame. There is no way that this seal will slide into the groove at the bottom of the frame. What am I missing? Is there a special tool that does this job? Lubrication with talcum powder or soap or grease does not help. After 12 or 15 inches into the groove the seal jams solid.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Your help will be appreciated.

You've got a seal that does not fit from one of the usual sources. McGregors in Toronto produces a correct part. Bugeye Guy does carry McGregor's Windshield Seals I do believe. $24.95. I got one from him and 5 minute Install job. I kid you not. Well maybe 10. NFI but I know his seal fits. McGregors, always an add in the back of Classic Motorsports Mag. You need to call them. They have an 800 # which someone will post. They do not respond to e-mails. Oh BTW order one of their Top of Cowl to Bonnet Gaskets as well. Seals the back of the BE hood when latched, lowered. Again a case of a part that fits correctly.

and MacGregor is not exactly speedy Gonzales when it somes to answering calls either

I ended up using both the windshield to body and the windshield glass glazing from Moss and I knew the fitment issues up front, but ordered them anyway. I attached the windshield frame to a solid structure, in my case it was the garage door track, with a strap and used a little soapy water as a lubricant. I inserted the seal and pulled by hand until it started getting hard to move and switched to visegrips to pull and my hand to push. I was surprised that the seal slid in without too much of a fight! Make sure the seal groove is clean and burr free or it could be really tough! They also make a lubricant that the pros use that’s really slippery, but my Dawn and water mix worked fine.
Rut

Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry for the useful information regarding my seal problem.

I had previously been told that the MacGregor seal is the real deal, so I bought one. However the profile of the macGregor seal is more bulbous than the usual one from Victoria British and on my car made it difficult to fit the windshield without putting severe pressure on the frame to get the mounting holes to line up. I was not happy with the result. Also the MacGregor seal rubber is harder than the Victoria British seal so is less pliable.

The MacGregor seal slipped into the windshield groove easily (as pointed out above) but I was not happy with the result. The VB seal is of a much softer material and also a lower/narrower profile, but with the frustrating complication that gave rise to my original post - it just would not go into the groove.

So to resolve the issue I took a length of 1 inch square metal tube and milled a 3/16 inch slot in it to hold the VB seal with the bulbous side inside the tube and the lip or key on the outside. This arrangement held the rubber straight and firm and allowed my to run it over a belt sander. This reduced the thickness of the key evenly and sufficiently so that it then slid in much the same as the MacGregor seal did.

Also, the thinner profile of the VB seal allows the windshield frame to sit on the car without having to force the mounting holes to line up.

I guess this is what a restoration project is all about.

Thanks again for the help and guidance given.

Hbf, having the same fitment issue with my VB windshield/body seal. I like the square metal tube and slot idea that you used reduce the thickness of the key. Was the square tube the same length as the seal or did you use something shorter and just readjust the seal position as you worked your way along the key? Thanks.

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf...-Bugeye-Bringing-Miss-Eva-back-to-life/page15
Post #300 shows how to attach the seal to the bottom of the windshield using a flat blade.



Jan 2016LocationRichmond VAPosts376Thanks

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[h=2]Body to Windshield Seal[/h]

I admire anyone who can pull the seal through the bottom of the aluminum windshield track.
It is not very fast but it is not frustrating.
Slide one side of the rubber into the track.
Then using soapy water and a flat screwdriver the other side can be pushed in place.​

Sometimes putting the seal in a bucket of hot water, softens it up to handle it better.

In response to Jetmech14’s question:

square tube is just longer than the length of the belt sander bed. This holds the seal off the abrasive surface when not held rigidly by the tube. Feed the seal through as you grind the key down. Go carefully and test fit so as not to over-grind.

Slot in the tube is slightly offset to accommodate the offset of design of the seal.

Thanks everyone for the additional tips and thank you Hbf for the clarification.