Trailers for Hauling a Healey info wanted

[Michael Oritt]

Patrick--

That's exactly what I would expect a guy selling 102" wide trailers to say. While I doubt you will run afoul of the law, I simply wonder why--for the sake of a couple of inches of unneeded interior width--you would want to buy a trailer that is not legal everywhere. In any case I hope your trailer opens up for you the vistas and destinations you seek.

I regard my trailer as an integral part of my racing experience--it is my "base of operations" while at the track and I devote a lot of time and effort not only to keeping it equipped with the tools and spares I may need to support the race car but also to making it as likely as possible that I will actually reach my destination. If you did not opt for radial tires do so now as trailering is rough on rubber. Buy one or two good bottle jacks and carry enough blocks of wood, etc. so that when--not if--you get a flat you will be able to deal with it on the spot and not have your trip interrupted. And the same goes for your tow vehicle--I cannot tell you how often people's trips are ruined because the trailer and/or tow vehicle broke down. And assuming ou have your Healey insured by one of the "classic" companies such as Grundy, Heacock, etc. look into having your trailer added onto the same policy.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Patrick--

That's exactly what I would expect a guy selling 102" wide trailers to say. While I doubt you will run afoul of the law, I simply wonder why--for the sake of a couple of inches of unneeded interior width--you would want to buy a trailer that is not legal everywhere. In any case I hope your trailer opens up for you the vistas and destinations you seek.

I regard my trailer as an integral part of my racing experience--it is my "base of operations" while at the track and I devote a lot of time and effort not only to keeping it equipped with the tools and spares I may need to support the race car but also to making it as likely as possible that I will actually reach my destination. If you did not opt for radial tires do so now as trailering is rough on rubber. Buy one or two good bottle jacks and carry enough blocks of wood, etc. so that when--not if--you get a flat you will be able to deal with it on the spot and not have your trip interrupted. And the same goes for your tow vehicle--I cannot tell you how often people's trips are ruined because the trailer and/or tow vehicle broke down. And assuming you have your Healey insured by one of the "classic" companies such as Grundy, Heacock, etc. look into having your trailer added onto the same policy.

Thanks for your input Michael! We have a couple of guys in our local club that have 102" trailers and go to a significant amount of Healey and other Events and they say "no problems" with the 102" Trailers so I'm going with that. I don't think I'll have any problems going to Healey events with it considering the roads I used to get to Healey events I traveled to over the years.

I agree with you about salesmen so that's why I wanted to have input from non-salesmen from guys who do use Trailers. It did take the salesman 2 days to get back to me because he was doing a lot of checking from "higher sources".

Very good idea on the bottle jacks and blocks of wood. Radial Tires were ordered. Also a spare wheel/tire with inside mounting in the nose of the Trailer. Breakdown triangle reflectors, flares, etc., I already have. Even a new ballcap with those led lights in the cap bill for those handsfree repairs.

My regular car insurance covers the car and trailer for roadside assistance. I have Hagerty Ins. for the Healey.

The trailer is covered with liability on my regular insurance and is only $20.00 for 6 months worth of collision and comp. including roadside assistance.

Thanks!

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Trailer is do be delivered soon to the Dealers place.

I would like to know/see what you "trailer guys" are using for a winch set-up. I'm thinking of a Harbor Freight 3500 lb winch with wiring from my Tahoe battery to the Trailer winch instead of a separate battery.

Anybody have graphics treatments on their trailers that they would like to show? Maybe some Austin-Healey logos, etc?

Thanks!

 

[John Kuzman]

Patrick -

I am using a 4500# winch that I think I bought at Tractor Supply. Probably similar to a HF winch. 4500# might be overkill, but I wanted the higher rating so I did not overwork the winch while pulling the car up the ramp gate incline and beavertail. I think the 4500# winch had a larger cable than the 3500# winch.

Up in the "V", I sandwiched the trailer floor between two 12" square pieces of 3/16" plate with 3/8" grade 8 bolts in each corner. I then mounted the winch to the plates using the same size bolts.

I mounted a separate battery in a marine battery box next to the winch. I keep it charged with a Battery Tender Solar Panel Charger. Been working fine for the last 3+ years.

I left the trailer exterior plain. Why advertise what might be inside?

 

[Brinkerhoff]

The advantage you have with the wider 102" trailer is that you can drive the Healey in and open the door to get out, making the winch not really necessary. The door will just clear the inner fender of the trailer.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Patrick -

I am using a 4500# winch that I think I bought at Tractor Supply. Probably similar to a HF winch. 4500# might be overkill, but I wanted the higher rating so I did not overwork the winch while pulling the car up the ramp gate incline and beavertail. I think the 4500# winch had a larger cable than the 3500# winch.

Up in the "V", I sandwiched the trailer floor between two 12" square pieces of 3/16" plate with 3/8" grade 8 bolts in each corner. I then mounted the winch to the plates using the same size bolts.

I mounted a separate battery in a marine battery box next to the winch. I keep it charged with a Battery Tender Solar Panel Charger. Been working fine for the last 3+ years.

I left the trailer exterior plain. Why advertise what might be inside?

Thanks for the winch info! I've seen some trailers with the car logo on the outside and just wondered. I guess if you advertised you might invite the wrong people to see what's inside.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

The advantage you have with the wider 102" trailer is that you can drive the Healey in and open the door to get out, making the winch not really necessary. The door will just clear the inner fender of the trailer.

My new tires from Hendrix are a little taller so I guess I'll be finding out if my "inner fender" is low enough.

 

[blueskies]

The advantage you have with the wider 102" trailer is that you can drive the Healey in and open the door to get out, making the winch not really necessary. The door will just clear the inner fender of the trailer.

You are fortunate; that is not the case with my Pace American enclosed trailer. For low cars like an Austin Healey and various other sports cars, the inner fenders get in the way of the doors. Doors on vehicles with more ground clearance and higher door bottoms do clear the inner fenders. With lower cars, I can carefully squeeze out of the door, even with the fender stopping the door from opening as far as I would like. It's a good exercise in agility.

A winch can come in handy for loading cars that won't start or don't run. For the odd time when it is needed, I just use a fairly heavy duty hand operated winch, with a horizontal handle on top of the winch. The winch is bolted to the floor near the front of the trailer and also comes in handy for helping secure vehicles in the trailer.. It is slow to operate but has more than enough capacity to load even heavy American cars.

 

[Brinkerhoff]

In my 20' Haulmark the door of my BT7 will just clear the inner fender while I'm seated in the car. The BJ8 should clear also.

 

[John Kuzman]

I prefer to winch the cars on to the trailer. While I could drive it on, using the winch allows me to move around the car and trailer while loading and verify that the exhaust clears. I can also stand up front in the trailer and make sure I am centered, and I can stop the car on my marks for the front tires. I leave the winch cable attached to the car and use the winch for unloading as well. One person, simple process.

I have marks on the floor for the front tires of each car. The marks correspond to the point where the tongue weight is 12-15% of the total weight of car and trailer. I saw somewhere that 12-15% tongue weight is ideal for a balanced load. My trailer tows like it is not even back there. No sway or porpoising down the highway.

Which brake controller are you using?

 

[blueskies]

Whether doors will clear the inner fenders or not likely depends on several things. Lower trailers, with the fold down door that also acts as a ramp are great for loading cars with low ground clearance like the Healeys, but the wheel wells may then project higher into the trailer. I wonder also whether trailers with torsion bar suspensions are lower to the ground than those with springs. Wheel size, with heavier trailers having larger diameter wheels, may also be a factor.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I prefer to winch the cars on to the trailer. While I could drive it on, using the winch allows me to move around the car and trailer while loading and verify that the exhaust clears. I can also stand up front in the trailer and make sure I am centered, and I can stop the car on my marks for the front tires. I leave the winch cable attached to the car and use the winch for unloading as well. One person, simple process.

I have marks on the floor for the front tires of each car. The marks correspond to the point where the tongue weight is 12-15% of the total weight of car and trailer. I saw somewhere that 12-15% tongue weight is ideal for a balanced load. My trailer tows like it is not even back there. No sway or porpoising down the highway.

Which brake controller are you using?

I'm using a Curt Discovery Brake Controller.

 

[Michael Oritt]

Patrick--

Whatever winch you get I'd recommend getting an electrical one with a wired remote control long enough to enable you to operate the winch while standing alongside the car. This will enable you to steer/center the car while pulling it up the ramp and into the trailer, and you'll also be able to keep tension on the line till it comes under load.

I'd also suggest ditching the galvanized wire rope that comes with the winch and replacing it with braided marine rope of a similar diameter. Wire rope is fine for boat trailers where you really don't handle the line, just the snap shackle that fastens onto a boat's bow eye. I think you'll see, however, that with your car you will be handling the line itself a lot, and whereas galvanized inevitably develops "fish hooks" that will cut your hands in no time braided line is much friendlier. You really don't need a lot of line strength since your car is being pulled in an almost horizontal direction and rolls easily versus a boat which is being pulled onto a trailer on an inclined boat ramp on rollers without bearings. I use pre-stretched halyard line (Spectra or the like) in either 1/4" or 5/16" diameter and it works great. It is expensive but you will only be buying about 25' of it and it will last forever provided you keep it free from passing over sharp or abrasive edges, etc.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Patrick--

Whatever winch you get I'd recommend getting an electrical one with a wired remote control long enough to enable you to operate the winch while standing alongside the car. This will enable you to steer/center the car while pulling it up the ramp and into the trailer, and you'll also be able to keep tension on the line till it comes under load.

I'd also suggest ditching the galvanized wire rope that comes with the winch and replacing it with braided marine rope of a similar diameter. Wire rope is fine for boat trailers where you really don't handle the line, just the snap shackle that fastens onto a boat's bow eye. I think you'll see, however, that with your car you will be handling the line itself a lot, and whereas galvanized inevitably develops "fish hooks" that will cut your hands in no time braided line is much friendlier. You really don't need a lot of line strength since your car is being pulled in an almost horizontal direction and rolls easily versus a boat which is being pulled onto a trailer on an inclined boat ramp on rollers without bearings. I use pre-stretched halyard line (Spectra or the like) in either 1/4" or 5/16" diameter and it works great. It is expensive but you will only be buying about 25' of it and it will last forever provided you keep it free from passing over sharp or abrasive edges, etc.

Thanks for the "tips". I'll be sure to check the specs on what I buy before I buy it. The last time I worked a winch was when I was in the Navy flying crew on the LC-130F/R aircraft in Antarctica. I remember operating the winch to bring on freight pallets but I seem to recall the freezing more than anything else. I was amazed at the strength of the thin wire on the winches bringing on those heavy pallets and we always laid our parkas over the cable in case it snapped. We always wore I gloves to keep any barbs from cutting our hands/fingers. I see where there are "roller" things that can be attached to the trailer floor to keep the cables off the floor while being retracted and not very expensive. Remote control is a must have for me!

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Patrick--

Whatever winch you get I'd recommend getting an electrical one with a wired remote control long enough to enable you to operate the winch while standing alongside the car. This will enable you to steer/center the car while pulling it up the ramp and into the trailer, and you'll also be able to keep tension on the line till it comes under load.

I'd also suggest ditching the galvanized wire rope that comes with the winch and replacing it with braided marine rope of a similar diameter. Wire rope is fine for boat trailers where you really don't handle the line, just the snap shackle that fastens onto a boat's bow eye. I think you'll see, however, that with your car you will be handling the line itself a lot, and whereas galvanized inevitably develops "fish hooks" that will cut your hands in no time braided line is much friendlier. You really don't need a lot of line strength since your car is being pulled in an almost horizontal direction and rolls easily versus a boat which is being pulled onto a trailer on an inclined boat ramp on rollers without bearings. I use pre-stretched halyard line (Spectra or the like) in either 1/4" or 5/16" diameter and it works great. It is expensive but you will only be buying about 25' of it and it will last forever provided you keep it free from passing over sharp or abrasive edges, etc.

Trailer has arrived. I decided to have a row of E-Track run down both sides of the walls so I can strap down furniture, etc., if I want to(i'm moving to East, TX next month).. I will pick up the trailer on Monday from the Dealer after the E-track & inside spare tire has been installed. Trailer is 16' plus the "V" front. Nice slope towards the back of the trailer connecting to the beavertail. Next on the shopping list is a winch. HF has both their 2500 & 3500lb winch's(with auto-brakes) on sale.
Photos to follow in the next email.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Trailer has arrived. I decided to have a row of E-Track run down both sides of the walls so I can strap down furniture, etc., if I want to(i'm moving to East, TX next month).. I will pick up the trailer on Monday from the Dealer after the E-track & inside spare tire has been installed. Trailer is 16' plus the "V" front. Nice slope towards the back of the trailer connecting to the beavertail. Next on the shopping list is a winch. HF has both their 2500 & 3500lb winch's(with auto-brakes) on sale.
Photos to follow in the next email.

Trailer photos. The "inner fenders" are too high and the Healey doors will hit them. There's a slight downward taper of the trailer floor before the beavertail that should eliminate the high point of the floor where the ramp/floor meet which can be hit by the mufflers.

 

[dougie]

Patrick -

I think you should have just gone "old school".....

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Where can I find that old school tow car?? Lol

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Update: I traded in my Tahoe for a new GMC 1/2 ton crew cab pick up truck. I was going to have the old Curt brake controller installed but the trailer hitch guy I went to see talked me into a "iStop" by Draw Tite". I can say that change was a significant improvement over what I had. Truck & Trailer stop straight and true! I didn't like the rear end drop on my old Tahoe and the new truck is better but I felt something wasn't quite right and I could make it better with a "weight distribution hitch". I had that installed last week and the ride is much better and more level. One thing I've had to deal with is those new "focused headlights"! Driving at night the first time was a real treat on hills and curves in the country where I live. The new lights beam stopped dead about 100 yards in front of the truck!! The line of light has you almost wanting to bend over and see if you can see above that imaginary line of light and dark on your windshield. Googled GMC Lights issues and there had been a bulletin change with new brighter bulbs and I have since had installed(yep, I found out something that the Dealer Service Mgr wasn't aware of). My next improvement will be in handling and I'll be inflating the tires significantly more than the stock specs, but not beyond their max specs.