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TR2/3/3A Who's using what to treat rusty stuff TR3

lordwestbrook

Freshman Member
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Hey guys!


Is there some space aged goop/paint/treatment that people are using to prevent rust on inner panels/tub/rotted seam areas and such? Im thinking of "encapsulating" rusty seams/corners rather than welding in new bits. Because I suck at welding. I've attached some pics of areas looking at. Inner stuff nobody would see.

Cheers and thank you!

Jeff
 

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Leatherman

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I used Eastwood products. They have a couple different anti rust products each to target different parts of the car body panels and inner and outer frame. They have a black paste patch that fills holes and seals and gets rock hard when dried. Don’t get it on your hands. Their inner frame sealer has a two foot extension hose that you can get back in inner panels and inner sills to seal and hopefully stop rust for a while. Your car is a lot rougher condition than mine was. I totally dismantled my body and frame and had both sandblasted before I started patching and repairing. A lot more problems lie under old paint and corrosion that you can’t see. You can try to cover them up but in a few years they come back out and ruin your paint job again.
 
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lordwestbrook

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I used Eastwood products. They have a couple different anti rust products each to target different parts of the car body panels and inner and outer frame. They have a black paste patch that fills holes and seals and gets rock hard when dried. Don’t get it on your hands. Their inner frame sealer has a two foot extension hose that you can get back in inner panels and inner sills to seal and hopefully stop rust for a while. Your car is a lot rougher condition than mine was. I totally dismantled my body and frame and had both sandblasted before I started patching and repairing. A lot more problems lie under old paint and corrosion that you can’t see. You can try to cover them up but in a few years they come back out and ruin your paint job again.

Thanks Leatherman- I'll check out Eastwood. I doubt I'll ever be painting this car- the goal is to make a mechanically sound (albeit ugly) driver so this might be just what the doctor ordered.
 

CJD

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Bondo and epoxy are the only space age goops I know. Problem is they don’t last!?! Once you have good metal, epoxy and urethane are the preferred encapsulating goops (epoxy primer, laquer, and urethane clear).
 

PeterK

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I would flood it with phosphoric acid to etch out the surface before coating with anything. Gallon jugs at Home Depot in the paint isle.
 

sp53

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Your car looks very solid to me. The end for the rubber seal is bent in and folded, but should straighten. The last tr3 I did the floor bottom where it meets the fire wall was missing; yours looks good. The only thing I see with your car so far is that it dirty. Are there spots, like the bottom of the front fender, inner sills, or the floor that is rotted? The vehicle I am working in now I am going to use some encapsulating products also. The last one I did I totally disassembled--- but it always depends on many variables and time being a big one. I need to see more of your car before I can formulate a complete opinion, but from I see I would not cut it up for welding.
 
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lordwestbrook

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Your car looks very solid to me. The end for the rubber seal is bent in and folded, but should straighten. The last tr3 I did the floor bottom where it meets the fire wall was missing; yours looks good. The only thing I see with your car so far is that it dirty. Are there spots, like the bottom of the front fender, inner sills, or the floor that is rotted? The vehicle I am working in now I am going to use some encapsulating products also. The last one I did I totally disassembled--- but it always depends on many variables and time being a big one. I need to see more of your car before I can formulate a complete opinion, but from I see I would not cut it up for welding.


So the car is pretty rough overall at first glance, but structurally pretty sound, save for a decent sized hole in the pass side floor. The Scuttle has rot at the ends which I wouldnt know where to begin replacing/repairing at the moment, maybe I'll address that at a later date after she's up and running and I've had some fun with the car. Since I just don't have the time to do everything correctly (cutting and welding) I think I'm going to try the rust encapsulator route where needed.

Thought I've only gotten into the front drivers portion so far on this can of worms. More pics TK as I peel this onion. I really want it to stop and go safely, not at all really concerned about cosmetics I just want to drive the heck out of it.
 

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LarryK

Obi Wan
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Eastwood's POR-15 is good, but really be careful of the fumes. It is a brain melter.
 

quadrafake

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I am in a very similar situation, so I will be following this thread and your progress closely. I was planning to encapsulate and spray those types of areas myself, but am open to the suggestions you're getting also.
 

James A Martin

Senior Member
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Hey guys!


Is there some space aged goop/paint/treatment that people are using to prevent rust on inner panels/tub/rotted seam areas and such? Im thinking of "encapsulating" rusty seams/corners rather than welding in new bits. Because I suck at welding. I've attached some pics of areas looking at. Inner stuff nobody would see.

Cheers and thank you!

Jeff
Jeff,
When you get to smaller parts, and IMO you will, you might look into electrolysis. I had never used it and since the first time I have used it on brackets to blocks, wheels and anything I can fit into a container.
You can search You Tube for

Rust Removal by Electrolysis: Use in the Restoration of Machinery​

Impressive results...
Jim
 

equiprx

Jedi Knight
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Hey guys!


Is there some space aged goop/paint/treatment that people are using to prevent rust on inner panels/tub/rotted seam areas and such? Im thinking of "encapsulating" rusty seams/corners rather than welding in new bits. Because I suck at welding. I've attached some pics of areas looking at. Inner stuff nobody would see.

Cheers and thank you!

Jeff
SEM products makes a rust converter called Rust-Mort.
It works sort of but dissolves surrounding paint, so masking is a must.
 

LarryK

Obi Wan
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SEM products are good. Eastwood has quite a lot of different things, their incapsulator comes with a spray attacment to get into places, but sometimes holes need drilling and plugged.
 
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I have used a product called Gluvit on my fiberglass boat deck restoration. It is a thin, free flowing 2 part epoxy that is touted to get into hairline cracks and remain flexible. It is commonly used to seal aluminum boats whose rivets are leaking. It is damaged by sunlight so it should be painted over so the next guy who does paint the car wont have a mess.
 

Gliderman8

Yoda
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Jeff,
When you get to smaller parts, and IMO you will, you might look into electrolysis. I had never used it and since the first time I have used it on brackets to blocks, wheels and anything I can fit into a container.
You can search You Tube for

Rust Removal by Electrolysis: Use in the Restoration of Machinery​

Impressive results...
Jim
I will second this method. It worked very well on every part I used it for. As long as you can fit the part in the tub of solution it will work. I used it on a rusted gas tank and it came out great.
 
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