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Trying to get back working on the 1974 Midget

DavidApp

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I seem to have been neglecting the Midget for too long. So many jobs jumped in front of it.

Making an effort to get back to working on it.

The doors are really heavy and when they are off the car they are a bit awkward to handle. So I came up with this method of holding them. Not sure how well it will work.

David
Door mounted on engine stand.jpg
Door.jpg
 
looks great! clever idea for sure. BTW, when I reinstalled my doors, I changed out the screws for bolts. Then I could use a socket to hold and move the door with one hand and snug it up with the other. Once all was alligned I replaced the bolts for the screws one by one. Glad you are getting back to it. Progress!
 
I got the drivers side door completely stripped down. Trying to follow You Tube videos on the door assembly but found most of them focus on getting the regulator in or out with the glass not installed. Getting the glass off the regulator was a pain and I think I may have missed something somewhere. The Bentley book was not a lot of help in this area.
I think I will have to play it by ear unless someone can point to a good video.
It seems there is a gap in the track on the window which I thought may help in getting them separated. I did find that I think I can leave the quadrant stop in place and the bottom of the quarter light frame it may be better to unbolt the support from the bracket rather than the 2 bolts that hold the bracket.

Looking around in the paint store for colour swatches.

David
 
There is the piece on the bottom of the glass that fits in the gap on the track. It has been quite few years but I recall that you undo the regulator and slide it along to lift the glass out. The sweep and the felt are the bonkers bit to get back on so anything you can do to start growing six inch fingers the better.

Seriously there is a tool you can make for the clips.

In the meantime here is an excellent site for colour:


Also, assuming you are replacing the rubber sweep and the felt, this is the best sourc out there:


lots of good advice here!
 
On that tool for the window scraper clips, yes you can make it but the over-priced one from Moss has a little magnet built into it that helps keep them from falling off. And I give a resounding second on MacGregor for all the rubber parts. His actually work. I learned the hard (spelled expensive) way.
 
Thanks for the information.
I got the quarter light seals from moss and they look a bit sketchy.
Will order some from MacGregor along with the other seals.

Anyone have the dimensions for the window stop bracket. All I have left is the mounting screws.

I have a couple of tiny rust holes in the lower edge of the drivers door which I will cut out and patch. Then POR 15 the inside of the door.
I did find a great description of the reassembly by Norm Kerr on the other site. I will try to link to it.
David

 
I had the quarter light seals from moss and they were useless. I finally convinced someone that they sent me the wrong or otherwise bad stuff and they agreed to replace them. They sent another copy of the same thing. That's when someone on this forum suggested MacGregor so I ordered his and they are perfect. I also had a boot lid seal from moss, in fact I accidentally had two, and the lid would not even come close to closing. I ordered that from MacGregor and it works. Then I got smart and ordered his door seals before making the Moss mistake.
This chapter > Sprite Restoration - Chapter VIII < of my web page gives a lot more detail and shows how I got the windows and scrapers installed.
 
Had a look at the quarter light seals today. One is useless as it looks like they used a razor to cut off the flashing but missed the correct line.there is a section on the back edge that is almost cut through. The other side is not like that.
Started welding up the rust pin holes in the door. So far I have not blown through the door skin. I am using a step bit to drill the holes then cutting out discs to fill the hole.
Some fixed.jpg

David
Drivers door repair.jpg
 
Went out and got a battery for the Midget today, size 51 seems to fit. When I was placing the heater box in the car to judge the amount of room I had for the battery I noticed there is a gap between the bottom of the heater and the air intake to the car. Don't remember what went in there. Some foam packing? It is about 1"

Did run the engine on its stand till it was warmed up.

David
 
foam packing indeed. I just found some closed cell foam and filled it in.
 
I have a 3D printer so I may print a spacer and add some thin foam to form a seal. Got to find Real Jobs for the printer.

David
 
I have a 3D printer so I may print a spacer and add some thin foam to form a seal. Got to find Real Jobs for the printer.

David
Smart plan - I recall cutting layers. It is an odd space that I suspect has more to do with a 'parts bin' heater than anything else.
 
Spacer printed. Some sticky backed foam strips will form the seal top and bottom.

Starting paint prep. Hunting down smaller and smaller imperfections.

David
IMG_1369.jpg
 
Is there a suggested order of reassembly? I know I am getting ahead of my self but beginning of thinking of that step. Have to get it painted first. I have settled on my colour. Powder Blue. I had a small batch mixed today and I am happy with the look. This was only a test of the colour. More prep work needed.
I think I will paint inside and underneath while the Midget is on the rotisserie but am thinking some parts may go on easier while I can flip the car over.
David
MG Powder Blue.jpg
 
Definitely paint the underside and inside on the rotisserie. After that on mine, I installed all the light weight bottom side stuff that I could while still on the rotisserie. With it off, we then installed all the suspension and other heavy stuff except the engine and gearbox. Then I painted the outer skin completely disassembled, in pieces. Before installing fenders, doors, etc, we installed the engine and 5 speed. Finally, I did most of the cut and polish before installing the removable pieces. If I had it to do over, I would probably follow roughly the same steps. Some of the timeline was influenced by weather or more specifically Oklahoma climate. Our shop does have heat but we have some times in winter when it can't quite keep up for painting. Summers are almost always too hot most of the time. This is all on my website in detail if you are interested (link in my signature).
 
Agreed. The only thing I might add is wire harness before engine. windshield before dash and carpet before doors and seats last of all
 
Good additional advice JP. I had to take the dash back out in order to install the windshield. I'm working on the seats at home and have not installed carper yet but doors are on.
 
Thank you for the tips.
That was just about what I had planned to do.
Got the underside and interior painted now. It will have 2 weeks to harden as I will be away for a couple of weeks.

Started trying to unscramble the wiring harness. Some of the wire colours are hard to see.

I am very pleased with the way colour looks.

David
MG paint.jpg
MG interior paint.jpg
 
Looking really good. What do you have for a paint booth?
 
I am standing in my paint booth. Some is outside on saw horses. Bunny suit, respirator, gloves and goggles. It is heck in this weather so I paint first thing or late in the evening.

David
Ready to paint.jpg
 
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