TR2/3/3A vertical links

[sp53]

I have an old drill press that has belts to change the speed of rotation. What I want to do check some vertical links for their trueness by spinning them in the drill press. My problem is I do not know what speed to spin them and how to move the belt up or down to get the speed correct. I see some set screws on the pulleys and changing the speed could be very simple. It looks the set screw on the motor end will come loose and lift right off. Anyone have experience with these old drill press.

Oh and I am not sure what John was even looking for when he check his.

steve

 

[CJD]

Hey Steve,

You don't need to power spin them at all. The drill press just gives you a convenient way of centering the threaded end of the link so you can hand turn it while you look at the tapered hole when you do. The tapered hole should spin with no wobble if all is perfect.

If you have a dial indicator, you can raise the drill press table, and use it to hold the indicator. Set up so you can touch the indicator inside the tapered hole. Then, as you hand turn the vertical link, it will give you a read out of the amount of wobble you have. Again, "0" is perfect...anything over .050" wobble I consider enough to straighten.

 

[charleyf]

Hey Steve,

You don't need to power spin them at all. The drill press just gives you a convenient way of centering the threaded end of the link so you can hand turn it while you look at the tapered hole when you do. The tapered hole should spin with no wobble if all is perfect.

If you have a dial indicator, you can raise the drill press table, and use it to hold the indicator. Set up so you can touch the indicator inside the tapered hole. Then, as you hand turn the vertical link, it will give you a read out of the amount of wobble you have. Again, "0" is perfect...anything over .050" wobble I consider enough to straighten.

Though you apparently do not need to change your drill press speed. You do not alter the pulleys. You only move the belt either up or down depending on the speed you want. Keep the belt level. It presently set up for slow speed. Small pulley on motor to large pulley on drill.
Charley

 

[sp53]

Thanks guys, hey Charlie does a guy need to remove the pulleys to change the speed, or can you somehow move the belt with everything in place. If so, it looks like the end without the motor might be the one to move. It has an oiling hole and seems like it needs tending too for maintenance.

I have 4 vertical links left and want to pick the best 2 are there other things I should look for?

 

[CJD]

That lever on the side of the press should loosen the belts enough to do whatever you need to do with them. Then re-tighten the lever when done.

 

[Hamish Racing]

The typical weak point is the top of the thread - corrosion or cracks as its just outside the trunnion thread that typically has some lubricant protection.

 

[sp53]

I would mess with the drill press more, but what I really want is drill press on the slowest speed. My thoughts are to put an old pitted trunnion in the chuck and spin the trunnion then take some glass paper and smooth out the surface. Is that too dangerous and crazy?

I have an old wood lathe perhaps that would be better?

steve

 

[DougME]

Ohhhh, I wouldn't run that in a drill press, the length and weight of the trunnion would cause a tremendous vibration unless the whole trunnion assemble was perfectly balanced, I wouldn't do it then either if it was up to me. Most likely the entire drill press would tip over from the unbalance.

 

[CJD]

+1...I keep trying to tell everyone that. The drill press should only be turned by hand while dial indicating the tapered hole. The press is only to provide a true center on the threaded stud, and should never be spun under power at any speed. There is just no reason to spin them under power. A quick recap of the check:

1) Unplug the drill press, or use restraint not to turn it on during the entire procedure!?! LOL
2) chuck up the vertical link with the threaded stud in the drill chuck.
3) Bring up the drill table to about 4 inches below the bottom of the vertical link.
4) Mount your dial indicator to read the inside of the tapered hole at the lower end of the vertical link, the way it is mounted.
5) If you don't have a dial indicator, just hold a pencil point steadily at the tapered hole to give a reference.
6) SLOWLY turn the vertical link by hand while indicating the tapered hole. .050" or less is awesome.

If the tapered hole wobbles more than .050", mark the high side, remove the vertical link, and gently straighten in a press.

7) repeat until the tapered hole is within .050" runout, or wobble.

Here is the procedure with pictures:

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