TR2/3/3A Who's using what to treat rusty stuff TR3

[lordwestbrook]

Hey guys!


Is there some space aged goop/paint/treatment that people are using to prevent rust on inner panels/tub/rotted seam areas and such? Im thinking of "encapsulating" rusty seams/corners rather than welding in new bits. Because I suck at welding. I've attached some pics of areas looking at. Inner stuff nobody would see.

Cheers and thank you!

Jeff

 

[Leatherman]

I used Eastwood products. They have a couple different anti rust products each to target different parts of the car body panels and inner and outer frame. They have a black paste patch that fills holes and seals and gets rock hard when dried. Don’t get it on your hands. Their inner frame sealer has a two foot extension hose that you can get back in inner panels and inner sills to seal and hopefully stop rust for a while. Your car is a lot rougher condition than mine was. I totally dismantled my body and frame and had both sandblasted before I started patching and repairing. A lot more problems lie under old paint and corrosion that you can’t see. You can try to cover them up but in a few years they come back out and ruin your paint job again.

 

[lordwestbrook]

I used Eastwood products. They have a couple different anti rust products each to target different parts of the car body panels and inner and outer frame. They have a black paste patch that fills holes and seals and gets rock hard when dried. Don’t get it on your hands. Their inner frame sealer has a two foot extension hose that you can get back in inner panels and inner sills to seal and hopefully stop rust for a while. Your car is a lot rougher condition than mine was. I totally dismantled my body and frame and had both sandblasted before I started patching and repairing. A lot more problems lie under old paint and corrosion that you can’t see. You can try to cover them up but in a few years they come back out and ruin your paint job again.

Thanks Leatherman- I'll check out Eastwood. I doubt I'll ever be painting this car- the goal is to make a mechanically sound (albeit ugly) driver so this might be just what the doctor ordered.

 

[CJD]

Bondo and epoxy are the only space age goops I know. Problem is they don’t last!?! Once you have good metal, epoxy and urethane are the preferred encapsulating goops (epoxy primer, laquer, and urethane clear).

 

[PeterK]

I would flood it with phosphoric acid to etch out the surface before coating with anything. Gallon jugs at Home Depot in the paint isle.

 

[sp53]

Your car looks very solid to me. The end for the rubber seal is bent in and folded, but should straighten. The last tr3 I did the floor bottom where it meets the fire wall was missing; yours looks good. The only thing I see with your car so far is that it dirty. Are there spots, like the bottom of the front fender, inner sills, or the floor that is rotted? The vehicle I am working in now I am going to use some encapsulating products also. The last one I did I totally disassembled--- but it always depends on many variables and time being a big one. I need to see more of your car before I can formulate a complete opinion, but from I see I would not cut it up for welding.

 

[lordwestbrook]

Your car looks very solid to me. The end for the rubber seal is bent in and folded, but should straighten. The last tr3 I did the floor bottom where it meets the fire wall was missing; yours looks good. The only thing I see with your car so far is that it dirty. Are there spots, like the bottom of the front fender, inner sills, or the floor that is rotted? The vehicle I am working in now I am going to use some encapsulating products also. The last one I did I totally disassembled--- but it always depends on many variables and time being a big one. I need to see more of your car before I can formulate a complete opinion, but from I see I would not cut it up for welding.

So the car is pretty rough overall at first glance, but structurally pretty sound, save for a decent sized hole in the pass side floor. The Scuttle has rot at the ends which I wouldnt know where to begin replacing/repairing at the moment, maybe I'll address that at a later date after she's up and running and I've had some fun with the car. Since I just don't have the time to do everything correctly (cutting and welding) I think I'm going to try the rust encapsulator route where needed.

Thought I've only gotten into the front drivers portion so far on this can of worms. More pics TK as I peel this onion. I really want it to stop and go safely, not at all really concerned about cosmetics I just want to drive the heck out of it.

 

[LarryK]

Eastwood's POR-15 is good, but really be careful of the fumes. It is a brain melter.

 

[quadrafake]

I am in a very similar situation, so I will be following this thread and your progress closely. I was planning to encapsulate and spray those types of areas myself, but am open to the suggestions you're getting also.

 

[Hamish Racing]

this well known uk auto magazine did a test of rust converters

it may help ?

Best rust converters 2024 | Auto Express

We reveal which treatments are the most effective at keeping a cap on corrosion

www.autoexpress.co.uk

H

 

[James A Martin]

Hey guys!


Is there some space aged goop/paint/treatment that people are using to prevent rust on inner panels/tub/rotted seam areas and such? Im thinking of "encapsulating" rusty seams/corners rather than welding in new bits. Because I suck at welding. I've attached some pics of areas looking at. Inner stuff nobody would see.

Cheers and thank you!

Jeff

Jeff,
When you get to smaller parts, and IMO you will, you might look into electrolysis. I had never used it and since the first time I have used it on brackets to blocks, wheels and anything I can fit into a container.
You can search You Tube for

Rust Removal by Electrolysis: Use in the Restoration of Machinery​

Impressive results...
Jim

 

[equiprx]

Hey guys!


Is there some space aged goop/paint/treatment that people are using to prevent rust on inner panels/tub/rotted seam areas and such? Im thinking of "encapsulating" rusty seams/corners rather than welding in new bits. Because I suck at welding. I've attached some pics of areas looking at. Inner stuff nobody would see.

Cheers and thank you!

Jeff

SEM products makes a rust converter called Rust-Mort.
It works sort of but dissolves surrounding paint, so masking is a must.

 

[LarryK]

SEM products are good. Eastwood has quite a lot of different things, their incapsulator comes with a spray attacment to get into places, but sometimes holes need drilling and plugged.

 

[roadsteroldster]

I have used a product called Gluvit on my fiberglass boat deck restoration. It is a thin, free flowing 2 part epoxy that is touted to get into hairline cracks and remain flexible. It is commonly used to seal aluminum boats whose rivets are leaking. It is damaged by sunlight so it should be painted over so the next guy who does paint the car wont have a mess.

 

[Gliderman8]

Jeff,
When you get to smaller parts, and IMO you will, you might look into electrolysis. I had never used it and since the first time I have used it on brackets to blocks, wheels and anything I can fit into a container.
You can search You Tube for

Rust Removal by Electrolysis: Use in the Restoration of Machinery​

Impressive results...
Jim

I will second this method. It worked very well on every part I used it for. As long as you can fit the part in the tub of solution it will work. I used it on a rusted gas tank and it came out great.

 

[jcw67spitfire]

I'm seeing from Hamish Racing on the UK magazine reviewing best rust converters that the top-rated product and the one I plan on using (not on my '67 Spitfire MK2 that's garage kept by me and has been garage kept for probably over 4 decades by the previous 2 owners) on a 2001 Honda S2000 I recently purchased will be the Jenolite Rust Converter Spray (not the liquid) after I do some light wire brushing. All my work will be underneath the car while on jack stands (I probably will wear a N95 mask and happen to have some from several years ago when they were still only $7 each before coronavirus), and for good measure after the Jenolite has been applied and cured out for awhile, I'm going with a new product from Blaster (recently used their penetrating oil/catalyst on my MK2 valves) that I could only get through online ordering through the Home Depot website, called Blaster Surface Shield in an aerosol spray. The S2000 was garage kept for a few years by the previous owner, but before that somebody must have had it farther north where the roads are salted or near the ocean.

 

[Jim_Stevens]

I powder coated everything I could, and used the POR-15 line for the rest. Direct from them, not thru eastwood

 

[apbos]

I did the same with mine as Jim_Stevens. When the POR 15 is nearly dry I paint them with an Enamel Black to match the original color. POR15 will fade if exposed to the sun.
Regsrds
Paul

 

[LarryK]

I used the POR-15 to treat the exposed rust on my 58 Jag sedan. It is in the garage but wanted to keep any rust from spreading because of opening the doors during rain and snow. Nasty stuff, becareful. Can damage lungs. Used a whole qt. and two years later hard as a rock and no new rust. Will blast gone, before prime and paint. Was very good on chassis, and coated with chassis black easily. If using indoors, open all doors and windows,respirator recommended, do not open dood to house. I held can while applying, won't do that again, had headaches for a month, I opened all doors and had a fan going until dried in a unattached garage.

 

[apbos]

Larry
I always use it in an open area, it is nasty. I use a syringe to remove what I need from a can, a little goes a long way. Then use plastic film to cover the lid and seal. Bag it and put it in the freezer. It keeps much longer when cold and away from air. It is not paint over rust. Clean, Phos acid, paint. It will repel paint when it is dry, so paint when tacky. Chassis, floors and areas of the body where moister can pool are where it works for me, but I live in a relatively dry climate.
P