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Wheel bearing replacement question

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JP - thanks for the tip - I'll try a shim and see what happens.

Trevor - I'm re-using the old bolts. This relates to a previous thread a week or so ago where I had merely re-torqued the nut to 46 ft-lbs and was then unable to move the disc. This is what led me to replacing the wheel bearing.

Cheers,
Jones
 
Jones,

I'm sure glad you're leading this charge ahead of me on wheel bearing replacement. Planning on taking up this battle Saturday morning instead of doing basement drywall work and kitchen rehab on an almost in-laws condo going up for sale. I've got a set of NOS wheel bearings and I'm hoping I don't run into the issues that have been plauging you for this job.
 
Are the pistons fully retracted?
 
JP,
Kinda hard to sandwich a washer in there - I'm using a mirror to get the bolts in as it is. Let me keep trying.

Jim,
At the rate I'm going you'll soon be catching me up!

Trevor,
Here is a pic of the pistons. The caliper assembly is a tight fit on the disc. I tried to increase the gap betwwen the pads using a big screwdriver but they wouldn't budge. Didn't try anything more aggressive as I think I shouldn't be doing that anyway.
Pads.jpg
 
Coupla things.

Re: using a bearing race as a tool for pressing. Works great, just cut through it with a saw or disc. It'll retain the shape, but the kerf makes it removable as opposed to having to turn the OD.

Re: putting the caliper on. Reinstall caliper. Remover pad retaining hardware. Open bleed screw. Grab each pad "ear" and wiggle a little. Reinstall hardware and close bleeder. The rotor will turn. Step on the brakes, make sure the rotor will turn after release. If not, open bleed screw, and if the rotor will turn, the hose is collapsed. If it doesn't change, your pistons may be stuck.

Peter C
 
You should be able to push the pads back into the caliper using two screw drivers. If not, pull the caliper and try pushing the pads all the way back to compress the pistons into the calipers using a pair of large channelocks or a screw driver inbetween the pads them to center pressure on the pistons. Compressing one piston will cause the other to push out, so watch that. Install the calipers and press the brake pedal until you get a firm pedal. Then rotate the disc a few times, with a lever if necessary, so that the disc runout pushes the pads back to their normal at rest position. The disc should then turn by hand with only a little scrapping on the pads. If the disc still does not turn fairly easily, one or both pistons are probably sticking in the caliper bore(s) and will require a rebuild.

Piston looks like it may have enough build up on it for this to be the case.

IMHO, replacement of the wheel bearings, if they are seated in the hub, should not have changed the alighnment of the disc relative to the caliper.

Would be intrested to know about the outcome.
 
Peter C.,

Do you mean that a hacksaw width piece cut out will allow the bearing to collapse sufficiently so it can easily be removed. I think that is what you are trying to suggest correct?
 
PeterC said:
Coupla things.

Re: using a bearing race as a tool for pressing. Works great, just cut through it with a saw or disc. It'll retain the shape, but the kerf makes it removable as opposed to having to turn the OD.

Re: putting the caliper on. Reinstall caliper. Remover pad retaining hardware. Open bleed screw. Grab each pad "ear" and wiggle a little. Reinstall hardware and close bleeder. The rotor will turn. Step on the brakes, make sure the rotor will turn after release. If not, open bleed screw, and if the rotor will turn, the hose is collapsed. If it doesn't change, your pistons may be stuck.

Peter C
Click to expand...

:iagree: BOTH EXCELLENT RESPONSES! :iagree:

Peter has undoubtedly "been there, done that!" :bow:
(probably more times that he can count!)

-Bear- :cheers:
 
Jim_Gruber said:
Peter C.,

Do you mean that a hacksaw width piece cut out will allow the bearing to collapse sufficiently so it can easily be removed. I think that is what you are trying to suggest correct?
Click to expand...

YES, that's what he means.
It will allow the race to flex just enuf to permit removal.

-Bear-
 
Jim_Gruber said:
Peter C.,

Do you mean that a hacksaw width piece cut out will allow the bearing to collapse sufficiently so it can easily be removed. I think that is what you are trying to suggest correct?
Click to expand...

Yep. Absolutely. That works for any bearing. Use the old race with a cut to install the new bearing.

I always keep old bearing races laying around for tools. They're nice and hard and very round. An outer race from an MGB front wheel inner bearing is the correct size for installing the metal ring on a Spridget caliper seal, frinstance.

Peter
 
Ok I'll get the Dremel fired up for Saturday morning once I get the old race pushed out. Thanks Peter. Stay warm!!!
 
Peter said:

<span style="font-style: italic">Reinstall caliper. Remover pad retaining hardware. Open bleed screw. Grab each pad "ear" and wiggle a little. Reinstall hardware and close bleeder. The rotor will turn. Step on the brakes, make sure the rotor will turn after release. If not, open bleed screw, and if the rotor will turn, the hose is collapsed. If it doesn't change, your pistons may be stuck.</span>


Many thanks Peter and BigBassPlayer- I think you have hit the nail on the head. I followed the above procedure and after "Step on the brakes", the rotor would not turn. Opening up the bleed screw helped a tad but the rotor was still way to tight to turn easily.

Looks like the caliper needs rebuilding. Do folks attempt this at home? Or do they usualy send them out - if so, any recommendations.

BTW, for folks joining late in this thread it may be a little confusing. This binding issue was a problem before I messed with the wheel bearing.

Cheers, Jones
 
Yeah- after my post about bearing "balls" I realized I had given you guys a heck of a opportunity!!!!:smile:
 
"Many thanks Peter and BigBassPlayer"

correction please, blue grass bass player. Thanks.
 
nomad said:
Yeah- after my post about bearing "balls" I realized I had given you guys a heck of a opportunity!!!!:smile:
Click to expand...

Some of us don't need much of an excuse anyway.:D
 
bigjones said:
Looks like the caliper needs rebuilding. Do folks attempt this at home? Or do they usually send them out - if so, any recommendations.
Click to expand...

It's a pretty easy home rebuild - just ignore the books and split the calipers. the kit is inexpensive and you will need to buy the washer that goes between the caliper halves separately.

PM me your email address and I'll send you the instructions from Classic Motorsports Midget restoration.

I did it so how hard can it be
 
But don't split the calipers until the pistons are out! Use the car's hydraulics to push the outer piston out while keeping the inner piston from moving with shims or the like. Do this for both calipers. Then take them off the car. Now you can use a punch on the inner piston because the hose port is conveniently located in the center of the piston. Then take the caliper apart.

Parts you need are a caliper seal kit, the O-ring, and pistons.

Easy peasy

Peter C


The first one may take 15 minutes to disassemble. The second under 10
 
JP and Peter - all good stuff - thanks!

Meantime I'm working on the other wheel. Took me all of 2 min to get out the bearings from the hub. Ha!

Cheers,
Adrian
 
bigjones said:
...Took me all of 2 min to get out the bearings from the hub. Ha!
Click to expand...

You're an expert now!! :thumbsup:

Funny how it always goes faster once you've done it before.
(of course, the expert advise helps!!)

-Bear! :cheers:
 
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