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Valve timing

[ QUOTE ]
Hello Dave,
that's life, I did mention in one post it only worked for symetrical timing. I also said that it is not the normal way to time but it is a very easy check and will indicate, even with assymetric timing if you have a serious valve timing issue or not.
As for different ways of marking the valve train for assembly, I once owned a car which had no markings at all. Valve timing was done on valve lift with a dial indicator at TDC.
Alec

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Alec,
I've "built" quite a few performance auto & motorcycle engines over the years. All had non-standard cams & required adjustable sprockets, gears, or offset keys to dial in with your dial indicator & degree wheel. I degree ALL valve opening & closing events. For maximum performance, the cam or cams should be within two degrees of the intended timing. Obviously, cam timing must be tailored to the rest of the engine design/modification. For example, turbo charged engines can benefit greatly from earlier intake opening & closing events.

A really fun engine to work with is the old Triumph motorcycles. I still have one. They have separate intake & exhaust cams, much like the Jags, that can be tailored to whatever intake & exhaust timing are desired for the particular engine's combination of parts & intended usage. With a combination of three cam keyways & the ability to advance or retard a gear tooth or two, there is almost infinite adjustment ability. To top it off, there were two different cam follower radiuses available which allowed tailoring of valve opening & closing rates.

On many engines, for a given cam design, the intake valve closing point will have the single greatest affect on the engines power band characteristics & the entire cam (all events) can be advanced or retarded to suit.

Port controlled two stroke engines are a whole different game, but still fun to work with.

I think we generally agree, counting links on a chain is a pretty crude way of setting cam timing, & I doubt that the serious performance engine builders relied upon it. Factory settings were a compromise to work with the intended combination of engine components, for the greatest number of drivers. It might well be that the Healeys under discussion could benefit from non standard cam timing with certain combinations of engine modifications. The original chosen timing may have been decided by inherent port flow restrictions.

Aside: At one time many engines had the intake valve closing delayed to reduce cylinder pressures & NOX emissions. They also had TDC overlap reduced to lower Hydrocarbon emissions at idle.

To one person a "serious issue" would be timing that was 10 degrees off. Another would consider more than two degrees off to be unacceptable. A third person might wish to rearrange the whole thing.
Regards,
D
 
Here's the situation with my timing. There are 15 links of timing chain from crank DOT to timing DOT as specified. When #1 is TDC, DOT and key on timing gear is at 6 o'clock. DOT on crank is at 6 and key is at 12 o'clock. Rockers on #6 are still tight. My book says the DOT on the timing gear should be a 12! Am I confused - yup. I have a picture but don't know how to post it. This ole farmer thanks you all for your help and patience.
 
HI sarge, yes The dot on the camgear should be at~12 oclock when the dot on the crank shaftgear is at ~6 oclock. I dont know what is wrong yet. But you have to reposition the camshaft so its key is at~12 oclock the dot will follow---Keoke
 
Hi Guys,
Please explain to me what you mean by "15 links dot to dot". This is a roller chain, right? There are inner plates, outer plates, & rollers. One end of an outer plate lines up with one end of an inner plate. An inner & outer plate end share a common pin & roller.

I would interpret "dots" as individual roller pins, not links. Are the timing dots ON the sprocket teeth or BETWEEN teeth? If between teeth, do you mean 15 pins between dots? Or 13 full links, or what. When you say links, are you refering to inner or outer plates or pins?

Thanks for the help.
D
 
Hi Dave,
Here’s a shot of my timing chain. The dots were enhanced by my machinist. (those white thingies)
134683-timingchn.jpg
 
HI Dave, the term "DOTS" is used to define the timing marks on the sprocket wheels.Links are those parts of the chain you refer to as "INNER $ OUTER PLATES" Not the rollers. The markings shown on Gregs chain would corospond to the "Bright Links " used on original timing chains. I can not see the the sprocket timing marks in his picture but they must coincide with the bright spots put on his chain. His set up is not standard for the Six cylinder engines---Keoke

However, as you can see if greg's gears were repositioned by rotating the engine so that the Bright spot on the cam sprocket was at 12 oclock the bright spot on the crank sprocket would be at 6 oclock. Thats the way it has to be.
 
Hi Greg,
Your marks are in the middle of outer plates.

It appears there should be 15 outer links with the first & fifteenth link centers located over the marked gear teeth, 28 rollers between marked teeth.

It seems more straight forward to say their are 28 rollers between the marked teeth.

I guess this is Keoke's 15 links dot to dot, if it is the center of the first link is on a dot & the center of the 15th link is on a dot. It just confuses me a bit.

Neat engine by the way. I like the chain tensioner.
Thanks,
D
Sarge,
If you have 15 links between dots, this means that there are 32 rollers between the marked teeth. I think that you are two links off. There should be 13 complete links between dotted teeth plus 1/2 link or one roller on each end, or 28 rollers. Also I think you need to rotate the cam gear half a turn. I think the attached sketch is what you want.

If I have this screwed up, someone will say so in a hurry.
D

Keoke,
Thanks, I appreciate it.
D
134696-camtiming.jpg
 

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Hi Dave,
Thanks. The sprocket tensioner is from Dennis Welsh. There is a drawback that isn’t covered in their catalog. It’s not self adjusting. They sell a timing cover with an access plate, but the plate only uncovers the cam sprocket, not the tensioner. So my car will look like Sarge’s when the chain gets loose./ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif
 
Hi DAVE:
Why this is such a hassel is that the aftermarket timing chains do not contain bright links which formerly you simply alingned with the "DOTS" on the sprocket gears and put THE ASSY BACK on.---Keoke
 
Keoke,
I attached a pic of a DW chain that has the first & fifteenth links marked.
D

134808-Timingchain2.jpg
 

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Hi guys, I humbly intrude on your highly technical discussion, acknowledging your experience. But i am curious about Sarge's remark when first discribing the relationship of his timing gears. It appeared that Sarge is looking at the positioning of the dots while he set the #1 piston at TDC. The way i read the book, The "keyways" of the cam and the crank should be set at TDC, and then put the short half of the chain to the right with the bright links engaged at the marked sprocket teeth. If you look at the picture in the book, it then shows that the keyways of both gears are at 12 o'clock, whilse the marked tooth and bright link of the cam gear is a 12 o'clock, and the marked tooth and bright link of the crank gear is at 6 o'clock. Hope I haven't muddied the waters any further, but Sarges original discription seemed to start out with the wrong assumption.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Well I've done it! I removed the timing gear and chain and repositioned the timing gear 180 degrees so the DOT is at 12 o'clock, and the DOT on the crank is at 6 o'clock and there is 15 links DOT to DOT With #1 at TDC. Gaskets arrived today and the radiator will be in tomorrow so should have it running Monday. There were no shinney links on my chain. Thanks for your help everyone.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hi Dave,
Thanks. The sprocket tensioner is from Dennis Welsh. There is a drawback that isn’t covered in their catalog. It’s not self adjusting.

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Greg,
DW shows a hydraulic (oil pressure) operated tensioner in their catalog. Maybe a good idea? Maybe not. As almost all things DW, it likely takes a whole lot of fiddling around to get things to actually fit & work. At least, that's been my experience.
D
 
Yep, Dave, thats the way it should be and eliminate all this fuss. Those from the usual suspects are not like that, but after you learn to count links it works out ok too.---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

P.S. Thanks for that.
 
Well its about time Sarge. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif But you are not through yet! do you know how to reset the dizzy?, cuz if you don't it aint gonna run on Monday.---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif
 
Hi ED, We heard you bout the pertronics bit. I'm sure Sarge wishes his had been that simple. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif---Keoke
 
Hi Keoke - Oh, Oh whats a dizzy? I guess I don't how to set it - I don't even know what it is!

Made up neat tool to turn the timing gear. Piece of plate, and three nuts, two nuts to fit into the holes of the timing gear and one on the other side to put a socket on - cheap.
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
HI Sarge: /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif, Dizzy= Distributor in Brit Speak.---Keoke--- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

OK on the TOOL now make Dave and me one too, but none of that free stuff an we pay the postage. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hi Greg,
DW shows a hydraulic (oil pressure) operated tensioner in their catalog. Maybe a good idea? Maybe not. As almost all things DW, it likely takes a whole lot of fiddling around to get things to actually fit & work. At least, that's been my experience.
D

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Dave,
I debated awhile about their tensioners and felt that the sprocket was a simpler design. (engineering 101: don’t over design) It wasn’t until I had the crank and cam installed that I really looked at the sprocket and saw its drawback. (It would probably be fine for a racer who tears the engine down more frequently) But with the pistons cleaned and ringed up, plus all the other assembly pieces lined up on a table (on a Saturday). I didn’t want to stop, wait ā€˜til Monday to order one part from England. On the plus side, the sprocket installed quite easily. You have to drill and re-tap one hole in the block.
 
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