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Using inline fuses?

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There is a wiring diagram in the "Knowledge Base" that you can "maybe" get to down load, I couldn't.

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Hi Dave,
There was a problem with the diagram in the Knowledge Base. Basil has fixed it.
 
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...If you find the diagram in the book isn’t providing enough of a challenge, you could reduce its size by 50% on a copy machine. Then add your new circuits with a magic marker... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif

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Sounds like the voice of experience....

I'm more used to undocumented "improvements", not to mention creative "substitutions"....

and then there's the just plain weird stuff people do. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
Update: Resolved the turn signal/brake light. Found the bad connection at the override relay. Still don't have a working horn and trafficators don't cancel, but at least I'm moving forward. Since I don't know how to use a multimeter, I've got learn about that before tackling the horn issues. As for the trafficator, who knows. Thanks to all.
 
SHG, You do not need a multimeter, just get one of those little test lights and work the hot side of the circuits. They light up if you have voltage where it is suppose to be and don"t where it isn't . Use this to check out the horn circuit as I outlined earlier---Keoke
 
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SHG, lets see if we can at least make the horns work. 1st make certain you have 12v present on both sides of the 50A fuse. Now go to the horns and see if there is also 12V at one of the horn terminals and tag it "HOT".Now diconnect the wire on the opposite terminal and momentarily ground that terminal if the horn works you have either an open ground circuit from the trafficator or somewhere in the wiring harness to the horns.-Let us know how you get on---Keoke

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Followed your instructions. I had power on both sides of the fuse, and at the hot terminal of the horn. Disconnect ground and wired it directly to ground. Nothing. Pushed the horn button, nothing. So what's next?
 
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SHG, lets see if we can at least make the horns work. 1st make certain you have 12v present on both sides of the 50A fuse. Now go to the horns and see if there is also 12V at one of the horn terminals and tag it "HOT". Now diconnect the wire on the opposite terminal and momentarily ground that terminal if the horn works you have either an open ground circuit from the trafficator or somewhere in the wiring harness to the horns.-Let us know how you get on---Keoke

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Followed your instructions. I had power on both sides of the fuse, and at the hot terminal of the horn. Disconnect ground and wired it directly to ground. Nothing. Pushed the horn button, nothing. So what's next?

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For clarification: When you momentarily grounded the horns as Keoke suggested, did they sound? If not there may be an internal fault with them.

If they did sound then the horns themselves, the wiring from them to the fuse, and everything forward is healthy.

You then need to check the purple/black wire to the bottom of the steering column to ensure it has no breaks- if it had a short then the horns would sound continuously. You might quickly check that by disconnecting it at the column and grounding it momentarily to sound the horns. If that is good you then need to check the wiring up the column, the horn button switch and its ground. Each may be checked in turn. Not much fun- things not only go wrong but they'll go wrong in the least convenient place..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Good luck....
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif Hi SHG, Whats next? Lets hook the horn back up and connect the test light directly across one horn. Now press the horn button and see if the light lights. If it does the horns are at fault. If it doesn't You are back to square one and the ground circuit for the horns via the Trafficator is at fault. We will check the GND circuit next---Fwiw---Keoke---Lets see what happens
 
Just ran the test light directly across the first horn and it lit when the horn button was pushed. I assume this means the horns are bad. I also tried wiring to the second horn alone, and it didn't work either, so I'm guessing that both horns are bad and need to be replaced?
 
WhoooPeee! Thats great. I was in the shop rehearsing the next bit of tests for you. Now it just may be that they need a bit of adjusting to work.So remove the front one from the car.connect a set of jumper leads to its terminals and then connect the horn directly across the battery terminals. Now you will see a small screw on it . Using a screw driver adjust the scew in and out a bit to see if it will begin squaking. If it does set the screw for the loudest noise and repeat this sequence on the other one.If neither respond, head for E-bay[Well I know you are cheap] and look for a good set.On the otherhand, if you are game they can be opened up and possibly made to work. I say there SHG whats your pleasure.---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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connect a set of jumper leads to its terminals and then connect the horn directly across the battery terminals.

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Not sure what this means. I'm going out to pull the horn out now so I'm ready for you.
 
I mean just hook the horn up directly to the car's battery SHG. This is most easily done using Jumper leads with aligator clips on the ends.
 
Re: Using inline fuses? *DELETED*

Post deleted by Keoke
 
Had my originals rewound by hand,the old varnish had broken down,was a pain getting the old screws out tho!
 
so I hooked both up to the battery directly. The high tone horn started to squawk a bit, and with adjustment, let out its note. The low tone was silent, and no matter how much adjusting, wouldn't give a sound. But reading the links that James attached, I'm going to try to play with the low tone a little more before giving it up. BTW, they're not Lucas but replacements, so it isn't the end of the world to replace the low tone. In fact, I might buy me a pair of lucas off eBay just to prove to Keoke that I'm not cheap, just thrifty.
 
Tried all the tricks to the low-note, but it's a goner. Not a problem, though, since it's only a matter of getting a new one.

Now, if I could only get the trafficator to cancel...
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif OK SHG, First mark the body so the two halves can be reassembled in the correct position, but do not drill out the rivets as suggested.Dril the peened over side {The Opposite End} just enough to free each rivet. Then prise the two halves apart. Clean up the contacts first and se if it will squak. If it does align the two halves and press it back together.Now using a 1/16" drill bit, drill the remaining rivet body just enough to accept a #2 X 3/8" sheet metal screw.Put in three of them set 120 Deg apart paint it up and put it back on.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
I think I'm drawing the line at drilling out the old repro horn. It's just not worth the effort when a new one can be had cheap from Moss or Healey Surgeons. Thanks for all the help.

But if you have words of wisdom on the trafficator canceling, I'm still working on that one.
 
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