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Using inline fuses?

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Hi Scott,
I spent a little time with the shop manual this evening and I think James is on to something. The BJ7 turn signal circuit seems more akin to the BN’s than a late BJ8. The flasher relay is the octopus here. Each corner of the car has a wire branching out from it. The brake switch override is also part of this component. If you look in the shop manual that James has a link to, Page N15, look at number 6 under “Checking Faulty Operation”. You may have let the smoke out of the relay just before that horn fuse blew. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif
 
Greg, unfortunately, the link was to amazon, so while I can order the book I can't see what's on that page until it comes in. Can you give me any more info about page N15. The workshop manual I have doesn't help, and I don't know where the brake switch override is.

Healeygal, I truly apologize for hijacking your thread.
 
I use something called (corrode kure?) its a battery post paste, stops corrosion on my bullet connectors in the beach buggy, use it on the ground terminals also, mind you if the connectors are press fitted to wires and not soldered this might be a source of problem, or soldered joint has flux between wire and connector causing a cold joint
 
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Dave Russell
Why the difference in the British and USA fuse ratings?

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The Lucas fuse is rated at 17.5 amps continuous / 35 amps maximum. It will carry 17.5 amps happily but and if the current goes as high as 35 amps, it would "blow".

An American 35A fuse is rated to allow 35 amps (and somewhat more) continuously.

So the point where the Lucas fuse will almost certainly be blown is where the American one starts to think about it....

So in order to protect the circuits a lower rated American fuse is needed.

An article:

https://snic-braaapp.org/itech02.htm#Fuses

A Table of equivalents:

https://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/fuses.html
 
Hi Scott,
Send me a PM with your email. I copied some pages out of the manual for you. I’ll try to get them to you some time today. It’s real busy at work.
 
Hi Dave,James Wilson, My comment on the 1 amp fuse located in the boot is in addition to the upsteam one mentioned earlier,Basically this creates a Marriage. Locating a fuse too far from a potental fault area can cause the wiring in the circuit to current limit the fuse as the wire's resistance increases due to overheating.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
[ QUOTE ]
Can you give me any more info about page N15.

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I'll summarize it (and add a comment or two of my own):

It outlines a sequence of checks:

1) Check the bulb filaments.
2) Check all connections.
3) Turn the ignition "on".
4) Check that the FLASHER unit terminal "B" carries 12 v relative to ground. (basically- this sees whether you have power in; and since the front signals work the flasher isn't the problem so this and the next step may be skipped)
5) Check that the FLASHER works- connect terminal B to L and put the turn signal ON, if the light works the problem is internal to the FLASHER unit and it should be replaced.
6) Then check the Brake switch override relay:
First: Link terminal "I" on the relay its terminals "2" & "3"- this should light the left lights.
Second: Link terminal "i" on the relay Its terminal s "6" & "7"- the right lights should now operate.
Third: if the lights do work this means the relay is faulty. It may be re-set (instructions in the manual too much to go through here) or replaced.
Fourth: If the relay works, then check the directional signals.

You should note that terminals 3 & 7 are for the rear lights. They should "flash" 12 v when the indicator is on. If they turn "hot" and the rear lights stay off then re-check the grounds and connections- for the flasher and relay are OK.

Terminal 5 is the input from the brake light switch. It should show 12 v when the brake is pressed.

The wiring diagram is just a schematic and doesn't show where components or connectors are located.

Good luck....
 
Can anybody tell me where the brake switch override relay is in a 64 BJ8? Please share. Please...
 
Hi SHG, It is included in that toooo expensive flasher relay located on the left hand wheel arch in the engine compartment.---Keoke
 
Hi SHG, Well I guess so, if the PO didn't pull some funnies too.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Are you sure? It seems like it's got to be somewhere else.

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This shows the relay (shiny in the glare) behind the Black air ducting and also behind and to the right of the brake fluid reservoir. That's its proper position. Apologies for the size of the photo, but its not mine- just one "borrowed" from another site to show where it is found. A line drawing of it can be seen at the SC Parts on-line catalogue- item # 5.

To be honest- since your front signals are working I rather doubt that the relay is at fault (though its possible for the set of contacts for the rear lights to not work or be set propely) and am more inclined to think you've some connections between the relay and the rear lights that have come unstuck. If you can, identify the wires AT the rear lights (should be white/purple & white/green but might be green/red & green/white depending on whether the earlier or later color coding convention was used, and assuming the wires conform to Healey practice at all). These should connect to the relay. If they do- note that the same color are used for the front lights so watch which was they go too, then do a continuity check to see if the front and back are connected.

An incautious person would jumper 12v to the relay terminal and watch for the rear light to go on.... until the smoke from a possible short circuit melted the wire and truly messed everything up- much better to use a small electrical meter and check for continuity in the wire (to be certain you're testing the wire and not some alternative parallel circuit disconnect it from both the relay and light) between the relay and the light (should be OK), and for safety bewteen those and ground as a check for a short circuit (hope not!).

DSC00033(89).jpg
 
James, I can't thank you enough. This place is the absolute best, and without you I would never stand a chance of getting anything done, or done right. I know that switch, but didn't know what it did. I have no clue whether I'm going to be able to work this out, but I am overwhelmed by the help I've gotten here. Thanks again.
 
I was just at Tom's Import Toys and they sell color wiring diagrams for 57 through 67 Big Healeys. On another note, something has gone bad with my wiring diagram in the Knowledge Base. I’ve sent a note to Bas, hopefully it’ll be up again in a day or two.
 
Color Diagrams? Bah, Humbug....

I have a certain affection for the traditional schematics with figuring out what GP and NW are supposed to be in reality.

Besides which, I masochistically plan on using a few extra electrical accessories; and some relays for the lighting, more fuses, heavier wiring and building my own harness (following the wiring diagram and its conventions, of course). I've got everything I need but for the "correct" harness sheathing, but I haven't really looked for it yet. It'll probably be one of next summer's or fall's jobs... if I'm lucky.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
had mine re-done in the original cotton bumblebee wiring cover on a thing called an "octopus"!, good job too!, even the groups of wires running off the main loom were all done at the same time
 
[ QUOTE ]
Color Diagrams? Bah, Humbug....

I have a certain affection for the traditional schematics with figuring out what GP and NW are supposed to be in reality.

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi James,
If you find the diagram in the book isn’t providing enough of a challenge, you could reduce its size by 50% on a copy machine. Then add your new circuits with a magic marker. Be sure to include it in the paperwork to the new owner if you ever sell the car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
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