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TR2/3/3A TR3A Rear Axle Picture

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rlandrum

rlandrum

Jedi Trainee
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I'm in need of a rear axle picture. I believe I have my backing plates in the wrong place and may need to move them down 1 hole.

The cables are at an angle. Everything works, but it just doesn't seem right.

Rob
 
Here is one from 1988 when I was doing the restoration of my 1958 TR3A - exactly like it was originally. If this is not what you need, tell me what you want. I have others.
 

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Jumpin jupiter Don! that's nice. Mine's gonna look like that sometime......
 
Yep... mine are 1 bolt hole higher than that.

It occurs to me that the brake line would be at a pretty tight bend there, since the cylinder is right in front of the spring.
 
There are also 3 locking plates that lock the hex nuts on each axle/hub. I can't see them on Don's chassis in the picture.
 
Interesting ! I'm pretty sure they're supposed to be there ... have been on all my TRs. SPC shows them from 13046 onwards (including TR4). And I just felt TS13571L, it has em too.
 
Oh dear, Don, you have to give back all those trophys
 
Yep, there on mine also, course I put them there, heh

Tinkerman
 
The locking tabs were on my old racecar, and bent over the bolt heads, but the bolts were loose!

When I had the rear overhauled, the overhauler used lockwashers. He said he didn't trust locking tabs.
 
Twosheds said:
The locking tabs were on my old racecar, and bent over the bolt heads, but the bolts were loose!
Click to expand...
A disadvantage of locktabs (and Loctite) : difficult to retorque to cover bolt stretch and/or locktab crush.
 
I can only guess that in the three years between taking my TR3A all apart and putting it together again, well what is it called, "a senior moment or three years?"

I have lock washers on there and they never seem to come loose.

On the one I finished in 2006, I guess I used my photos as guides. In the case with that TR3A, it was 10 years between dis-assembling it all and finishing it.
 

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See what happens when you display your intimate parts on this forum!!

Don,
You see that little clip that holds the brake line onto the rear diff cover, is there an easy way to unclip the brake pipe from it? I couldn't see a way of separating them when I wanted to replace the leaking diff gasket.
Nick
 
I purchased new tabs to replace the rusted ones I removed. I have yet to bend them over specifically because I wasn't positive about the position of the backing plates.

I replaced almost all of the hardware, actually. There are a few studs I haven't replaced, and the lock washers and bolts on the brake calipers, and the 3.5 inch bolts on the front hubs. Aside from that, new lock washers and nuts or new nylocks are the rule. All Grade 8s.
 
NickMorgan said:
You see that little clip that holds the brake line onto the rear diff cover, is there an easy way to unclip the brake pipe from it?
Click to expand...
Been a long time ago, but ISTR that after removing all the cover bolts, I could work the pipe out of the clip by moving the cover and then pull it free without disconnecting the line.
 
Here's a picture that has me puzzled...

This backing plate had no hardware attached to it, so it may have once been off the car...

00049.jpg


As you can see, the backing plate is oriented with the adjuster BELOW the level of the frame. In both pictures above, the adjuster is ABOVE the level of the frame.

00048.jpg


In this picture, the driver side is pointed straight up, which suggests it matches the passenger side.
 
Yup, it's installed wrong. The orientation shown in Don's photo is correct.

Looks like you could use a new pinion seal and LH shock, too.
 
Just looked in the brake section of the "How to Restore a TR3" book and it also shows that my son a I got the position one bolt off...Not too bad to change them - I think I'm getting so I can put the brake shoes and springs back on in less than 60 seconds :smile:

The real pain will be rebending that %%^&(& brake line....
 
CraigLandrum said:
Not too bad to change them
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No doubt a big advantage of having the body off and the proper tools. I recall it being more of a pain in the neck, with the body on and only an open end wrench. Seemed like it took forever to wind those bolts out, one flat at a time.

Then I learned the hard way that TR4 rear axles are not the same as TR3 ... Duh !
 
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