• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Who's using what to treat rusty stuff TR3

lordwestbrook

Freshman Member
Offline
Hey guys!


Is there some space aged goop/paint/treatment that people are using to prevent rust on inner panels/tub/rotted seam areas and such? Im thinking of "encapsulating" rusty seams/corners rather than welding in new bits. Because I suck at welding. I've attached some pics of areas looking at. Inner stuff nobody would see.

Cheers and thank you!

Jeff
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2020-07-20 at 5.50.13 PM.jpg
    Screen Shot 2020-07-20 at 5.50.13 PM.jpg
    74.7 KB · Views: 166
  • Screen Shot 2020-07-20 at 5.50.30 PM.jpg
    Screen Shot 2020-07-20 at 5.50.30 PM.jpg
    51.8 KB · Views: 164
  • Screen Shot 2020-07-20 at 5.49.57 PM.jpg
    Screen Shot 2020-07-20 at 5.49.57 PM.jpg
    94.8 KB · Views: 166

Leatherman

Member
Country flag
Offline
I used Eastwood products. They have a couple different anti rust products each to target different parts of the car body panels and inner and outer frame. They have a black paste patch that fills holes and seals and gets rock hard when dried. Don’t get it on your hands. Their inner frame sealer has a two foot extension hose that you can get back in inner panels and inner sills to seal and hopefully stop rust for a while. Your car is a lot rougher condition than mine was. I totally dismantled my body and frame and had both sandblasted before I started patching and repairing. A lot more problems lie under old paint and corrosion that you can’t see. You can try to cover them up but in a few years they come back out and ruin your paint job again.
 
OP
L

lordwestbrook

Freshman Member
Offline
I used Eastwood products. They have a couple different anti rust products each to target different parts of the car body panels and inner and outer frame. They have a black paste patch that fills holes and seals and gets rock hard when dried. Don’t get it on your hands. Their inner frame sealer has a two foot extension hose that you can get back in inner panels and inner sills to seal and hopefully stop rust for a while. Your car is a lot rougher condition than mine was. I totally dismantled my body and frame and had both sandblasted before I started patching and repairing. A lot more problems lie under old paint and corrosion that you can’t see. You can try to cover them up but in a few years they come back out and ruin your paint job again.

Thanks Leatherman- I'll check out Eastwood. I doubt I'll ever be painting this car- the goal is to make a mechanically sound (albeit ugly) driver so this might be just what the doctor ordered.
 

CJD

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Bondo and epoxy are the only space age goops I know. Problem is they don’t last!?! Once you have good metal, epoxy and urethane are the preferred encapsulating goops (epoxy primer, laquer, and urethane clear).
 

PeterK

Yoda
Offline
I would flood it with phosphoric acid to etch out the surface before coating with anything. Gallon jugs at Home Depot in the paint isle.
 

sp53

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Your car looks very solid to me. The end for the rubber seal is bent in and folded, but should straighten. The last tr3 I did the floor bottom where it meets the fire wall was missing; yours looks good. The only thing I see with your car so far is that it dirty. Are there spots, like the bottom of the front fender, inner sills, or the floor that is rotted? The vehicle I am working in now I am going to use some encapsulating products also. The last one I did I totally disassembled--- but it always depends on many variables and time being a big one. I need to see more of your car before I can formulate a complete opinion, but from I see I would not cut it up for welding.
 
OP
L

lordwestbrook

Freshman Member
Offline
Your car looks very solid to me. The end for the rubber seal is bent in and folded, but should straighten. The last tr3 I did the floor bottom where it meets the fire wall was missing; yours looks good. The only thing I see with your car so far is that it dirty. Are there spots, like the bottom of the front fender, inner sills, or the floor that is rotted? The vehicle I am working in now I am going to use some encapsulating products also. The last one I did I totally disassembled--- but it always depends on many variables and time being a big one. I need to see more of your car before I can formulate a complete opinion, but from I see I would not cut it up for welding.


So the car is pretty rough overall at first glance, but structurally pretty sound, save for a decent sized hole in the pass side floor. The Scuttle has rot at the ends which I wouldnt know where to begin replacing/repairing at the moment, maybe I'll address that at a later date after she's up and running and I've had some fun with the car. Since I just don't have the time to do everything correctly (cutting and welding) I think I'm going to try the rust encapsulator route where needed.

Thought I've only gotten into the front drivers portion so far on this can of worms. More pics TK as I peel this onion. I really want it to stop and go safely, not at all really concerned about cosmetics I just want to drive the heck out of it.
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2020-07-23 at 2.22.53 PM.jpg
    Screen Shot 2020-07-23 at 2.22.53 PM.jpg
    90.4 KB · Views: 127
  • Screen Shot 2020-07-23 at 2.23.13 PM.jpg
    Screen Shot 2020-07-23 at 2.23.13 PM.jpg
    81.5 KB · Views: 116
  • Screen Shot 2020-07-23 at 2.23.40 PM.jpg
    Screen Shot 2020-07-23 at 2.23.40 PM.jpg
    92.4 KB · Views: 128

LarryK

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Online
Eastwood's POR-15 is good, but really be careful of the fumes. It is a brain melter.
 

quadrafake

Freshman Member
Country flag
Offline
I am in a very similar situation, so I will be following this thread and your progress closely. I was planning to encapsulate and spray those types of areas myself, but am open to the suggestions you're getting also.
 

James A Martin

Senior Member
Country flag
Offline
Hey guys!


Is there some space aged goop/paint/treatment that people are using to prevent rust on inner panels/tub/rotted seam areas and such? Im thinking of "encapsulating" rusty seams/corners rather than welding in new bits. Because I suck at welding. I've attached some pics of areas looking at. Inner stuff nobody would see.

Cheers and thank you!

Jeff
Jeff,
When you get to smaller parts, and IMO you will, you might look into electrolysis. I had never used it and since the first time I have used it on brackets to blocks, wheels and anything I can fit into a container.
You can search You Tube for

Rust Removal by Electrolysis: Use in the Restoration of Machinery​

Impressive results...
Jim
 

equiprx

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
Hey guys!


Is there some space aged goop/paint/treatment that people are using to prevent rust on inner panels/tub/rotted seam areas and such? Im thinking of "encapsulating" rusty seams/corners rather than welding in new bits. Because I suck at welding. I've attached some pics of areas looking at. Inner stuff nobody would see.

Cheers and thank you!

Jeff
SEM products makes a rust converter called Rust-Mort.
It works sort of but dissolves surrounding paint, so masking is a must.
 

LarryK

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Online
SEM products are good. Eastwood has quite a lot of different things, their incapsulator comes with a spray attacment to get into places, but sometimes holes need drilling and plugged.
 
Country flag
Offline
I have used a product called Gluvit on my fiberglass boat deck restoration. It is a thin, free flowing 2 part epoxy that is touted to get into hairline cracks and remain flexible. It is commonly used to seal aluminum boats whose rivets are leaking. It is damaged by sunlight so it should be painted over so the next guy who does paint the car wont have a mess.
 

Gliderman8

Great Pumpkin
Country flag
Offline
Jeff,
When you get to smaller parts, and IMO you will, you might look into electrolysis. I had never used it and since the first time I have used it on brackets to blocks, wheels and anything I can fit into a container.
You can search You Tube for

Rust Removal by Electrolysis: Use in the Restoration of Machinery​

Impressive results...
Jim
I will second this method. It worked very well on every part I used it for. As long as you can fit the part in the tub of solution it will work. I used it on a rusted gas tank and it came out great.
 

jcw67spitfire

Freshman Member
Country flag
Offline
I'm seeing from Hamish Racing on the UK magazine reviewing best rust converters that the top-rated product and the one I plan on using (not on my '67 Spitfire MK2 that's garage kept by me and has been garage kept for probably over 4 decades by the previous 2 owners) on a 2001 Honda S2000 I recently purchased will be the Jenolite Rust Converter Spray (not the liquid) after I do some light wire brushing. All my work will be underneath the car while on jack stands (I probably will wear a N95 mask and happen to have some from several years ago when they were still only $7 each before coronavirus), and for good measure after the Jenolite has been applied and cured out for awhile, I'm going with a new product from Blaster (recently used their penetrating oil/catalyst on my MK2 valves) that I could only get through online ordering through the Home Depot website, called Blaster Surface Shield in an aerosol spray. The S2000 was garage kept for a few years by the previous owner, but before that somebody must have had it farther north where the roads are salted or near the ocean.
 

Jim_Stevens

Jedi Warrior
Gold
Country flag
Online
I powder coated everything I could, and used the POR-15 line for the rest. Direct from them, not thru eastwood
 

apbos

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
I did the same with mine as Jim_Stevens. When the POR 15 is nearly dry I paint them with an Enamel Black to match the original color. POR15 will fade if exposed to the sun.
Regsrds
Paul
 

LarryK

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Online
I used the POR-15 to treat the exposed rust on my 58 Jag sedan. It is in the garage but wanted to keep any rust from spreading because of opening the doors during rain and snow. Nasty stuff, becareful. Can damage lungs. Used a whole qt. and two years later hard as a rock and no new rust. Will blast gone, before prime and paint. Was very good on chassis, and coated with chassis black easily. If using indoors, open all doors and windows,respirator recommended, do not open dood to house. I held can while applying, won't do that again, had headaches for a month, I opened all doors and had a fan going until dried in a unattached garage.
 

apbos

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
Larry
I always use it in an open area, it is nasty. I use a syringe to remove what I need from a can, a little goes a long way. Then use plastic film to cover the lid and seal. Bag it and put it in the freezer. It keeps much longer when cold and away from air. It is not paint over rust. Clean, Phos acid, paint. It will repel paint when it is dry, so paint when tacky. Chassis, floors and areas of the body where moister can pool are where it works for me, but I live in a relatively dry climate.
P
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
K TR2/3/3A Centering the brake rotors(disk)s in the front brake calipers using the shims? Triumph 5
T Looking for recommendations re using a Seacan for vehicle storage Spridgets 7
J TR4/4A Getting electrical shock from horn button when using the horn. Triumph 9
TomMull Using my press to remove stuck Girling caliper pistons Restoration & Tools 13
Oldi.Tec Spare Part Re-Manufacturing using 3D-Printing Restoration & Tools 5
K TR2/3/3A Using a dial gauge to adjust valves when rocker arm surfaces are worn? Triumph 9
Patrick67BJ8 Special Tuning using AF Equipment by Innovative Motorsports Austin Healey 27
H Is there any difference in using the 1275 Float Bowl that have a different casting? Spridgets 6
CJD General Tech Boeing using Lucas parts? Triumph 7
TRMark General Tech Anybody Using Star Tron Triumph 2
Martinld123 Problem Using LED lights with Existing Brake Lamps Austin Healey 20
G TR4/4A Using existing fuel line Triumph 5
D Wanted How to locate my father's past Austin Healey1963 3000 Mark III using its Vin # Austin Healey Classifieds 5
B TR6 Timing using a vacuum gauge Triumph 13
Gerald_Gordon TR4/4A Attaching badges without using a badge bar Triumph 5
M TR2/3/3A What Lead Substitute + Octane Boosters is everyone using in there gas tanks? Triumph 14
Basil Admin Note Using FREE BCF Classifieds Triumph Classifieds 0
Basil Admin Note Using FREE BCF Classifieds Spridgets Classified 0
Basil Admin Note Using FREE BCF Classifieds MG Classifieds 0
Basil Admin Note Using FREE BCF Classifieds Jaguar Classifieds 0
Basil Admin Note Using FREE BCF Classifieds Other British Classifieds 0
Basil Admin Note Using FREE BCF Classifieds Austin Healey Classifieds 0
Basil Admn Note Using Prefixes to filter threads of interest Triumph 5
KVH TR4/4A Using Drill to Spin Oil Pump Shaft Triumph 10
J Bypassing battery cutoff switch, using is as anti-theft only? Austin Healey 20
KVH TR4/4A Using the Engine Stand Triumph 3
K TR2/3/3A Clutch bleed using"gravity bleed" method? Triumph 4
KVH General TR Using an Old Fuel Pump Triumph 3
aseriesspares Spitfire What Gearbox are you using. Spitfire / Midget 1500 Triumph 2
aseriesspares What Gearbox are you using. Midget 1500 Spridgets 5
J BJ8 carb sync using a Uni-Syn, can you actually use it? Austin Healey 42
Rut 5 speed conversion using the Datsun clutch assembly Spridgets 10
bthompson Using the brakes kills the engine! Any ideas why? Spridgets 17
K TR2/3/3A Using Moss front end alignment gauge? Triumph 6
M Healey Overdrive Accumulator Piston using O-Ring Seal Up-date Feedback Austin Healey 4
J Does a texas cooler make a real difference ? I now am using an a moss flex fan ! Austin Healey 24
drambuie Anyone using flame thrower Electronic distributor Austin Healey 6
Q TR2/3/3A Using DOT 5 Brake Fluid On TR3A Triumph 34
F Using 12 point ARP style rod and main bolts Spridgets 9
Nelson Using timing light Spridgets 17
M Anyone using a MaxJax on a BN2 ? Austin Healey 9
58Custom A14/A15 engine users: What yall using for headers? Spridgets 11
S TR2/3/3A Using a timing light for setting TR3 Timing Triumph 4
justin_mercier TR6 "new" steering rack for TR6 ? Anyone using one ? Triumph 5
T Using Midget Suspension parts on Nash Metropolitan MG 10
A Wedge Using TR7 Main Bearing Studs on a TR6: how to note Triumph 7
K Paging Martx-5...What valve gap are you using? Triumph 0
T using UNI-SYN tool Triumph 46
B Using an MG properly MG 7
T Anyone using an LED light like this Triumph 39

Similar threads

Top