TR2/3/3A TR3 Windshield Rebuild and Assembly - Step by Step

[luke44]

TR3 Windshield Rebuild and Assembly

Here is how I went about the rebuild of the TR3 windshield. I must say, I was a bit apprehensive about this job at first, but with a few small tricks and it turned out perfectly with very little effort. I found bits and pieces on this site about the “how to” but I felt a more detailed posting would help those who come after me.

Step #1 – Go to bank and take out small fortune in cash for chroming shop. Give consideration to selling kidney on black market as an option. Pay chrome shop, and return chromed goodies home.

Step #2 carefully unwrap the 2 windshield main frame pieces – one bow shaped piece for the main frame bottom, and one U shaped piece for the main frame. Use a thick blanket or old sleeping bag on the work table for this job.

Step #3 – wrap windshield glazing seal Moss p/n 680-455 seal around glass, centering on both sides of the glass. Do not try to insert the seal into the frame and slide glass into frame. Tape seal to glass with duct tape to pull it tight and keep it in place.

Do NOT do this.

Do THIS instead.

Step #4 – slide glass/seal into u shaped frame, pushing firmly into bottom of U shaped frame piece. Temporarily check the bottom piece for fit. Trim the excess rubber seal with a box cutter off the windshield. This can also be done later if you wish.

Step #5 - cut off a small piece of the bottom rubber seal (the seal that goes between windshield bottom and scuttle) – Moss p/n 680-470 that goes into the bottom frame channel – the piece should be approx ½” wide. The TRF piece is marked to distinguish front and back so make note of this to not insert backwards later. Don’t worry about shortening it ½”, there’s plenty there.

Step #6 – squirt liquid laundry soap into the lower bow channel full length, and the insert the small piece of ½” wide seal into channel from one end and pull it along to be sure it goes smoothly from one end to the other. If it stops along the way this means there is likely some pieces or small remnants of the old rubber deep under the channel lip that must be removed – check carefully and clean the channel groove with a box cutter or knife or whatever to remove old hardened rubber, until the ½” piece slides freely from aide to side. This may not e visible at first because the old rubber is likely under the channel slot.

Step #7 – screw in L shaped brackets Moss p/n 802-675 onto frame and screw frame bottom (with previously installed rubber seal like in step #3) to U shaped main frame. Check to make sure everything pulls together tight. Because you are working with the frame upside down, have an assistant hold the frame steady from this point on.

Step #8 – now loosen up both sides side of the L bracket so the bottom frame channel is not sitting tight against the side U channel. Start to feed the rubber seal in from one end and pull it across to the other side. Use lots of dish detergent. It will pull easily with some assistance from a set of pliers. Do not try to take a picture of this because your assistant is using both hands to steady the frame and you are using both hands to coax the rubber along. If you want a picture here, you need another assistant.

Step #9 –cut the rubber seal so it is flush with the end of the chrome side frame. It can be a bit longish, as it will get trimmed later, just don’t cut it too short. But it also must not interfere with the fit of the stanchion.

Step #10 – tighten the L brackets back up so you have the 4 sides of the windshield frame tight.

Step # 11 – mount the left and right windshield stanchions (802-690) and tenon plates Moss p/n 680-470 onto the side of the w/s frame – 3 screws – 2 short 7/8”, 1 long 1” each side. Long screw at the bottom where stanchion is thicker. Do NOT use the long screw in the top 2 holes or you WILL crack the windshield!

 

[luke44]

TR3 Windshield Assembly Step by Step – Part 2

Step #12 – turn the windshield onto its front side down and angle-trim the bottom seal edge so it is now a tad shorter at the top than the stanchion.

Step #13 – install the corner finisher (Moss p/n 802-665), covering the rubber seal. Note there is a left and a right to these.

If you break a screw, use a dremel to cut it off flush, center punch remains of screw stuck in stanchion, redrill, and do it again.

Curse loudly. This does not help, but does make you feel a bit better. (grr #%). After fixing screw hole, install corner finisher so it holds the rubber edge down tight.

Step #14 – laying frame flat and steady, check top seal channel for remnants of an old seal as before with small piece of trimmed rubber top seal. It should slide easily side to side with a bit of dish soap as a lubricant.

Step #15 – unlike the lower channel rubber, the upper channel does not have a place to start from one end and pull it across. However, this rubber is much softer and more pliable. Simply insert one edge of the seal into the channel and use a screwdriver to work the other side of the seal into the channel closest to you. Work across the channel slowly fitting the rubber in a bit at a time. Take your time.

Trim carefully at the end so it mates up nice and flush with the top of the stanchion.

Step 16 - Clean up and install windshield mounts onto the car body, and install completed frame assembly using the dzus fasteners.

Step #17 – open your favorite beverage and stand back and admire your work!

 

[NutmegCT]

This is excellent. Bravo on the success.

One thing I noticed on mine: after I finished, the rubber seal (bottom of frame to scuttle) didn't actually touch the scuttle. About 1/4" gap, even tho' I followed the TRF instructions.

Thanks for documenting the step by step.

Tom
(oops - posted before you were finished ...)

 

[luke44]

Hmm. Maybe TRF has changed the seal length. I had a good 1-2" extra on each side. Easy enough to loose measure before you start cutting though.

The small slider test fit piece cut off one end of the seal to check for blockages in the channel before pulling the seal across is critical though. I found several small remnants of old hardened rubber that prevented me from originally pulling the piece across. That was despite the frames being hot tanked and dipped for cleaning before the chroming process. It was the "voila" turning point moment of the whole project, and it's the most important tip in the whole write up.

 

[NutmegCT]

Thanks. The length wasn't the problem. But the lip of that bottom seal is about 1/4" above the scuttle - so there's an air gap.

By the way, I did the same thing you did on that top seal. Had to poke out all the old seal in the channel. I didn't have a re-chrome job - I just replaced the seals. Getting all that top seal out of the channel was a total PITA. I used the "poke the new seal into the channel" technique you used; sliding the top seal into place as others suggested sure didn't work for me.

Tom

 

[luke44]

Thanks. The length wasn't the problem. But the lip of that bottom seal is about 1/4" above the scuttle - so there's an air gap.

By the way, I did the same thing you did on that top seal. Had to poke out all the old seal in the channel. I didn't have a re-chrome job - I just replaced the seals. Getting all that top seal out of the channel was a total PITA. I used the "poke the new seal into the channel" technique you used; sliding the top seal into place as others suggested sure didn't work for me.

Tom

Well, the finished assembly is not on my car yet, so the gap, or lack of, remains to be seen. I do know it's assembled correctly.

The top channel was clean for me so I wasn't removing old rubber- took about 20 minutes to get it all in. The small test piece zoomed right along side to side with some dish detergent so I knew the slot was clean. I don't see how you can slide it in as was suggested to you by others, because there is nowhere to start it.

 

[Tr3aguy]

Nice job....can't wait to see it all assembled// It will be one he&* of a nice ride....

 

[tinman58]

Luke
Great instructions on the work. Everything looks just fantastic!!

 

[Member 10617]

Luke,

A fine example of what is possible on the forum. Bravo! And many thanks.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Thanks Luke. Great Instructions.


Cheers,
Tush

 

[luke44]

Final pic with windshield mounted.

 

[Arrow]

Luke, when I took my windshield apart I had some metal strips in the side channels that I think the stanchion screws go into. I'd estimate they are 1/4 by 1/4 and several inches long. What is their purpose? Secondly are the Moss Corner Finishers 802-665 what you have pictured at step 13. I thought those were post 60,000 and the ones Moss had were pre 60,000. The one you have pictured is what was on my car but one is missing. Mhere did you buy your glass?

 

[RC64]

Bruce...

On msg #2 of your windshield rebuild thread, step 16 shows your mounting plate installed on the body. Did you use a gasket or other type material as a barrier between the mount and the painted surface?

Rick...

 

[TR loco]

Thanks for the very useful guidance! I just completed installing windshield glass for my 1959 TR3A.
The glazing sold by Moss and TRF were both too thick for my windshield. When I measured the thickness of the glass (0.242") and the gap in the u-channel (0.328"), I determined that the glazing thickness needed to be about 0.043", whereas the glazing I purchased was about .061" thick. I could purchase a 100' roll of glazing about .047" thick for $75 from a glass supplier. However, I discovered that the PVC shower liner used as a barrier under tiled shower floors available at Home Depot is 0.041" thick. The material is purchased by the foot and is about 5' wide.
I cut three pieces 5' long by about 2" wide. Two of the pieces went from the center at the top (small gap), turned the corner, and down the vertical sides (gussets at the corners). The third piece went across the bottom. I taped the glazing securely in place. I used a dry silicone lubricant in the u-channels and on the outside of the glazing pieces. I placed the window into the frame and pulled the assembly together using two ratchet-strap tie downs. The straps were vertical and pulled the bottom and top frames towards each other, with the glass in place. This was effective and gave me good control of the process.
Before I trimmed the glazing at the edge of the u-channels I forced sealant between the glass and the inside of the glazing, with the hope of filling any gaps. I did not want sealant between the glazing the the u-channels to make clean up easier for the next poor dude who installs glass.
My hope is that the shower liner material will be durable. It feels very tough and will not be exposed to daylight.

 

[sp53]

Looks great! I want my kidney back.

 

[migmatic]

Darn,....I followed your directions exactly, (they are excellent). But I have run into a major problem, in that the rubber seal I wrapped around the glass is too thick, (I even used lots of soap to try and ease it in!). Now I cant remember where I got it, it was either Moss or TRF. But what was left of my original seal was significantly thinner. Even the picture in your directions show what appears to be a thinner seal material. So I will see if I can find thinner material somewhere and try again.
In the meantime if you have trouble getting the window to seat in the frame,....don't force it, try thinner seal material.

 

[mctriumph]

Mig you are a victim of the AM part that is not quite. The rubber we get these days is awfull.
Believe it or not there is NO correct seal for the trunk of a later 3a or 3b.Steele told me to go fish.
Mad dog

 

[migmatic]

Mig you are a victim of the AM part that is not quite. The rubber we get these days is awfull.
Believe it or not there is NO correct seal for the trunk of a later 3a or 3b.Steele told me to go fish.
Mad dog

Hi Mctriumph!
Yes, there was not one seal on my 3 that I did not have to alter; source another supply or even "craft" something up!
It truly is bad. The seal for my spare tire, (both types from Rimmer and TRF) had to be reduced in thickness by 1/4" to get my spare tire cover to sit flush. The trunk seal (TRF) had such a "V" profile that it would not adhere with anything other than adhesive, and only with 3M! The doors were a miss-match of TRF and some North American Ford product,.. again to get a flush closure for the door!
And for the window seal; I split a bicycle tire innertube, (about the right thickness, but not quite perfect) and wrapped it as per the above. And it still moves around in the frame, (if I force it as I had too to close up a bottom corner gap).
Next to the massive amount of welding I had to do to the body,... the seals have been the most challenging!

Mig

 

[migmatic]

The above instructions by Luke44, were a lifesaver!
I would add that a solution to the screw/grass cracking concern is to, (before installing any glass!), is to assemble one stanchion at a time, including the corner "L" shaped brackets Moss supplies and screw them down tight to the frame. Once you've done that, you look inside the frame and GENTLY measure and mark the end of the screw threads protruding from the 2 threaded captive blocks welded inside the frame. Do the same for the bottom stanchion screw that goes through the "L" bracket. Disassemble everything and VERY carefully cut the excess threads off with a Dremel or hack saw, (put a nut on the screw first and then remove it after cutting and you preserve the threads).
Then trial fit, reassemble the stanchion, and look into the frame to see if any threads stick out; repeat if necessary.
Why the care?
I found that its very easy to destroy the threads, (x threading), and the great thing about doing this is you maximize the thread contact and you guarantee that the screw won't thread beyond the blocks or "L" bracket. Obviously though, make sure that the screws go back in exactly the same hole!
Mig

 

[mctriumph]

Any time you are assembling a thing with fine threaded screws, DO NOT fail to chase the threads
clean with the correct tap. The grief you save will be huge! I just had a wind screen frame that had
one broken off screw, but a nice glass(blame the PO). 3 hours to successfully drill and re tap without
cracking the glass with either the drill or the tap .
Mad dog